Bandoliers:
God I actually hesitate to write this post. I’ve been an advocate that gearloops are the way forward since well, since I’ve been climbing. I’ve tried a bandolier before and it just didn’t work, but this was always for rock climbing. This weekend just gone Stewie made me use a bandolier (as he out ranked me on experience). His argument was that especially at lower grades you’re covering easier ground most of the time so it make sense just to keep belays simple and swap the gear over quickly. This I found out meant that hanging stances (or semi-hanging) where quick and easy to swap over on. Apart from the fact that I’m a little big when I’m in full winter kit and struggle to get a sling over my head and arm, this system has been excellent.
It for change-overs at stances we had 2 slings, one with ‘draws on it and one with pro on it. Screw’s were racked on our harnesses. I’m thinking of pinching Toaf’s gearlooped sling. I think this’ll be a good compromise as you can rack everything on one sling, but compartmentalize it. I’ll see how it goes.
I’ve also retied a larger sling to see if that works a little better getting it over my big head.
Remember that if you come to the crux pitch then you can always take 5 minutes to re-rack the gear on your harness where you like it? Simples.
Screamers:
I’m now the proud owner of 2 of these. For those who don’t know what they are in think their proper name would be a “load limiting sling”. They’re a full strength sling, but then it’s folded and stitched to break at 3kn. This breaking of the sling reduces the impact on the piece of gear. The main benefit of this isn’t that it makes a bad piece good, but that it can make a marginal piece that little bit better.
I’ve been placing a screamer on my first runner if it’s in ice no matter what, but I’ve found myself running it out a little over less than ideal placements. So I carry 2 at least. I mean I hope I’ll never have to use them, but you may as well stack the cards in your favour…
Pick placements. Be inventive?
It’s going to be quite hard to break an axe, especially a DMM fly because each one seems built like a tank, made to take abuse. I found that torqueing them in cracks was no problem, but don’t be afraid to give it a little extra help (ie with the hammer) to help the placement sit well.
Ditch the leashes…
…or rather have easily removable leashes. I’m not going to start complaining about the DMM fly because so far it’s met all my standards. It resharpens well, it’s not broken yet. Hell I like it, but I do have a few little gripes. I’m adding pinky baskets to the base of my fly’s made from quark bits when they come (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=104120). These will be similar to Martin Browns adaptations. However I’m afraid of dropping the things so some tiny carabiners (
3 comments:
You can get actual clipper kits for the flys - basically some stiffened steel cable that bolts on to give you an easy clip in point.
Interesting points about the bandolier - personally though I hate them with a passion, even moreso in winter than in summer - although I'm toying with the idea of making my own for a very specific task (holding quickdraws and nothing more when we attempt the 17pitch WI3 monster route, Gausta Marathon in Rjukan), screws etc will definitely be staying on the harness though.
Speaking of the spring leashes - have you seen the post on my blog about lanyards? 5m of elastic will be way WAAAAAAY too long anyway. Check out my thoughts - I ended up modifying a Grivel set up.
Lauren.
yeah 5 metres was! I've shortened it loads as I've tested it out in my "training area" at home (an open loft hatch to hook my axes). I know you can get clipper kits, but its only the old style flys with the holes on them. I might get work to swage some wire round the head to make clipping easier.
As for bandoliers I also hate them, but they make life easier so.
Reading about your landyards is how I found your blog actually.
how do you find the DMM rebels?
Ah the clippers only being for old style flys makes sense as I've never actually seen anyone with as set.
Fair play on the lanyards thing, let me know how you get on with the bungee cord - you need to make sure they're short enough that you can't easily trip yourself up round the knees when daggering (the biggest pitfall of cord lanyards and why I finally upgraded!) Also, if you wanted a smaller crab than the Nano you could get away with using accessory crabs as the shock cord won't have much of a strength rating (if any?)
The DMM Rebels are wonderful axes, truly. I know alot of people sort of turn their noses up at them in favour of Quarks or Vipers, but I much prefer them to Quarks (which I have also used), not tried Vipers mind.
I bought them primarily as an axe for Scottish mixed as I didn't ever think I'd be climbing continental icefalls, so when I did and found that they perform fantastically on pure ice as well as being bombproof and brilliant on mixed stuff I was really rather chuffed.
The only slight complaint I have about them is the picks - DMM's factory pick production (and at a guess this will be the same on the Flys) is shockingly poor compared to Petzl and Black Diamond - teeth that are kinda blunt and also stick really badly in ice because there's no bottom taper. That said, after a couple of 20min sessions with a file they are now absolutley superb!
They're definitely better for the extra grip positions I've put on them too with self-amalg. Customised to what is for me darn near perfection (I honestly can't think of a set of axes I'd swap them for!)
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