Sunday, 6 September 2009

A hard day on skyline...

I guess it all started the night before. The usual took place, down the pub talking about climbing with friends then we busted out the climbing DVDs to watch. The one that happened to be on was "Hard Grit" which was put on after Laura proclaimed that cold haul wasn't "real" climbing. She'll learn one day!. I watched Hard Grit and I have to say I wasn't that impressed. Now this may be because I'm now spoilt with the likes of Onsite, Psyche, Sharp End and First Ascent etc. I'll put it down to that, but it was still cool to see how the history of hard climbing in the peak developed. To be honest I'm not much of a grit fanatic, I'd rather be on mountain routes or hanging around at Gogarth, but its still where I first started climbing.

We headed out to skyline today. I spent a lot of time at the Roaches over the years, seeing as I lived in Stoke and its not far away, but its getting a little old going to that same place all the time. I've started trying to find the out of the way and none too trodden crags, hence skyline for the day. With most of the routes being under 10 metres it also meant we could get on a lot of routes. After a late start (due to a fit of film watching the night before; Hard Grit, Psyche and then Snatch) we set out. Me, Andy, Laura and someone I have not climbed with call Gaz. Turned out that he's a good climber and safe as houses.

After parking the other end (instead of at the Roaches car park) under Andy's instruction we wandered in slowly trying to find some rock. Our first port of call was Alpha Buttress and after some slow gearing up I got on 39th Step (E2 6a). I'm not entirely sure why I decided to jump on a 6a first thing, especially seeing as I've only lead two ever. It was only short and well protected but I found it seriously hard. The final moves (all 6a) were on frictiony slopey holds with nothing good for the hands. I ended up padding up with my left hand and reaching high with my right and still being off the good hold by a few inched. After carefully moving my feet up again, I slapped up for it and pulled up over. I topped out being congratulated by Gaz and Laura, and lolled onto the floor disregarding my helmet and enjoying being on flat ground.

What a start to the day! The line was pretty compelling (groove then blank slab) but I honestly didn't think I'd actually get up it. I started eyeing up a next objective as soon as I got hold of a guide book. Me and Laura did Days Gone By (S 4b) whilst Andy and Gaz did Breakfast Problem (VD). Back down at the bags again I started looking at San Melas. At E3 5c it was technically easier than the first route, but a little neckier. There was only cams for the break at half height and side runner poked in at the tip of my reach. I reckoned that I could do it so I tied on and had a belay from Gaz.

The lower slab had and awesome section of pubble pulling to establish yourself at the break. Here I crammed in 3 cams and set about poking in a high side runner. I mantled into the break and then found the line and the moves I needed to make. The first move was pure friction, standing there making sure I had enough rubber in contact to say on. I could see the next move which required a difficult rockover on to a high slopey hold. With virtually nothing for my hands I went up and tried the move and backed off to the break. This happened a few times until another climber arrived, assured me I was on the right track and offered the advise of the pebble on the right. I found this pebble useless but the help was nice. Finally I psyched myself up enough to bear down on my right foot and rock over on it. Glancing back I could see the fall I would take, not something I wanted to happen. I found a massive pebble (size of a small marble) and pulled up on this like it was a lifeline. The gradient now had lessened making the foot work eaiser and I topped out quickly. This was definatley scarier than the first route.

When headed over to meet some friends at the Upper Tier then, and I managed Bachelors Buttress (VS 4b) before we got rained off the crag. Being Rained off meant only one thing and I enjoyed my Half pint in the Rock Inn as we discussed the day and planned many another adventure.

All in all I've been climbing on grit for the best part of two weeks now. Like I've already said I'm not its biggest fan, but this day out at skyline in the cold crisp air as got me really worked up for some winter grit climbing. Now I'm stuck back at school I can't wait to get back out...

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