Different file types!

Seriously! I've got a load of videos from the weekend that need simple things doing to them like rotating 90 degrees and playing back to back. All this simple stuff can be done in Windows Movie Maker. However there is a catch. Laura's camera records things in Quicktime movie file which surprise surprise doesn't work on Microsoft based software! So to do a simple job like rotate a video 90 degrees I have to find a file converter program. I don't particularly want to pay $29 for a program that's going to be used once in a blue moon either!

Why can all these computer companies just get along? I mean would it kill them to let Quicktime files playable in Windows Movie Maker...

I hate jobs that appear simple but then turn out to be uber-complicated!

The Peak you say?

Another lazy weekend on some limestone and grit. Peak rock this time not Yorkshire stuff. Sunday was always going to be the Roaches as there was suposed to be a freshers meet for the SUMC (Staffs Uni Mountaineering Club). It turned out that there were no freshers which was alright seeing as it wasn't an official club trip anyway. Saturday Me, Dan, Prescott and Laura were heading to Stoney Middleton. This was the plan before Dan went out Friday night and we couldn't contact him on the Saturday morning. Never fear! armed with the guidebook and the car the three of us set off arguing about where to go. This debate banded on between Stoney, Water-cum-jolly and god know where else while we stopped off in Buxton so Laura could finally pick up a helmet.
I'm not sure how we decided on Staden Quarry in the end. It just so happened that Prescott mentioned it and we'd just driven past the turning. A quick U-turn and we were back on track. As access is apparently a bit of an issue at Staden we parked out of the way. I messed up on the walk in taking us under one fence meaning we had to back under it again to get on the right path, oops. But what a place! A little quarry tucked away with some great looking faces to climb on. We'd headed straight over to "Bicycle Repair Man" without realising it. Prescott had been going on about this route as it was on his to do list and we just so happened to have set up beneath it.

It seemed like the obvious route to do as our first of the day. E1 5b on slightly polished Limestone was going to be hard but I reckoned it could do it. This turned out to almost be not the case! I was done over twice by the polish (although I blame wearing my new rock boots). All the way up the gear great although I found it helped to have some micro cams with me (sizes metolius 0 & 00). The middle second turned out to be supertechnical climbing with lots on short moves on small edges an pockets. I was annoyed I fell off, but was happy with the route. Its such a good climb at the end of the day.

Next on the cards was Laura's lead. Both her and Prescott wanted to do "Bimbo the Exploding Lorry's Drivers Glutch Eliminate" (HS 4b). Laura got the drop on him and set off up the crack. She climbed it really well, not running it out and placing all her gear excellently. I was worried we were about to have a magic moment about half height but she pulled it together and made it up. I seconded this and was surprised by how hard I found it. I guess my head is different from leading to seconding. All in all not bad for her first HS.

Prescott by this time had been playing around on "Hammer into Anvil" graded E3 6a in our rockfax guidebook. After some initial scepticism about the route I bouldered the start and looked for the protection. There was an awesome size 5 wire. This meant that you were protected while you placed a nest of RPs and micro nuts which I did carefully trying to get maximum contact with each placement. I then reached up and skyhooked a bad edge to better protect the crux. I was very worried about a ground fall if I messed up and we agreed the skyhook was fair play seeing as it was in such a bad placement. In the end it didn't matter because I knocked it off.

So I went for it (after an initial slip and regaining my position). Cranking up on a small polished crimp to reach up for a bad sloping handhold. Here I tried to place my feet on something that would hold and I found two tiny edges but this gave enough to get my hand on the other bad slopey handhold. I could see the massive crimp that would gave me enough to pull up on but my feet popped off at this point. Laura was filming the whole thing and everyone's had a right laugh at me floundering on the crux realising I couldn't down climb. Somehow I got purchase enough with my feet to push up and get the hold, and the rest was plain sailing.

Spurred on (or over-confident) we took a look at "telescopic reach" another E3 6a. I tried the start and placed a high side runner before looking for more protection. As it happened I totally buggered up and ended up unable to down-climb so just carried on up what was "Swan Song" (E1 5b) instead. This turned out to be a gem of a route again with a really technical crux involving a 2 fingered pocket/side pull. This was a great climb however the gear was not to be desired. The crux was protected by a host of small wires, not all of which were great. I planned not to fall off and manged it. For a route I had not really considered doing I'm glad I ended up on it as I would have missed out otherwise.

With 4 routes under my belt now I took a look at Joint Effort (HVS 5b) another one of the crag classics. Prescott had also mentioned doing this route on the way in as well, but he wasn't up for leading anything. I like HVS 5b as a grade. I usually means loads of gear and a short crux. As it happened the crux was low down on well polished limestone, but with good wires to protect you. It involved the same technical small moves climbing as the others. The upper section can't have been more than 4c and took gear so readily I had to stop myself placing everything on my rack! Laura came up this first with a bit of difficulty on the crux. By the time she was up I was freezing so Chris sent up a jacket for be before he came up. He had a bit of trouble on the crux as well and it really annoyed him which was a shame. He said he was done for the day, but seeing at there was light left Me and Laura fitted in 1 more climb, this was Suscipiat (VS 4c) to finish the day on.

