Me peeling off a arete
Ronnie just falling out of view
Prescott happiness after completing a problem
Check out Ronnie's arm?
I didn't think I'd get any climbing outdoors in this weekend, infact I think I've spent much more time playing on worms armageddon rather than climbing. We spent saturday climbing indoors at Awesome Walls Stoke. They've finally got around the changing all the routes (although changing them all in one go does mean that they'll all get old at the same time?). There was some pretty good problems, especially on the slabby walls but I find it hard to get proper psyched for indoor climbing.
Cratcliff is near Matlock area, so heading to Leek wasn't the most direct route, but it did make for a nice scenic drive across the Peak District. I'd brought an Alpkit Gouron 25L, brought second hand off a friend for the grand sum of £10 (best deal ever). I'd managed to cram my rack, harness, food, clothes, shoes and water into this tiny sack, with helmet and ropes carried on top of the sack. I must say that I was impressed at how much you could fit in with careful packing and how well it carried. I think this thing will be a firm favourite to be carried up mountain routes and for cragging in the future. I'm going to be a little careful about hauling the poor thing though.
The weather was fantastic and the walk in simple so we arrived at the crag 'bout 11 and started to make our way to the main face. I took me a while to get my head around where everything was at the crag. Most of our group seemed to be content with some bouldering so I left them too it and headed to my aim for the day, Suicide Wall (HVS 5a). Suicide wall is a pretty long route for grit at 30 metres, you can do it in 2 pitches. Apparently it's tradition to do it like that? Either way I figured it would go in 1 pitch.
Now I only had a tree stump to land on if I fell off, great right? more gear was ploughed in and I started up the jamming crack to the stance. I was starting to rethink my "all in one pitch plan", infact I was starting to think about bailing off the route. I was pretty scared to be honest. It was a hot day and my hands where sweating up every three seconds, I though I'd end up blowing a jam and slipping out. I was also paranoid 'bout hitting that tree.
Rested I went for it. 15 metres to go, just keep moving. Stop, whack in a piece of protection, clip it and go. My arms started to pump out as I got under the last section and I knew I couldn't do it. I hauled myself into a groove in the rock and snuck a hands off rest balanced precariously on my feet with my calves cramping up. I spied the final crack and cringed. I'd used up all my big cams and I've even left the size 4 on the ground. Why'd I do that? I always carry the size 4 on grit! Dammit. Then I remember the torque nuts sitting quietly on the back of my harness. In goes the red one, quick rest and I've gone for it up this fantastic layback flake. With no large gear I slip a tiny wire and my smallest cam, clip it, release my cheeky knee jam and head up for the top holds.
hey're jugs thank god! And jugged enough that I can just pull over and stand breathing hard at the top, grinning from ear to ear. It's not often you find a route that just really seems to take all you have to do it! It wasn't the top of my grade, it wasn't the hardest moves but it was just the best climbing. I yelled I was safe and sat down to rest for a minute.
The weather reports for the weekend did not look good. Not good at all. Rain showers where pretty much predicted all weekend, with monday being our best day. Sadly I knew we'd be heading off a little earlier on the mondayso wouldn't be able tog et a full day in anyway. Still we come to brave the weather and we went to chairladder on the Saturday. In fact we had chairladder all to ourselves.
Mine climb takes a groove to below a roof, then over the roof and up across the slab to finish. It was agreed I'd tackle the 5a roof pitch, although deep down I was actually dreading it. I was afriad I'd pump out trying to get over it and fall off. After a initial scrambly start to gain a guano covered ledge Stewie set off up the groove/wall to the first belay. I joined him, swapped the gear and then headed up to the roof. It looked pretty big but I could reach the lip. After a little reach around I found a good hold and just committed to it. The hold seemed to carry on along the cliff and formed a massive jug, thankfully. I pulled over the roof and set off up the wall above. This was pretty easy and Stewie lead the final pitch off. 
At the bags Stewie convinced me that we should lead Bishop's Rib (E1 5b). I was pretty hesitant as I wasn't so sure about this granite stuff yet, but Stewie's enthusiasm andthe picture in the book inspired me so off we scrambled. This time down a different gully bringing us to the starting pitch. It looked necky, like really necky. Either way I'd committed myself to it now and with some encrouagement from Stu I headed off. I managed to fit a single wire in to protect the first move and prayed I wouldn't have to test it. Then off up the slab. There was a good ledge to rest on which mean I could arrange a nest of protection for the next bit, mostly small wires (sub 4kn). I knew I'd have to commit fully to the next move and went for it. It gave me access to an awesome cam placement (thankfully I had spotted it and had it pre-rigged on my harness). In went the cam and off I went on a crimpy layback crux to surmount an overhang. God it was excellent! Stewie took the second pitch which dissapointed him. After an initially scary start it eased off greatly. However he was out of earshot almost immediatly and the weather had decided to start moving in. I wasn't looking forward to to prospect of climbing 5a in the rain. After what seemed like forever (it wasn't) I got a tug and set off, praying the rain wouldn't start. We bugged out with a plan to head back after that.
