So braving a pretty bad weather report off me and Rach set to North Wales. The journey there was a little interesting seeing as V festival traffic meant we too a detour round via Bridgenorth, then due to me jabbering on in the car I missed the turning on the A5 to Llangollen. Never mind eh? well we arrived to find Toaf in his car and we started to snuggle down under the boulders, soon to be joined by Tim, Andy and Matt. Believe me when I sat it was cosy under the boulders.
Saturday came around with good weather actually (we were all expecting it to be quite bad) so after meeting everyone at Pete's we ended up at the base of Idwal Slabs. Me and Rach set off up Hope (VD) with me leading the first pitch and Rach snagging the "twin cracks" second pitch. I then did a variation on the third pitch, taking a blank slab section before Rach lead us to the ledge. We then did Enola Gay (E1 5c). It was a pretty contrived route but good climbing. Both Rach and JD (using a sling as a harness) followed. Then Rach did Groove Above (S) with Matt Snell and Me and Toaf attempted a line not in the guidebook. It was pretty run out, not more than solo line but it went at about 5a. It was alright.
After walking down JD and Toaf spent some time bouldering at the Cromlech as the rest of us ate. Then it was time for a night in the Vaynol, so 6 pints later I stumbled back to my tent. Sunday started with Pete's (again!) and then off to Milestone Buttress.
Andy, Snell and Tim lead the Superdirect (HVS 5a) up until the final pitch and then too the Direct route chimney. Me and Rach did the Direct Route (VD) which was awesome. It's been ages since I've done it, but any climb that require jamming most of the limbs in various crags and salmoning up most of the route is fine by me. Rach also loved it, saying it was the most fun she's had on a day's out climbing. Considering our hangovers we headed back then, thus ending another weekend in wales.
Thursday 26 August 2010
Monday 23 August 2010
A day in wales and a day at skyline...
It's raining, so I've managed to get to my computer and I've also managed to not finish 2 E4's recently, which is very annoying.
It started with a fun day of climbing with Soames in Wales. We headed up for the day and settled on some single pitching in Ogwen valley (Wales has actually got tonnes of single pitch crags, you just need a bit of nouse and a definitive guidebook to find them). We went to a little crag called Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf and started ticking through the routes. First up Soames lead Hollt Lydan (S) with a little 5a start, then I took Bulge (VS 5a). Soames them did Canol (HVS 5a) and I did Llech (HVS 5b). All the climbing was on good rock and pretty much good gear all the way up.
We headed up the crag a little to what looked in the guide book like another slab buttress with a little break at half height. The "little break" was a ledge you could have slept on and gave some broken but fun routes. Soames took A5 (HS) and I lead Olwthio (HVS 5b).
Then I jumped on Leaning Crack (E4 6a), which looked like a really nice little line. We spent a long while looked at the gear before I actually go on it. Eventually I had to. The first few moves where easy and then it became super intense for a short way and I had to place a cam really blind on the crux. I was pumped out and lowered off before jumping back on and having another go. This time I was over the crux, but with my feet wrong! I should have had them the other way around and it would all have been gravy baby but nope. As I made a really balancy move for a good hold, my feet slipped off and down I went... and out came my cam and one of the nuts beneath it. I slid down the slab pretty hard before landing with Soames (airborn at this point) about a foot off the floor.
Pretty bumped and scraped I stumbled away from the crag, humbled but happy.
Night passes and I headed up to skyline with Rach with nothing in mind. I guess my mind had other things planned and I got it into my head to try Wings of Unreason (E4 6a). Off we set with a pad, trad rack and a full flask of coffee. The wind was up and we had managed to dodge the worst of the rain by the time we got to the bottom of the route, not with me sliding leg first down a gully. It took me a while to crack the first move/sequence and I tried it a couple of times down climbing each time to reassess. Eventually I committed myself to it (accidentally) and found myself above a irreversable move. So onward and upward.
I got a good cam in a low pocket slightly off route and then made the middle pockets and the final piece of gear. From he I rocked into the pocket and ditched the rest of my gear. And here is pretty much where I stayed. I couldn't bring myself to do the last move. Rach recons I spent about 2 hours on these ledges trying to convince myself to make the final move.
[BETA ALERT]
I'll point out that the final move is a dyno (well for me at least). It should have been pretty simple as it's not very far, but I didn't have it in my. Talk about no having your head in gear!
And thus ended our jaunt to skyline as I backed off sheepishly. It's still been an awesome couple of days as climbing isn't about how many grades you tick off or how hard you climbing, but about having the most fun, and for me finding out as much as you can about yourself.