Suscipiat was a great route, similar to Joint Effort with a low crux only it wasn't protected by as good gear. I had no problems on it apart from going a little off route. It turned out to be a really engaging route and again I had to stop myself placing my whole rack. Laura seconded it and enjoyed it loads too and we walked off in the fading evening sun. The end of a good day on quarried peak limestone.

We met up with Dan in the evening and went for some food. Needless to say he looked a little worse for wear still being horrendously hungover. He agreed to go climbing at the Roaches on Sunday and we planned a bunch of routes to do. Namely he wanted to get on the Sloth. I also managed to bite a fork (over-enthusiastically eating a piece of fish) which has left me with a very sensitive front tooth.

Me and Laura arrived slightly later than everyone else to the Roaches. The weather was a bit atmospheric as it was still early and the upper tier was wreathed in cloud. We'd arrived late enough to find Dan below the crux on the Sloth. In the end I think he made a good decision not to lead it. I could see the water dripping down on him and it would have made it one hell of a difficult struggle. He can always go back. As he was finishing pedestal route, I went to do Eugene's Axe (E2 5c). The start was probably the hardest part with the arete not going so well. I think I went off route, but it was because I placed a cam at the tip of my reach and end up over camming it and needed to remove it. By the time I was on the crux Dan had arrived and took over belaying. I nipped up a few times and then down climbed (annoying slipping off once as I was down climb). Eventually spurred on by a small crowd I actually committed to the move. It instantly eased up and I made it to the top with no problems. This is definitely one to keep going back to do.

From here I figured it was Dan's lead and we headed towards Commander Energy (E2 5c) another route that Dan had wanted to do. Worcester Uni mountaineering club were camped out down the bottom, top roping a load of routes but we carried on anyway. Dan climbed it well, nipping up the crux after a bit of up and down climbing before he committed himself. Thankfully there is loads of gear after it so he placed a nest and heel/toe hooked his way onto the shelf/ledge/lip. The final section is a rounded arete you have to layback up, its always described as a boulder problem in the sky. Dan sent this with ease and brought me up. He offered to let me lead it, but I declined wanting to second him up instead.

I narrowly escaped from chalkstorm as well. I'd half jokingly mentioned to Dan that I'd lead it, but thankfully there was someone already gearing up for it at the bottom. Instead we headed off for Elegy (E2 5c). As it happened there was someone on it, and on Smear Test meaning so we'd need another objective. As it turned out the Swan (E3 5c) was free and I jumped on it. Its got a difficult (well very difficult) traverse with almost no gear. There is high gear to start with, but then there is none on the traverse. This can be solved by having 2 belayers; one on the gear and one far right to check your swing if you fall off. So Andy and Dan agreed to belay me. Going up the the traverse and placing the high gear was ok. Moving out across the traverse is where I hit on some problems. I think I got my feet wrong to say the least as I found myself clinging to pebbles and then... I was off. This happened 4 times in all before I accepted defeat and admitted it was beyond me. I guess sometimes you have to push yourself to failing, I mean how awesome would it have been it I had managed it?

Pretty much everyone had to go by this time, save for Me, Andy and Laura. I should have mentioned that Andy was feeling ill and had resigned himself to belaying all day so I jumped on Elegy as it was finally free. The start of Elegy is taken by the Buldger (VS 4c) one of the greatest struggles I've ever had getting up a climb. This time I managed it with relative ease (and an vicious arm-bar). From here with some high (ish) gear you move out across the slab taking a rising break before a committing finish. The move onto the slab is awkward and scary but it was awesome when I manged to do it. From here you move out on smears till you can get some good gear in. By now my one rope was dragging somewhat awful, almost to the point that I was considering ditching it. Thankfully my fear of taking a big whipper on a single half rope stopped me (I'm sure it would have been alright, just would have had to replace the rope). The final piece of gear sounded awfully hollow when I placed it, but I somehow knew I wouldn't be needing it and sent off up the slab. I'd have given the slab hard 5a/5b and it gets slightly harder before the finish. I was pretty nervous being honest as I was in my new shoes and they still had loads of edging rather than a nice soft supple sole for smearing. In the end I just committed myself and made the moves.

What an end to a good weekends climbing really. Elegy was the route I was thinking about all Friday and I could just imagine that final slab. Was a real treat to finally get on it, especially after falling off The Swan and knocking my confidence. I'm absolutely knackered from this weekend though and could really do with a weekend off at some point... like that's ever going to happen!

I'll update this with some videos if I can ever convert the files!

Getting Spanked...

Dan was going to Yorkshire this weekend. I've never been to Yorkshire, so after a bit of deliberating we decided to head up with Dan (previously we were going to the lakes). I guess the weekend really started on the Friday night with a fit of bouldering at newport for the evening. We had turned up on their 6 month anniversary since opening so there was a bit of a party atmosphere. Eventually we all gathered round to watch (and get involved with) a problem on a slightly overhanging wall. It involved a short pop-dyno to grasp a less than excellent hold. I made it a few times before I finally stuck it, then promptly fell off before I could make the next move. After much watching other and egging each other on I finally made a ground up ascent of it. Just this problem alone made my evening.