...but the rain never came. As we where driving through Sennen we decided to stop off for a pasty and see if the other Wrekin people where still about. They where and we were pursuaded to do Africa Route (VS 5a). Apart for a suqency start which would result in a ground fall if you messed it up, it was a excellent route. I felt VS 5a was good grade for it as it had everything from jamming, laybacking and some pseudo-chimneying. We bugged out as our car parking was coming up.
We then headed for Detergent Wall (HVS 5a) so it was back down Ash Can Gully but instead of bumbling around scrambling and abseiling we nipped down some roped left by a Navy Mountaineering club. Detergent wall didnt exactly turn out to be the nice simple HVS we'd hoped. The first pitch, whilst only 4b apparently was a horrible move with an ankle snapping landing. The next pitch however was the good pitch. It was definatly runout as the guidebook stated but had enough goo protection to make me feel happy. Stewie thoiught it was a good pitch too. The only downside was the low flying sea gulls which didn't take too kindly to us. The third pitch proved a massive problem due to the orange/green lichen that covered the final holds. Instead Stewie escaped up Pendulum Chimeny's finaly pitch. Our forth and final pitch had me diving to the floor when a seagull went for me, and then avoiding the vomit! I've never seen us climb so quickly just to avoid something as trivial as a 3kg bird. Eventually we where safe at last.
Stewie took the second pitch and made it out to the overhang he was meant to be going over. The backed up his gear, and went for it... before rapidly retreating. Stewie complained that it was too much and he nipped up Diocese (VS 5a) instead. When I seconded it I realised that it was overhang off the first route we did (Mine Climb), it was just that Stewie had come from a different direction. Either way he did an awesome pitch. I took the final 4b pitch which was stiff as hell for some reason.
It was 1840 now so we headed back for some more Doom Bar and a quieter night. Sunday rolled around and we packed up. One downside of having a massive tent and luxury items is that it takes forever to actually pack everything away again, I think if anything I prefere my smaller tent. Instead of climbing in cornwall we started off early with a plan to do a route in Avon Gorge on the way back. We got to Avon for early afternoon (we did set off late) and ended up at main wall, sponging a guidebook off some nice people and started up Clarion (VS 4c). It was an awesome route and I hopefully will get back to Avon Gorge alot more in future. We managed to dogde the rain, barely and get on the road again to head back.
Cornwalls a pretty cool place. The jumbling granite blocks arn't quite like the limestone cliffs of Pembroke or the quartzite walls of Gogarth. The ability to scramble to the bottom of most of the cliffs makes it a much more accessable venue. As for the granite itself having a big rack paid off. On some routes or pitches I placed nothing but cams so having a full rack of them paid off. I like granite, bit it doesn't half tear you to shreds.
There's been a bunch of reviews written about superlight rocks since they came out. I'd like to say ever since the days of sharing a rack with my friend I've loved these nuts, but that's not the case. When I first found them on his rack I was pretty dubious about them. A single wire? really? Also they had a pretty odd shape. Eventually I started to carry them and then used them regularly. I've been pretty much using them every weekend for the last 2 years and then on all my trips and during winter. So are them any good?
Of course with everything there is a downside. I've found 2 limitations. The first is visible when you inspect the nuts. Sizes 1 & 2 are rated to 4Kn, Sizes 3 to 6 are rated to 6kn. Now seeing as the average fall has been calculated to between 4 - 7kn, you've got the be a little careful where you use these. Having said that I've fallen on them a couple of times and they haven't broken. The second problem is what I'd tend "cable bend". They are pretty prone to having the cables bent through over enthusiastic cleaning. 
I've always just bent them back but over 2 years of use they have started to show a little wear. Actually I've noticed a wire fray so I'll be replacing this as soon as I can. Also the head of the smallest wire became loose at one point. This was easily remedied with the application of some epoxy.
After reading the artical on the BMC website about the slate quarries I thought I'd sum it all up simply for anyone who reads this blog, I'm also going to add my own suggestions:
A final note is that with the current access situation, why not go somewhere else, away from the slate. Just up the road there is a magical place called Llanberis pass with hard testing single pitch routes to winding multipitch climbs that take you far from the maddening crowd. I'v climber there for 4 days in my climbing lifetime and barely scratched the surface. So get out, explore the delights of mountain rhyolite and leave slate alone, it'll always be there.