I'll have to go back and do Wings of Unreason though.
It started with a fun day of climbing with Soames in Wales. We headed up for the day and settled on some single pitching in Ogwen valley (Wales has actually got tonnes of single pitch crags, you just need a bit of nouse and a definitive guidebook to find them). We went to a little crag called Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf and started ticking through the routes. First up Soames lead Hollt Lydan (S) with a little 5a start, then I took Bulge (VS 5a). Soames them did Canol (HVS 5a) and I did Llech (HVS 5b). All the climbing was on good rock and pretty much good gear all the way up.
We headed up the crag a little to what looked in the guide book like another slab buttress with a little break at half height. The "little break" was a ledge you could have slept on and gave some broken but fun routes. Soames took A5 (HS) and I lead Olwthio (HVS 5b).
Then I jumped on Leaning Crack (E4 6a), which looked like a really nice little line. We spent a long while looked at the gear before I actually go on it. Eventually I had to. The first few moves where easy and then it became super intense for a short way and I had to place a cam really blind on the crux. I was pumped out and lowered off before jumping back on and having another go. This time I was over the crux, but with my feet wrong! I should have had them the other way around and it would all have been gravy baby but nope. As I made a really balancy move for a good hold, my feet slipped off and down I went... and out came my cam and one of the nuts beneath it. I slid down the slab pretty hard before landing with Soames (airborn at this point) about a foot off the floor.
Pretty bumped and scraped I stumbled away from the crag, humbled but happy.
Night passes and I headed up to skyline with Rach with nothing in mind. I guess my mind had other things planned and I got it into my head to try Wings of Unreason (E4 6a). Off we set with a pad, trad rack and a full flask of coffee. The wind was up and we had managed to dodge the worst of the rain by the time we got to the bottom of the route, not with me sliding leg first down a gully. It took me a while to crack the first move/sequence and I tried it a couple of times down climbing each time to reassess. Eventually I committed myself to it (accidentally) and found myself above a irreversable move. So onward and upward.
I got a good cam in a low pocket slightly off route and then made the middle pockets and the final piece of gear. From he I rocked into the pocket and ditched the rest of my gear. And here is pretty much where I stayed. I couldn't bring myself to do the last move. Rach recons I spent about 2 hours on these ledges trying to convince myself to make the final move.
[BETA ALERT]
I'll point out that the final move is a dyno (well for me at least). It should have been pretty simple as it's not very far, but I didn't have it in my. Talk about no having your head in gear!
And thus ended our jaunt to skyline as I backed off sheepishly. It's still been an awesome couple of days as climbing isn't about how many grades you tick off or how hard you climbing, but about having the most fun, and for me finding out as much as you can about yourself.
I'll have to go back and do Wings of Unreason though.
Saturday 14 August 2010
Cornwall, a southern adventure
Been kicking it in Cornwall for the past few days. I say cornwall but what I mean in Devon, Cornwall and Avon. Me, Sid and Rach drove down after picking up Rach from work at like 2230 on the monday night, meaning we had a nice arrival time of 3am, and to top it off it was pelting down with rain!
The Tuesday came around proper and it was still pretty wet. We made a break for the nearest foodery (ASDA) and ended up in the town of Bude. The rain held off long enough for us to get out for a walk along the beach. Then it cleared up and we made for Compass point but although the weather had cleared up sadly the tide was rapidly coming in. This was the first time this trip the tide was a problem for us. Instead Rachel (as a sea-faring hobbit) offered to teach me and Sid how to row, so we hired a boat and took it out on Bude canal whilst me and Sid learned to master the ocean, or try at least.
Wednesday was a nice bright sunny day so off we went to Baggy Point (Devon). We'd planned to climb in both Scrattling Zawn and Promontary Cliffs but the tide was massive and quick so we headed staright to Scrattling Zawn. This was Sid's first sea cliff climbing experience. We got down to the area we had decided to climb in and Rach had Sid's eyes lit up when he saw Scrattling Crack (VD). As he was worried about building a belay at the top f the route I said I'd jug back up the abseil rope and meet him at the top. So as he climbed up, I set off up the ab rope.