A cup of tea in beer tankard started my day on Saturday. I'd had a "few" beers the night before after bouldering and then stayed up watching climbing films (psyche, onsight and bits of "the climb") before realising; 1) I'd sobered up and 2) it was 5am so time for bed. When I woke back up 6am I was really annoyed. So following a brew, remnants of last nights pizza and early an morning bout of drum'n'bass from Toaf we set off to Yorkshire and Almscliffe. I had not got any guide books and didn't know where we were going to camp that night (I'd even not brought my bivi bag). All in all this was going to be a pretty weird weekend.

So we headed to Almscliffe on the first day as it had been recommended as the best gritstone climbing in Yorkshire. It stood proudly out of its little outcrop and we could see the steep walls and overhangs grinning menacingly. Today I knew I was losing skin. On the walk in Dan was talking about "Great Western". We wondered around for ages trying to orientate ourselves and actually find it, eventually locating it and the five star finish. This was Dan's route so I set up to belay and let him pillage my rack for whatever he needed. The line it follows a corner crack to hand traverse then pulling through to below the roof, from here you either take the crack above direct or traverse back right for the five star finish. It looked steep to say the least.

So Dan got on it, moving quickly up the groove looking really strong. I was urging him on. He got into a little difficulty as he placed his final piece before he set out over the traverse. I could see he was getting pumped out. I'd forgot how nerve wracking belaying is when someone is on a hard lead. Dan started out acorss the traverse with his feet skittering off. He was complaining about being really pumped and I kept yelling for him to hang on. Half way across he managed to to get in another cam on the blue rope. He got to the up groove and fought like a buggary to get a decent hand jam in so he could rest. All I could do was watch and hope he would sink that jam, but he couldn't. "I'm coming off" he yelled. He took a big swing but caught him and he lowered off. I've never seen his arms so pumped.

We took on some water, cheese and jumpers. Dan decided he would have another go. By now Claire had joined us and took up the mantle of camera girl. As soon as he got back on I could see he was close to pumping out. I was hoping he would keep it together and he moved out across the traverse. I thought he got the jam in as he hung around long enough to get in a piece of gear, but then he yelled again. He got it clipped and fell off. Dan was done, his arms about to explode. It was a great effort though.

He asked if I wanted to finish the lead and I tied on, racked up and set off. I fancied a crack at the 5 star finish but after watching Dan I was unsure of whether I would make it. I lay backed the corner crack, then set out across the traverse to the exit groove. I was standing on pebbles for the traverse and was almost off then one of them snapped away. I found a jam (in the groove), which hurt like hell but was solid enough to rest on and from here I squeezed in a size 4 above my head. My left arm was completely pumped out, but my right was ok so I moved up and place some more cams. I had to kick out the size 4 to prevent rope drag before the finish.

I could hear Dan yelling "come on man, gass it, gass it! make Didier proud! come on..." I couldn't get a decent jam so cranked up on my left arm. I could feel myself slipping out and just went for the break. I wasn't good and my jam was slipping out. I power-squeeked majorly but some how stayed on pulled up over. Thank god it was over.

We abseiled to remove the gear saving a ground up ascent for Dan at a later date. We jumped on Z climb as Toaf had lead it and nobody could second it. We wanted to see whats all the fuss was about seeing as it was graded VS 4c. Toaf had regraded it at HVS 5a, but then again he doesn't like jamming which this route involved. Almost a classic case of grading something harder because you lack in technique. I lead it and found the crux a hard steep move, but you could get bomber jam in and I just sung round on it, I then added a little 5a slab finish to it for me and Dan. The climb however was still a VS 4c, it was just steep.

I then asked Dan for a belay on "The Big Greeny" an attractive looking E3 6a. This is at the limit of my climbing grade, but I thought I'd do it anyway and back off if it was too run out. I took a line under an overhang and then out up a blank wall using to pockets. It was hard climbing up to the crux, a mix of 5b/5c but the gear was good (apart from the blank start). The move to get the first pocket involved a kneebar and a handjam then reaching up. The pocket wasn't exactly the jug I was hoping for but I tried to pull up into it anyway. I was so tired from a late night the night before and a hard days climb already. I fell off. I got back on it and tried again and fell off again. I was too much for my the manage to I stripped the route out by abseil.

Alot of us hadn't been to Almscliffe before and there was mixed discussion about the place on the walk back. Pretty much everyone disliked it apart from me. I loved the huge steep walls and cracks, hard stressful climbing and really abrasive grit. These also happened to be most the reasons people disliked it. I guess you can't please everbody, but we all agreed we'd had a good day.

After the adventure of finding a some food and a campsite we headed to Malham Cove for the day. Dan had his eye on some trad climbing on the right hand wall and I was easy for anything (as long as it wasn't sport climbing). Dan took us on a great yet really uphill walk in that pretty much took us to the top of Malham Cove and straigh to right wall. After carrying the dog down a scramble to get it we all geared up on the "gearing up rock" mentioned in the guide book. Dan was already getting eger to lead something and I said I'd belay him up Club Foot (VS 4c). He said he wanted to see what a steep yorkshire limestone VS was like before we tried anything else. The start was polished to buggary but that didn't seem to bother Dan. The tree half way up however made for some amusing climbing. Me and Andy seconded him up and enjoyed just sitting on the rim for a while.