I'm sitting at work, battered and bruised. My fingers hurt alot and I'm limping but seriously... wow what a weekend! After thinking of taking it easy because I had not gone to Tremadog Festival we opted for a couple of days out in the Peak district. What started as 4 of us going to Stanage went to 14 of us over all on the Saturday! Stanage being so big lent itself well to our big group and we wondered up and down the crag all day. I can't really comment on what everyone else did so I'll just stick with my highlights of the day.
O630 my alarm went off, and I rolled over and killed it for another 10 minutes. I skipped breakfast to dive straight into the car for an early start and was on my way for 0645. In stoke I fuelled up, grabbed a sandwich and headed to Andy's for the first pick up, then Ceara's only to find out we had another car full joining us for the day. We set off at 0816 (not bad by our standards) and got over to the Stanage car park for 0945, where I was surprised to find there was still spaces. We bumbled in towards the unconquerables area. I fancied doing The Left Unconquerable as I'd done right last time I was here. It's graded E1 5b but all the people I've spoken to said they found it easier than Right. I Actually found right alright for it's grade, it was a little pumpy, but then again I took an almost hands off rest at half height to was resonably umpumped for the crux.
Back at the ground I checked the grade of the Arete to the right on Right unconquerable. It was called Monday Blue at E2 5b. I haven't climbed many arete's before, unless it's been a few boulder problems but I liked the challenge. Knowing it was a little run out I racked up with some more cams, but as I was to find out, I didn't get a good enough look at the route. The start was probably the best moved till you gained the first break, then it ran out a little (risking a crater) till the next bit of gear. I did try and get something in a small break and had some cam thrown up to me. Actually they where thrown at me hitting me in the balls. More amsuing than it sounds. When I eventually caught them they didn't fit anyway. Gaining the next break I figured a size 4 would go in well, another cam I didn't have. After about 10 attempts to throw it up to me, I gave up trying to catch it and placed my 3.5 and backed it up with 2.5. I prayed they'd hold. The finish was up the top of right unconquerable which I did less stylishly than last time, salmoning my way over. This time Andy, Ceara and Prescott seconed (or top-roped) it, all with varying degrees of success.
After some baiting from Prescott about the first time I did Telli (E3 6a) when there good depth of snow. There was enough snow that if I fell off the crux I'd have ended up in it. Prescott arguement was that this has made the route safer. Either way I did actually want to do the route again as I'de enjoyed it so much last time. I nailed it again this time, and Ceara & Prescott seconded. Actually Prescott did it twice because he slipped seconding it the first time.
I headed back to find everyone still around unconquerables area. I actually attempted Curving Buttress next. It was E2 5b and I say was because it'll need regrading. What basically happened was that I messed up the route, climbed slightly off and feel off it. I torn out all my protection, and the skyhook I had on what I thought was a bomber ledge was actaully a hollow flake. It blew off, well it exploded I guess littering the are with bits of flake. I crumpled into the floor, missing the pad and any spotters apart from Lou who got knocked backward and banged her head. All in all it wasn't a good experience, but one that I'll learn from. It's caused me to rethink using my skyhook as a piece of trad protection. I'm also pretty annoyed that I ruined a route.
And that was pretty much the end our day on Stanage. It was about 2030 before we finally left and had to race to the Banbury to find a fish and chip shop. This did some seriously good food, and we had a couple of beers back in Stoke. All in all a good day out.
Because we where all pretty much trashed from our day out a lazy day for the sunday was planned. We'd meet at 1000 outside the pub, leaving me and Andy time to cook a masisve fried breakfast we figured we'd earned. We nipped up to the Roaches. I only got a couple of route's done, both one's I'd done before. Firstly it was Via Dolorosa (VS 4c). It can be done in between 1 and 3 pitches, but me Laura and Andy chose to do it in 2. I took the first 2, giving Andy the money pitch. It was a route he wanted to do anyway. I enjoyed it, including the semi hanging belay you can build. As for it being the best VS on grit I don't know, but it is pretty damn good.
Then I did Eugene's Axe (E2 5c). I've done it before, but I slipped down climbing it last time so I wanted to get a ground up ascent of it. The top section is pretty easy for it's grade I think. Laura actually seconded me up it, something I didn't actually think she'd get up. We could see the weather coming in quite quickly. It had actually started to rain as I coiled up the ropes. I knew Scott was doing Raven Rock Gully (Diff). Although this is only a diff it's a journey into the esotertic and traditional. It takes a gully of flakes up to a chimney building up an excellent crecendo... a squeeze though a "boulder choke" at the top! I think it's excellent and well worth doing, but in the wet I wasn't too sure how Scott would fair. Thankfully it stays pretty dry for a while and we all yelled up hellpful suggestions as for how he should go about finishing the route. In the end I realised that he was stuck and couldn't complete it I went up to give him a hand. A quick italien hitch and he was out of that hole, smiling to be back in the real world again... and then the weather hit us. 
