A Dream of White Horses

Probably the most famous sea cliff climb in England, and definitely one of the most iconic images in climbing. I had the opportunity to do it this summer and I have to say I didn't jump at the chance, well sort of. Here is how it happened...

We went to Tree-mud-rock for the weekend and after our first day where me and Rob did Merlin (I've already blogged this see:Tree-Mud-Rock). Anyway Me and Rob went to track down the Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog. Failing to arrive before it closed, we set out to find some Purple Moose ale instead. We ended up in a pub and we were happily enjoying some ale when the rest of our party called to ask where we were. So into to car, pick them up and then straight back to the golden fleece for a nights drinking. Eventually everyone turned up and we didn't leave till go knows when leaving both cars in Tremadog intending to pick them up in the morning. Needless to say it was a good night.

So now cut forward to the morning. Ideas are being thrown around and Stewie fancies doing "Dream..." this weekend. Rob and Toaf won't go to Gogarth, they don't like it. Tim's staying with Toaf and climbing with him so Tom stays as well. I guess I could claim I was forced into it, but that would be unfair I'd even offered to drive. So Me, Stewie and Soames headed off in the car to Gogarth.

Now I'll admit I was feeling hungover. A nights drinking had taken its toll on me and I was absolutely bricking it about doing Dream of White Horses. It had already been decided that I would take the final Traverse pitch. I've a great skill of fall off classic routes and tend to get very nervous about doing them. This was serious. I mean there was ocean, we couldn't just abseil off and walk out, once we were in we were committed. Even now I can remember that horrible apprehensive feeling I had.

We walked in following Soames happy little gait. The guy really loves Gogarth. Me and Stewie plodded on solemnly behind, me still trying to recovered from my hangover and downing pepsi like no bodies business. Eventually the little dwarf paused and start looking around over the edge. Guidebooks out, both me and Soames studied them and tried to work out where we were and how to get to the route. Eventually He realised his mistake scampered off merrily (he really is like a happy little hobbit sometimes). We followed him down.

I remember it coming into view. Jesus Christ this cliff looked big. Not only did it look big but steep. Other than the obvious weaknesses of Rumble and Wen, it just looked steep, hold less and impassible. I refused to climb, just sat there and refused. We sat and hashed out where the route was and as I looked closer I could see cracks and ledges to follow, but it still just looked so steep. I told Stewie and Soames I wasn't climbing, not today, not on this hangover, not this route. I could imagine something bad happening. They stared back at me in disbelief. They know I climb hard stupid routes and I was backing away from this. Soames started to tell me it was slabby and the climbing easy, well within my grade. I told them I wasn't going to be bullied into it.

I sat with my hood up, sheltering from the wind, listening to the waves crashing at the base of the crag. I sat there having a mental battle with myself about it. Stewie really wanted to do it and being honest so did I. Eventually Soames asked if I was serious about not doing it. Decision time. I turned around and before I could engage my brain my mouth had blurted out:

"bloody hell, lets get it over with then"

And that was it. My head had somehow screwed itself back on. We geared up quickly took the ropes and set out to the abseil point. Soames decided not to climb and to watch us instead to make sure we were ok. Stewie left me to rig the abseil but he headed down to the first ledge. We didn't do the first pitch as the sea was too rough and I've a fear of getting washed off (as it almost happened at Castell Helen). So we started one pitch up. I ended up leading the first pitch of about 4c- climbing. I found the route winding down then up the cliff on a big traverse. Eventually I belayed where it crossed the line of Wen. I was so absorbed in the climbing at this point that I almost forgot to belay. I set myself 3 good anchors and hung above the ocean. After yelling I was safe Stewie started over to join me and I tried to keep the ropes tidy in the wind.

Stewie had the most technical pitch of climbing on the route (4c+) and he climbed it in great style. I watched him moving away and gradually shifted my position trying to find something that was comfortable, or would at least take the weight off some part of me. After what seemed like and age, and two dead feet he shouted across he was safe. The wind did a good job of carrying his words away for him but he smiled and gave me a thumbs up so I took him off.

I seconded badly I think. I know I didn't climb with pitch well, expecting it to be as easy as the first pitch. I followed the wandering line up and them down to stewie belay and them joined him hanging there to sort out the gear. We swapped gear and runners and I confessed fears of this pitch. Even looking at it now, littered with chalked up holds from previous parties I didn't think I could do it. I also kept looking down and the floor. Well I say floor but the final pitch doesn't cover any floor, there is just some rock and then ocean. As the sea swells the arch fills up with water and white topped waves crash and break beneath us. I knew if I fell off it would be dangling in space for me, dangling above crashing white horses.

Seeing as it was my pitch and somewhere along the line I'd actually offered to take it I could hardly back down. Anyway some pride was at stake as I knew I wouldn't live it down off Soames and Stew.

The first move was the hardest, and with the least gear. I though at the time, "sod, if this is what the starts like, whats the rest of it like?". Its not though. It eased off, but I'm not saying it was easy and there tonnes of gear. Saying that I should have placed more for Stew. The climbing differs so much from the first slabby pitches to a gymnastic style pulling on crimps and undercuts and then laying away to reach a good hold and a rest. I topped out and looked back along my route. For some reason I was surprised to see Stewie behind me so I yelled I was safe and brought him over.

I know its cliched on such a classic route, but the weight of history added so much to this climb. Its only my 4th climb at Gogarth and something that will always stay with me. Any climb which makes you doubt yourself so much and then allows you to pick your way though it building yourself back but is immense. Gogarth is hard, steep, committing and it scares me, doesn't stop me loving it though.

Anyway I'm going back in a few weeks to do Wen...