My lead now and I took Swingover (VS 5a). It was a great climb, a little polished but with an awesome 5a move out of a groove and unto an arete. I messed up my sling runner (chose the wrong lenght) and also a wire ripped out because of the drag. The final groove was steep but not exactly hard. My arms were so pumped I found it right struggle. I belayed off as many torque nuts as I could as I'd been rvaing on about them again to Dan. Laura tried it, but found it well hard and decided to second Toaf up a route instead. So Dan joined me on the rin. It was pretty much a perfect day and we both agreed that our rats were fed for the day. We just settled down in the soft grass out of the wind and watched the cloud go by whilst assessing which nut key makes the best ball scratching impliement. With 3 with us (for some reason) it was decided the new WC nutkey is best. We must have spent an hour up there just talking and resting.

It was clearly time to head off by the the time me and Dan got down so we walked out to the bottom of Malham cove and then down the Vally. Malham is a really nice place and I'd liek to come back and do some sport climbing there one day. The drive back however took ages because of the end of Ramadan and the United game. To top off the weekend I got back to Laura's to find that Paul had escaped. Paul is her python.

11 hours on the hill? sounds like a good day to me...

High pressure guaranteed for the weekend at least. You know what that means. Time to go away climbing in the sun! After some hasty planning at a bbq Me, Andy, Laura and Chris Prescott crammed into jess late on a friday night and headed to wales. We were on a time schedule as we didn't to miss the pub. So 2 hours later we where settled around a table, huddled over a guide book enjoying a nice cold pint of XB.

I didn't realise how much I missed being in the Vaynol Arms until I got back in there. Since its been taken over everyone seems to complain that most of the climbing gear has been taken down etc. As far as I'm concerned I still see the same familiar faces in there (people from the Ceunant), the atmosphere is still that of a pub full of climbers relaxing after a hard day and usually planning another, guidebooks still litter the tables and the beer, if anything, is better. We somehow managed to snag some table service on the saturday night as well.


As the for lack of climbing gear, it seems to have just been spread out around the pub instead. You just have to check out the light above the pool table to see some of the new stuff thats been added.


Enough of the pub. Seeing as earlier in the week Laura had mentioned wanting to do Grooved Arete on the East face of Tryfan most of planning for saturday was around that. Laura has never been out on a bit mutli-pitch mountain day before so she's never encountered all the fun (or problems) of route finding, weather, carrying extra kit and getting down. I figured starting on Milestone Buttress would make for an easy start to the day and then she could see how she coped with it. Then we would head around to Tryfan's East face. Descending we would either head down the south ridge and round or take the north ridge.It would depend on how much time we had and how my daylight was left. Laura had no head torch.

With a plan like this we needed to be off the mountain before dark, so an early start was in order. I say needed but what I meant was it would make life easier and we wouldn't miss the pub. We got up nice a early saturday, breakfasted and headed to Llanberis as I wanted to buy some "torque nuts". I'll try to not rave on about them too much, but they were bloody fantastic. As I don't normally carry hexs on account of mine being BD wired versions and instead rely on cams these things were a delight to use. I seriously don't know how I managed without them on my rack. Plus I can also bash seagulls and sport climbers with them. We then headed back to the campsite to pick up all the stuff we'd left in the tents ie, water bottles, batteries etc.

We pulled off the road under Milestone and piled out of the car. Andy had brought a set of 60m 7mm twin ropes with him and was suffering some intense ribbing for climbing on "washing lines". Our plan was for me and Prescott to do the Super Direct (HVS 5a) and for Laura and Andy to do Direct Route (VD). They had to cue to start, but our route was harder so we figured we finish about the same time.

I've never climber with Prescott before, but 10 minutes after gearing up I found myself dangling of my only piece of gear asking to be lowered off by him. My feet had slipped off the start and I'd falled whilst trying to clip my second runner. I blame the fact I was wearing a sack so I ditched it in favour of hauling it up and headed off again. I sored up this pitch and hauled the sack with no problems and brought up Prescott. At the belay there was no faffing and we headed off (with sack on my back this time as the pitch wonders a little). This had been the crux for me last time as it was a little damp, but I sent it with no difficulty this time. At the belay I ended up abseiling back down to rescue a stuck forged friend for the party climbing next to me. I'm not sure why I abseiled down half my route, I was just enjoying myself so much I didn't want the fun to end for anyone else.

At the belay we eyed up the last pitch. I have done it before, so I knew what to expect and seeing as we could scramble back down to the belay we left the bags behind. Doing the last pitch with sack would have been hard enough anyway. I set out across this pitch thinking it was way harder than the last time. I just ended up dead hanging off my arms eventually. As I shuffled outwards on my arms, I reached for a good break in the flake and stuffed in a size 2 cam, upside down. As I did this Prescott let out a "phew" on account that my only other piece of gear had just be waggled out. The fall didn't bear thinking about. The final groove was also as hard as I rememebered, having a stiff move out to the right. When Prescott came up, he found a secret hold deep in the crack which I'd missed.

We basked in the sun waiting for Laura and Andy. As time passed, we nipped back down to find out where they'd got to. As it happened they'd had a bit of fun route finding, getting stuck and swapping leads so they where only starting up the second pitch. We encrouaged them up and generally lazed around till we were all standing below the final pitch... the dreaded chimney. For some dumb reason I bet Prescott a Beer I could climb it with a rucksack on. Scoll forward in time 20 minutes in time to see me thrutching, squeeling and slowly making my way somewhere between almost irretrivably wdged and upward progress. What can I say it was fun.