Two serious thunderstorms hammered us so I sent Scott down to find a waterproof and some warm clothes. Susie eventually decided that seconding it wasn't really going to happen so I abseiled back down the chimeny squeeze. Getting through a squeeze on abseil was a pretty cool but weird thing to do. Then I was at the top of the route listening to the thunder overhead and watching the hail lash down on us. I was pretty much soaked to the skin but grinning like mad. I managed to strip out the route and we bailed to the pub for a well earn pint.
I remember berating a friend about a year ago for moitsuring his hands after a climbing session. Now maybe I wasn't climbing as much as him, or my chalk was less drying but my hand were fine and I didn't see a point in moisturiser. Now my fingers are a consant sore point, pun intended. I climb each weekend, and unless I actually go bouldering and my hand stay covered in chalk, outdoor climbing isn't that bad. But indoor climb, something I do twice a week is killing them.
Each Wednesday and Friday I wake up and can't touch anything with my fingertips. One of the staff are redpoint told me off the other day for not looking after my hands, and berating me for my laid back attitude where by I just said I'd superglue a split tip back together if need be. Now I really would superglue a finger tip back together, but only if it was going to stop me climbing for a weekend. In reality I'm just not giving my skin time to heal, but it's had to take a week or so off.
(smearing in my verdes on archangel, a route I didn't actually complete)
Finally Stewie has been given a pass out from his wife and been allowed to come and play for the weekend. We snuck 3 days in North Wales this weekend just gone taking adventage of the excellent weather. We had some fun at Gogarth and Llanberis Pass again, getting on and ticking off some classic routes. 
ere the route eased and took a nice line to top out. Our next route was a point of contention. It was a classic route called The Trap, HVS 4c. In the guide book it states that "climbers of larger stature will struggle" and this route has been the "scene of a few epics". Infact it require climbing into the back of a massive gash in the cliff and then backfooting up a chinmeny that got thinner and thinner. I managed pretty much all the route, albight being very scared and then was stumped by the squeeze chimeny afterwards. Apparently I'm a "larger frame climber" because I couldn't fit. This now means that I get ribbed for being "the fat guy" all the time. Stewie felt the need to comment on my waistline everytime I ate something for the rest of the weekend. So I left a prussic loop & 'biner and lowered back to the floor. Stewie then lead Britomaris and I did the second pitch as our escape route.
I brief lull in our climbing allowed me to expand my waistline somemore and have some lunch. We then headed for Wen. We'd accepted that we'd just do the high tide start (from the ledges) but as we came to abseil in, guess what? someone was already on the route before us! grrrrr, We did a climb named Dde (HVS 5a, low for the grade) as a consolation prize. This was a realy nice route and I took the second and 5a pitch which had a stunning little bit and a laybacking sequence to finish. I ran it out for some reason just enjoying the climbing and the sea crashing beneath me.
Needless to say that Stewie fell off. It was the last move almost and the apparent crux of the route. All the way up Stewie Stewie plowed in gear almost running out of runners so he thought. At a few point while he rested before a move I thought he was going to ask to be lowered off. This wasn't going happen and I was prepared to stay all day belaying if thats what it took. He made it in the end, and good effort to him for it. Even on second (and I'm not just saying this) but it was a hard pitch. I know when I reached the belay I was suffering from pumped out arms.
So originally we where heading to the slate but I wasn't inspired to climb there at all and I plummed for Wen at Gogarth. We'd set out to do it in the first place, and amazingly Toaf agreed to join us. I think the bump on the head he had recieved falling over on the scree the day before had him confused. Toaf refuses flat out to come to Gogarth, but us assuring him that it was a massive slab seemed ok. Off we went.
He climbed it fine, and brought Toaf up first. I came second and couldn't get my size 7 nut out. I was gutted as this is my favourite nut. Now was Toafs tie to shine as he down climbed and saved the nut somehow. I knew we'd brought him for a some reason.
A quick day in the peak district hunting out some limestone. So armed with my trusty yet old copy of "On Peak Rock" (date: ) Me and Ceara set out to find some limestone close to Stoke-on-Trent. With Ceara having work at 1800 we had an early start and rolled up to Alderly Cliff bathed in weak morning sun. For those who haven't been to Alderly it's a beautifel little cliff, but with a few issues. You park your car at the base of the crag, literally so you have to be quite careful about parking it sensibly.
A lazy early lunch of before we started on the next route. The next route was bill in the guidebook as a contender for the "best route on the crag?". It was called simply The Arete and went at E1 5a. It really was that good a route and possibly the best route I did the whole day. I wasn't exactly full of gear and the hold where quite polished, but instead of taking away from the route it meant you really had to concentrate on your footwork. I enjoyed it loads and kept using cheeky heel hooks to hold me just off the arete while I placed gear and rested.
