Wrekin MC trip to Angelsey (Aug 28th - 30th)

Off to wales (serious I should just move there) but to Angelsey instead of the mainland. Auntie Sally had sorted a campsite near Rhoscolyn (Outdoor Alternative, which is a wicked place to stay) close to the beach (walk) and a short drive to the sea cliffs of Gogarth and Holyhead Mountain.

On the Saturday I drove up with Rach from Birmingham meaning we could stop off in Llangollen. The significance of this that I could stop off here and do my shopping for the weekend. After stocking up on fresh fruit, potatoes, cheese and bread off we set. We climbed at holyhead mountain for the day. Starting on Ramp C Rach seconded a couple of routes while I scrambled round taking photos. Then I jumped on the sharp end and lead P.C.H. (E1 5b). I don't know what it means either. I nearly fluffed it too and backed off the crux. It wasn't the purest ascent either. Either way I manned up after some shaking and whining a little and did the crux (from the slightly easier variant!). Just after the crux I managed to get in my biggest blue hex (well torque nut). Its a lovely feeling placing of gear, it just defines a bomber placement! Then we wondered round the Ramp B and I lead Romulus (VS 5a). It was a good route but a bitter of a one move wonder. The I lead Candlestick (HS 4b) which was an awesome route. Both Sal and Rach seconded me up this and we decided to call it a day.

The Sunday greeted us with poor weather (clouds) which eventually became driving rain. After almost suffering another defeat playing domino's I opted to go to Holyhead and drink tea sitting in a cafe. My plan was that we'd have good weather later on in the afternoon. I was right and we had great weather, well too good weather. Burning sunshine and a 40mph onshore wind which ruled out Gogarth main cliff (after a quick sortie with Mick we decided against it). So ended up at Holyhead again and I took another shot at The Arrow (E3 5c) on Quartz wall. Today was not to the the day and I ended up escaping off onto Tension (VS 4b) which as it happens is a wicked route.

Then we left Holyhead through shear lack of drive to climb and headed back to the campsite. I fancied a walk across the beach and then along the cliffs to explore Rhoscolyn, and possibly get a route in. The walk was pretty nice and easy especially as the sun was starting to set and we arrived at Llawder (the crag) with plenty of time for a route. An added bonus, well a couple really, was that we were not in the wind and the cliff was a walk-in. Me and Mick picked Icarus (HVS 5a) to do, I lead both pitches. P1 was pretty cool as it looked simple until you actually go on it. There was less gear than desired but the climbing was easy above the run-outs. The pitch almost had me off as I tried to place a wire and nearly over-balanced. Never fear as I didn't fall off but finished the pitch a little more gripped than I would have liked.

Pitch 2 was just even better! The climbing was harder but the rock was better and had more friction. It was good bridging and jamming in the crack all the way up, but it was strenuous. In the end I thought I was going to come off, but I hung on and topped out, smiling in the evening sun.

Monday came around and the sun was out. Instead of a day on the sea cliffs we took advantage of the good weather for a day in the mountains. We did Grooved Arete (HVD) on Tryfan's east face. I took p1 which had a thrutch groove to contend with, Rach took p2 and did a great lead, p3 was mine and I went completely off route but manage to get 2 stacked hex's as a piece of gear! Rach then took p4, but slipped off and decided to belay there so I finished it. Rach was a little shook up from slipping off so I took the last two pitches. The p5 was the chequered slab pitch and p6 was a thutchy groove where I places every hex I had (always the sign of a good pitch). We then hightailed it down the descent gully and manged to walk off in the setting evening sun.

All in all it was a good weekend. I manged to get out onto a new crag (Llawder at Rhoscolyn), explored a new area of holyhead mountain and did a classic mountain route on a glorious day out.