Laura then sensibly lead the chimney without a sack on. We deracked and then moved round to the east face of Tryfan. This happened to be cleverly avoiding all the excellent weather and keeping us in the shade all day. My plans ar not always well thought out. The east face is much further than I thought. For some reason in my head its just round the corner, which isn't far wrong. The corner however happens to be mostly the north ridge of Tryfan. Its a big corner. We decided that I would lead with Laura and that Andy and Prescott would alternate leads up Grooved arete in a effort to move as quick as possible. Time was ticking away now and we wanted to get down before it got dark.

We raced each other gearing off first and somehow I got the drop on Prescott and set off first. I'd planned to use my guide plate all the way up for some hands free belaying, meaning I could still eat and drink and we could still move quickly. Grooved arete is an awesome mountain route. At HVD its just challeneging enough with a bag on, yet still easy enough to move quickly. And almost each pitch of the route is seperated by a short walk making it more like a bunch of single pitch climbs. Me and Laura climbed as quick as we could. The weather actually started to worry me at one point. I guess the wet sea air was carried down the Ogwen Vally and up over Tryfan, but enough of my "meteorological explanations", basically there was cloud cover and a lot of it, as in FOG. I couldn't see the guys beneath us for a while. Having done the route before I kind of knew where is was headinfg and started up the final buttress section.

For some reason I was being overly enthusiastic with my gear placements and pretty much emptied my entire rack into each pitch. I do blame the new torque nuts as I know I placed the green one every pitch bar one. Making the knights move across the chequered slab was defiantly worth all the climbing, especially since this time I didn't have my stupid big boots on. The final groove was made all the more entertaining by watching Laura actually trust hanging off a belay. Considering the drop below I should have been nicer, but I figured it was good training for Gogarth at the end of the day. With only one pitch left after the final groove we took our time. I lazily took the most obvious line up it and we sat around waiting on the summit for a little.

After what seemed like an hour, I got up to see if I could see them. Prescott and Andy were no where to be seen and after much shouting, I still got nothing. I settled back down, figuring that we'd heard no cries for help or anything and waited a bit longer. I eventually got cold and restless and went looking and yelling again. This time they shouted back! Woohoo! One they were alive and two they were close to finishing. By this time I'd resided myself to the fact that we were going to have to walk some of the way down in the dark. As the North Ridge was most direct and we had enough gear to abseil off anything I'd already made the decision that it would be our descent. I decided that going fast and light meant I'd ditch lots of warm clothing taking only a bodywarmer and windshirt, and replacing it with more metal things. Fast and light only works if everyone on the team is fast and therefore I was stuck waiting in the cold in my light clothing.

Eventually we were all on the summit and I got an opptunity to do something I didn't want. Andy had left a nut in on the final pitch and I offered to fetch it out (you could walk out anyway) but I'd coiled my ropes so off I abseiled on Andy's 7mm washing lines. Lets just say I was damn glad I had gloves on. I should have added an extra karabiner to increase the breaking. It was a pretty quick ride, but I got the nut out (a nice blue shiny offset) and all was good.

We started our descent at 2000. I had already figured out that it would get dark well before we were off the mountain and resided to this fact I decided to focus of possibly the more important issue at hand... getting down before last orders at the pub. What proceeded was a speedy descent with some excellent route finding from Prescott, meaning we got down in about 2 hours. Considering it was pitch black to finish and Laura had no head torch we did bloody well. More than enough time to grab some chips and hit the pub.

As it happens last orders turned out to be more like 12, so three pints down we stumbled back to the tents, intent on an easy day sunday (see the really bad joke) .

As it happened I woke up and look at the sky through the little window in my tent. I looked grey and gloomy, so I put the kettle on and snuggled back down in my sleeping bag. After the first brew, I heard movement and started the "extricating myself from the sleeping bag and tent" proceedings. This took longer than nessessary as it was actually cold. After a brief and almost disasterous incident involing a full bladder, my being really lazy and the amount of water left over from 3 pints, I decided to actually get up. Cue pete's eats.

So we headed to the Gribben Facet or Clogwyn y Traw as it is in North Wales Rock. There was a couple of climbs I wanted to do there personally and it was an easy walk in from Idwal car park, across a bog. We headed straight for Herford's Crack, HVS 5a. Arriving at the base of it I looked up at a near perfect splitter, well as perfect as possible for rhyolite (it had 1 metre offwidth section in the middle). The party before me jokingly advised the use of 8 size 3 cams. I looked down at my rack and replied with "I've only got one... but I've got a few half sizes and some torque nuts (see bringing them up again)". They laughed and wished me luck.

So praying I would have enough gear, and residing to the fact I'd have to run it out a little I set off. The crack climbing was just purely on jams and slightly too small for my hands to begin with. No worries, as I rested on my feet as much as possible and placed my first cam then reached up and cammed in a torque nut. It couldn't have sat more perfectly to be honest. I passed the offwidth with a swift arm bar and a useful facehold (crimp) and started up the final crack section. This happened to be perfect for my handjams and I sored up feeling disappointed when it came to an end. I brought up Prescott and Laura. After a summer of climbing on grit Prescott showed some great jamming technique all the way up, the only thing slowing him down was the cammed torque nuts!. Laura on the other hand hasn't really done any jamming. Prescott yelled up advice and instructions to her and occasionally "no you can't layback it!". She pulled out of the final moves looking stressed yet happy, then promptly colapsed on her back saying she was tired. Crack climbing is fun.