Sid had no problems leading the crack and topped out just fine. After a while we found enough anchors for him to construct a decent belay out of and up cam Rach. Not bad for Sid's 2nd lead. We had a spot of bread and cheese for lunch before another rapid descent down the abseil rope so I could get on Chiounard's Yard 1 (HVS 5a). I'm not a great big fan of the rockfax guidebooks as they just feel a little off to me, but the little symbol for this climb was "fluttery". I'd definatly say it was fluttery climbing because I have 6 pieces of gear in for the whole 40 metre route! Three of these were bomber, but all at or above half height of the route. Either way the route was pretty fantastic on compact sandstone. It had a few loose holds (both me and Rach pulled one off) and was beautifully exposed. I loved it, so did Rach and Sid.
With the tide hot on our tails be decided not to abseil back in but take a walk back to Croyde bay, foraging blackberries so Rach could make some jam on the way.
Thursday and off we set to Vicarage Cliff. The weather was looking a little overcast, but it didn't really threaten to rain. We parked up at the Tea Room and dashed off to the cliff. Alas us being so eager hadn't taken into account that the tide would be in. We had a choice of sitting and waiting staring out into the ocean, or sitting and waiting in the tea room. I think you can see that the choice was clear, so me and sid enjoyed a nice pot of tea and a warm scone with clotted cream, while Rach had coffee and coffee cake!
Off to the crag we went, take two! The walk in for Vicarage cliff is a little interesting. Finding it is damn awkward as the guidebook isn't too clear on where the descent is. It was only really by chance that I'd spotted the guiderope from the cliff top before that we found it. The descent has a couple of old pieces of cord to act as guideropes that end in a giant orange bouy, probably so you can see the damn thing when your running back across the beach from the tide!
Sid geared up for Tombstone (S 4a), his third lead and without any means for me to get to the top and check his belay, he was flying solo on this one. He lead it really well, with pretty much good gear all the way up. On the crux I was so nervous that his foot would slip off I actually almost couldn't watch, but he did it and was beaming with relief when he got to the top. I seconded this and concluded that it was not easy at all, so good effort Sid.
I then jumped on Harpoon (E2 5b). This was serious climbing, all about 5b on pretty bad gear. There was nothing larger than a size 3 nut, and mostly it was rusty old pegs. Having said that I got to place my tiny little yellow zero cam, something I've not really placed much and it was a crucial runner (thought it did reduce my finger hole to a mono in the process). The route itself wandered up the slab, using a little arete for part of it but it was mainly smearing for the feet and crimps and two/one finger pockets/edges for the hands. It was a great experience climbing something that you couldn't really afford to fall off. It's just something I haven't done for a while.
We then bugged out as the tide was coming in again and scrambled back up the dire walk-in.
Are final day in Cornwall (or was it Devon?) we packed up all the tentage and camping equipement and set off home early, but with a plan. Rach had not got to lead anything this trip os far so we where heading to Avon gorge on the way back. If we'd staying in Cornwall we'd never have got any climbing done because of the tides anyway. We ended up on The Arete (VD). Rach ran both pitch 1 & 2 together and sid took the second pitch, while I came along as a passanger (or and Uncle Rob would call it "technical support") and dutifully carried up a bad full of the food. The ledge that the route finishes on is called lunchtime ledge anyway so it had to be done! After a spot of lunch we abseiled off and got back in the car for the final journey home.
All in all it was a pretty cool trip down south. I've never really climbed in Devon before or along the Culm Coast so it was awesome to get on some sandstone like that. We took my camera and spent the whole trip filming everything with could so I've been trying to put it all together in a short film. I'll post it on here when I can!
The Tuesday came around proper and it was still pretty wet. We made a break for the nearest foodery (ASDA) and ended up in the town of Bude. The rain held off long enough for us to get out for a walk along the beach. Then it cleared up and we made for Compass point but although the weather had cleared up sadly the tide was rapidly coming in. This was the first time this trip the tide was a problem for us. Instead Rachel (as a sea-faring hobbit) offered to teach me and Sid how to row, so we hired a boat and took it out on Bude canal whilst me and Sid learned to master the ocean, or try at least.
Wednesday was a nice bright sunny day so off we went to Baggy Point (Devon). We'd planned to climb in both Scrattling Zawn and Promontary Cliffs but the tide was massive and quick so we headed staright to Scrattling Zawn. This was Sid's first sea cliff climbing experience. We got down to the area we had decided to climb in and Rach had Sid's eyes lit up when he saw Scrattling Crack (VD). As he was worried about building a belay at the top f the route I said I'd jug back up the abseil rope and meet him at the top. So as he climbed up, I set off up the ab rope.