We headed for Diadem (HVS 5a) next. By now we were all feeling tired from the day before, but me and Prescott geared up for it anyway. It took what was descibes as a greasy groove. Prescott protested before I told him that 2 days of good weather would have made it dry. Thankfully it was actually dry when I got into the groove, avoiding an "I told you so". For a 5a it seemed really hard and I ended up empting my rack into a 25 metre pitch. I also screwed up my route finding royally. I managed to turn a 25 metre pitch into a 49 metre pitch by missing the belay and running off up the VD. Prescott agreed about where I'd gone wrong and what a stiff pitch it was. By this point Andy and Laura had taken to finding some sun and bathing in it (bear in mind the crag was in the shade). After almost falling asleep whilst belaying as well, me and Prescott decided that I was time to call it a day.

All in all a good weekend. I've climbed on the Glyder Facet finally, and got some new gear to play with. Laura had her fist mountain day out as well. I know I started this and mentioned climbing in the sun, well infact we didn't get to climb in the sun at all. Milestone doesn't really get the sun and by the time we moved round to the East face, the sun had crossed the sky. The gylder facet doesn't get much sun either. So much for climbing in the sun huh?

Cold Winter Days...

Claire keeps bugging me to actually write a blog about something other than climbing. I still am actaully planning to write something but I'm not sure what to write about, I don't really do much else other than climb.

This blog isn't about climbing, its about dreaming. I can't wait for winter. Whilst everyone was tucked up nice a warm last year Me and Claire (and toaf sometimes) were still out climbing as hard as ever. Obviousley you have to accept that gloves and a belay jacket are essential and that you can't climb at your limit, but what you gain is awesome.

Seeing as its so cold I think it puts people off. As long as its dry and not too windy then theres no real problem. Places like gogarth can become real suntraps in the winter. Its the difficult period before the snow settles in for some winter climbing but you can't psyche yourself up for a day in the cold when you can steal some great days out.

I'll be out this winter as me and Claire have already planned a day of hard and fast climbing in the cold. The plan is for Claire to lead the first and last pitches of Tennis Shoe on Idwal, with the HVS start. Then we'll head over to Javlin Direct (E1 5b) for my lead, and finish up Continuation Crack (HVS 5b). Its a route we've done over and over but it'll be harder in winter and with Javlin Direct. I'll let you know how it goes and whether we're too cold on it or not.

As I've already mentioned Gogarth is a bit of a suntrap sometimes, so Hopefully a good deal of winter will be spent there.

Eventually the weather will be cold enough for some winter climbing too. I can't wait...

A hard day on skyline...

I guess it all started the night before. The usual took place, down the pub talking about climbing with friends then we busted out the climbing DVDs to watch. The one that happened to be on was "Hard Grit" which was put on after Laura proclaimed that cold haul wasn't "real" climbing. She'll learn one day!. I watched Hard Grit and I have to say I wasn't that impressed. Now this may be because I'm now spoilt with the likes of Onsite, Psyche, Sharp End and First Ascent etc. I'll put it down to that, but it was still cool to see how the history of hard climbing in the peak developed. To be honest I'm not much of a grit fanatic, I'd rather be on mountain routes or hanging around at Gogarth, but its still where I first started climbing.

We headed out to skyline today. I spent a lot of time at the Roaches over the years, seeing as I lived in Stoke and its not far away, but its getting a little old going to that same place all the time. I've started trying to find the out of the way and none too trodden crags, hence skyline for the day. With most of the routes being under 10 metres it also meant we could get on a lot of routes. After a late start (due to a fit of film watching the night before; Hard Grit, Psyche and then Snatch) we set out. Me, Andy, Laura and someone I have not climbed with call Gaz. Turned out that he's a good climber and safe as houses.

After parking the other end (instead of at the Roaches car park) under Andy's instruction we wandered in slowly trying to find some rock. Our first port of call was Alpha Buttress and after some slow gearing up I got on 39th Step (E2 6a). I'm not entirely sure why I decided to jump on a 6a first thing, especially seeing as I've only lead two ever. It was only short and well protected but I found it seriously hard. The final moves (all 6a) were on frictiony slopey holds with nothing good for the hands. I ended up padding up with my left hand and reaching high with my right and still being off the good hold by a few inched. After carefully moving my feet up again, I slapped up for it and pulled up over. I topped out being congratulated by Gaz and Laura, and lolled onto the floor disregarding my helmet and enjoying being on flat ground.

What a start to the day! The line was pretty compelling (groove then blank slab) but I honestly didn't think I'd actually get up it. I started eyeing up a next objective as soon as I got hold of a guide book. Me and Laura did Days Gone By (S 4b) whilst Andy and Gaz did Breakfast Problem (VD). Back down at the bags again I started looking at San Melas. At E3 5c it was technically easier than the first route, but a little neckier. There was only cams for the break at half height and side runner poked in at the tip of my reach. I reckoned that I could do it so I tied on and had a belay from Gaz.

The lower slab had and awesome section of pubble pulling to establish yourself at the break. Here I crammed in 3 cams and set about poking in a high side runner. I mantled into the break and then found the line and the moves I needed to make. The first move was pure friction, standing there making sure I had enough rubber in contact to say on. I could see the next move which required a difficult rockover on to a high slopey hold. With virtually nothing for my hands I went up and tried the move and backed off to the break. This happened a few times until another climber arrived, assured me I was on the right track and offered the advise of the pebble on the right. I found this pebble useless but the help was nice. Finally I psyched myself up enough to bear down on my right foot and rock over on it. Glancing back I could see the fall I would take, not something I wanted to happen. I found a massive pebble (size of a small marble) and pulled up on this like it was a lifeline. The gradient now had lessened making the foot work eaiser and I topped out quickly. This was definatley scarier than the first route.

When headed over to meet some friends at the Upper Tier then, and I managed Bachelors Buttress (VS 4b) before we got rained off the crag. Being Rained off meant only one thing and I enjoyed my Half pint in the Rock Inn as we discussed the day and planned many another adventure.

All in all I've been climbing on grit for the best part of two weeks now. Like I've already said I'm not its biggest fan, but this day out at skyline in the cold crisp air as got me really worked up for some winter grit climbing. Now I'm stuck back at school I can't wait to get back out...

A Dream of White Horses

Probably the most famous sea cliff climb in England, and definitely one of the most iconic images in climbing. I had the opportunity to do it this summer and I have to say I didn't jump at the chance, well sort of. Here is how it happened...

We went to Tree-mud-rock for the weekend and after our first day where me and Rob did Merlin (I've already blogged this see:Tree-Mud-Rock). Anyway Me and Rob went to track down the Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog. Failing to arrive before it closed, we set out to find some Purple Moose ale instead. We ended up in a pub and we were happily enjoying some ale when the rest of our party called to ask where we were. So into to car, pick them up and then straight back to the golden fleece for a nights drinking. Eventually everyone turned up and we didn't leave till go knows when leaving both cars in Tremadog intending to pick them up in the morning. Needless to say it was a good night.

So now cut forward to the morning. Ideas are being thrown around and Stewie fancies doing "Dream..." this weekend. Rob and Toaf won't go to Gogarth, they don't like it. Tim's staying with Toaf and climbing with him so Tom stays as well. I guess I could claim I was forced into it, but that would be unfair I'd even offered to drive. So Me, Stewie and Soames headed off in the car to Gogarth.

Now I'll admit I was feeling hungover. A nights drinking had taken its toll on me and I was absolutely bricking it about doing Dream of White Horses. It had already been decided that I would take the final Traverse pitch. I've a great skill of fall off classic routes and tend to get very nervous about doing them. This was serious. I mean there was ocean, we couldn't just abseil off and walk out, once we were in we were committed. Even now I can remember that horrible apprehensive feeling I had.

We walked in following Soames happy little gait. The guy really loves Gogarth. Me and Stewie plodded on solemnly behind, me still trying to recovered from my hangover and downing pepsi like no bodies business. Eventually the little dwarf paused and start looking around over the edge. Guidebooks out, both me and Soames studied them and tried to work out where we were and how to get to the route. Eventually He realised his mistake scampered off merrily (he really is like a happy little hobbit sometimes). We followed him down.

I remember it coming into view. Jesus Christ this cliff looked big. Not only did it look big but steep. Other than the obvious weaknesses of Rumble and Wen, it just looked steep, hold less and impassible. I refused to climb, just sat there and refused. We sat and hashed out where the route was and as I looked closer I could see cracks and ledges to follow, but it still just looked so steep. I told Stewie and Soames I wasn't climbing, not today, not on this hangover, not this route. I could imagine something bad happening. They stared back at me in disbelief. They know I climb hard stupid routes and I was backing away from this. Soames started to tell me it was slabby and the climbing easy, well within my grade. I told them I wasn't going to be bullied into it.

I sat with my hood up, sheltering from the wind, listening to the waves crashing at the base of the crag. I sat there having a mental battle with myself about it. Stewie really wanted to do it and being honest so did I. Eventually Soames asked if I was serious about not doing it. Decision time. I turned around and before I could engage my brain my mouth had blurted out:

"bloody hell, lets get it over with then"

And that was it. My head had somehow screwed itself back on. We geared up quickly took the ropes and set out to the abseil point. Soames decided not to climb and to watch us instead to make sure we were ok. Stewie left me to rig the abseil but he headed down to the first ledge. We didn't do the first pitch as the sea was too rough and I've a fear of getting washed off (as it almost happened at Castell Helen). So we started one pitch up. I ended up leading the first pitch of about 4c- climbing. I found the route winding down then up the cliff on a big traverse. Eventually I belayed where it crossed the line of Wen. I was so absorbed in the climbing at this point that I almost forgot to belay. I set myself 3 good anchors and hung above the ocean. After yelling I was safe Stewie started over to join me and I tried to keep the ropes tidy in the wind.

Stewie had the most technical pitch of climbing on the route (4c+) and he climbed it in great style. I watched him moving away and gradually shifted my position trying to find something that was comfortable, or would at least take the weight off some part of me. After what seemed like and age, and two dead feet he shouted across he was safe. The wind did a good job of carrying his words away for him but he smiled and gave me a thumbs up so I took him off.