Sid had no problems leading the crack and topped out just fine. After a while we found enough anchors for him to construct a decent belay out of and up cam Rach. Not bad for Sid's 2nd lead. We had a spot of bread and cheese for lunch before another rapid descent down the abseil rope so I could get on Chiounard's Yard 1 (HVS 5a). I'm not a great big fan of the rockfax guidebooks as they just feel a little off to me, but the little symbol for this climb was "fluttery". I'd definatly say it was fluttery climbing because I have 6 pieces of gear in for the whole 40 metre route! Three of these were bomber, but all at or above half height of the route. Either way the route was pretty fantastic on compact sandstone. It had a few loose holds (both me and Rach pulled one off) and was beautifully exposed. I loved it, so did Rach and Sid.
With the tide hot on our tails be decided not to abseil back in but take a walk back to Croyde bay, foraging blackberries so Rach could make some jam on the way.
Thursday and off we set to Vicarage Cliff. The weather was looking a little overcast, but it didn't really threaten to rain. We parked up at the Tea Room and dashed off to the cliff. Alas us being so eager hadn't taken into account that the tide would be in. We had a choice of sitting and waiting staring out into the ocean, or sitting and waiting in the tea room. I think you can see that the choice was clear, so me and sid enjoyed a nice pot of tea and a warm scone with clotted cream, while Rach had coffee and coffee cake!
Off to the crag we went, take two! The walk in for Vicarage cliff is a little interesting. Finding it is damn awkward as the guidebook isn't too clear on where the descent is. It was only really by chance that I'd spotted the guiderope from the cliff top before that we found it. The descent has a couple of old pieces of cord to act as guideropes that end in a giant orange bouy, probably so you can see the damn thing when your running back across the beach from the tide!
Sid geared up for Tombstone (S 4a), his third lead and without any means for me to get to the top and check his belay, he was flying solo on this one. He lead it really well, with pretty much good gear all the way up. On the crux I was so nervous that his foot would slip off I actually almost couldn't watch, but he did it and was beaming with relief when he got to the top. I seconded this and concluded that it was not easy at all, so good effort Sid.
I then jumped on Harpoon (E2 5b). This was serious climbing, all about 5b on pretty bad gear. There was nothing larger than a size 3 nut, and mostly it was rusty old pegs. Having said that I got to place my tiny little yellow zero cam, something I've not really placed much and it was a crucial runner (thought it did reduce my finger hole to a mono in the process). The route itself wandered up the slab, using a little arete for part of it but it was mainly smearing for the feet and crimps and two/one finger pockets/edges for the hands. It was a great experience climbing something that you couldn't really afford to fall off. It's just something I haven't done for a while.
We then bugged out as the tide was coming in again and scrambled back up the dire walk-in.
Are final day in Cornwall (or was it Devon?) we packed up all the tentage and camping equipement and set off home early, but with a plan. Rach had not got to lead anything this trip os far so we where heading to Avon gorge on the way back. If we'd staying in Cornwall we'd never have got any climbing done because of the tides anyway. We ended up on The Arete (VD). Rach ran both pitch 1 & 2 together and sid took the second pitch, while I came along as a passanger (or and Uncle Rob would call it "technical support") and dutifully carried up a bad full of the food. The ledge that the route finishes on is called lunchtime ledge anyway so it had to be done! After a spot of lunch we abseiled off and got back in the car for the final journey home.
All in all it was a pretty cool trip down south. I've never really climbed in Devon before or along the Culm Coast so it was awesome to get on some sandstone like that. We took my camera and spent the whole trip filming everything with could so I've been trying to put it all together in a short film. I'll post it on here when I can!
Tuesday 3 August 2010
A long over due post...
It’s been a long time since I’ve actually posted anything. I’m sat in Redpoint Climbing Centre after getting changed out the boot of my car (new car, which I’ll get to later). I’m on 1gram of something called Naproxen (which will give me stomach ulcers among other things if I don’t take them with food) for tendon/ligament and muscle damage in my thigh. I’m also toting a black eye, the relic of a vicious trampoline/ paddling pool/ bouncy castle incident (yes, alcohol was involved and no, it wasn’t malicious).
I’d love to say I’ve been climbing super hard in excellent weather, but the weathers been bad and I’ve not been out climbing as much as I’d like. I’ve been filling my time with other things…
I’ve brought a new car. Jess (tiny little red 1litre polo) which has served me, and all my friends above and beyond the call of duty over the last 3-4 years is suffering. Her little 1litre engine cannot cope with 35000 miles a year, mostly full of kit and people on the motorway. She’s been through a lot (sliding off the road in
I’ll try and fill in on what climbing I’ve been up to recently in the next few posts…
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