I seconded badly I think. I know I didn't climb with pitch well, expecting it to be as easy as the first pitch. I followed the wandering line up and them down to stewie belay and them joined him hanging there to sort out the gear. We swapped gear and runners and I confessed fears of this pitch. Even looking at it now, littered with chalked up holds from previous parties I didn't think I could do it. I also kept looking down and the floor. Well I say floor but the final pitch doesn't cover any floor, there is just some rock and then ocean. As the sea swells the arch fills up with water and white topped waves crash and break beneath us. I knew if I fell off it would be dangling in space for me, dangling above crashing white horses.

Seeing as it was my pitch and somewhere along the line I'd actually offered to take it I could hardly back down. Anyway some pride was at stake as I knew I wouldn't live it down off Soames and Stew.

The first move was the hardest, and with the least gear. I though at the time, "sod, if this is what the starts like, whats the rest of it like?". Its not though. It eased off, but I'm not saying it was easy and there tonnes of gear. Saying that I should have placed more for Stew. The climbing differs so much from the first slabby pitches to a gymnastic style pulling on crimps and undercuts and then laying away to reach a good hold and a rest. I topped out and looked back along my route. For some reason I was surprised to see Stewie behind me so I yelled I was safe and brought him over.

I know its cliched on such a classic route, but the weight of history added so much to this climb. Its only my 4th climb at Gogarth and something that will always stay with me. Any climb which makes you doubt yourself so much and then allows you to pick your way though it building yourself back but is immense. Gogarth is hard, steep, committing and it scares me, doesn't stop me loving it though.

Anyway I'm going back in a few weeks to do Wen...

Polished Limestone!

Well I guess it started the morning I wrote my blog on Tree-mud-rock. Definatly a very delayed morning, but we got out climbing in the end. We crammed 5 people into my car and headed off to Symonds Yat for a bit of limestone related fun. A few of our party had never climbed on Limestone before (in fact Laura had never climbed on anything other than grit, poor girl). Seeing as we where all pretty lethargic I took everyone to the pinnical and we abseiled in in an attempt tp wake people up. This Iis when I also found out was the first time laura had abseiled as well.

Eventually all reached the base of the crag and tramped through the undergrowth and found the hole in the wall area. Laura wanted to get on her first severe so Toaf belayed her up Golden Fleece. Me, Tim and Ceara took Transformer a HS 4b next to it. Symonds Yat does suffer from quite bit of polish (for those who havn't been there) but the crag is in such a great place, sat in the middle of a forest with great amenities near by (you can top out and go from a brew before your next climb). It is a great place to climb. Laura really enjoyed Golden Fleece and was chuffed with her first severe.

On the walk back, me and Toaf studied a blank looking section of wall for good routes. In the end we both liked this overhanging groove line, but didn't know what it was. After a quick check in the guide book, it was established to be The Ankh going at E1 5b. Regardless of being hungover and tired, we decided to head up it anyway, (also having no shame in just backing off). The start went alright with a cam in the overhanging groove. After a quick scoot back to the floor and a test of this I went back up and launched over it into the groove. Whilst in this realised how steep the route actually was so got quite a bit of protection in.

I nipped up the groove and then put a couple of pieces in before the traverse. Its only about a 12ft traverse and for god only knows reason I thought it would be easy. After my first attempted to cross it (and my swift retreat) I spent a good while erm-ing and ah-ing about whether to continue or not. All this time my arms where getting pumped out. I added another couple of pieces of gear making a veritable nest and then set out again aiming for the exit groove. The traverse proved very hard and I was soon pumped but I struggled into the groove hoping (well praying actually) for some decent holds.

There wasn't any. Well not any for super pumped arms anyway, and with no choice I carried on up. I was also still running it out from my nest of gear (eek!). After what seemed like forever I managed to get my hand on a jug and start resting my arms one at a time. The Jug also proved to be a thread as well so I started to try and get sling though it. While I wrestled a thin sling through a ting hold for the thread, with one arm getting pumped I let out a power squeek. Its like a power scream, but it only happenings when I'm crapping myself and things are about to go horribly wrong.

I pulled the thread through and clipped it. Phew. I allowed myself to look down and the horrible distance from my gear. I topped out on the easier ground and brought up Toaf after Ceara had given it a go. We both agreed it was an awesome route (one of the few routes I've done with Toaf this year) and was very stiff. Its a great climb all in all.

I checked on the UKC.com. Its actually graded E2 5c and not E1 5b. I think I need a more up to date guide book.

By the time me and Toaf had walked down, we found Ceara and Tim eyeing up a corner/groove line. They had not checked the guide book and seemed to plan on a pure onsite thinking it looked quite easy. This line was in fact the Russian (HVS 4c, in our old guidebook). I rememeber when I first lead it. I rememeber the stress and pain from some of the jams and thinking I was going to fall off. Easy is not this climb, but they tried none the less (I did warn them). Ceara gave it a good bash, backing off just below the crux. Tim next jumped on the rope and retreated back down off the crux as he was getting high above a crap piece of gear. Not wanting to clear it by abseil, Toaf then jumped on and cruised up it (bearing in mind, he just semi-cruised E2 5c on second) leaving me and Laura to second it.

After checking on UKC again, the Russian is now graded HVS 5a.

By this point we where all knackered from the night before and it was getting late, so we headed back to the car after some bouldering in the cave. Once we got back to stoke, this was the start of many days out climbing (mainly on grit)