It was a fairly uneventful weekend by all accounts. There are no photographs, because although I carried my camera around all weekend I didn't really find anything worth shooting. Actually that's a lie, there is always something worth shooting, but I could be bothered to actually take the picture. It all stared as normal with a group of us drinking tea round someones student house in stoke instead of taking advantage of the early start we'd promised ourselves. We (a group consisting largely of SUMC members) headed to Castle Naze, because it's close, there is a reasonably wide berth of climbing for such a small crag and it's not the Roaches. So of the SUMC still went to the Roaches in the morning, I guess they can't get enough of the place.
Over the course of the day I ended up botching the crux on an E1 6a route (Orm and Cheep) I've done before. I messed my hands up grabbing the pocket I needed and instead of reaching across with my left, I had to cross through with my right. I couldn't commit to it so I broke the rules that govern "eliminate" routes and grabbed the HS crack so I could sort my hands out. I was pissed and I still am, because I should have read it better. To cheer myself up I soloed Icebreaker (E2 5b), again to Killian slight disbelief. Then came the grand sitting around which always seems to occur when I end up climbing with the SUMC. I think the problem stems from the fact that there are a few people who'll lead but many many more who're happy seconding. It means for the people who can lead, they can pick out a belayer and then get the route done they want, sometimes regardless of whether the belayer will get up it.
In the end I teamed up with a lad named Andy Finn and we did The Crack (VS 4b) which was great. There was good moves, good gear and a nice sense of exposure as you bridged up the sentry box. Andy also really enjoyed this route too but we had a bit of a problem while he seconded it. Andy used to tie his knot and stopper knot pretty far away from his harness. I guess tying in to your harness quite snuggly and neatly isn't something he has had drummed into him. Basically one of his roped got caught in the crack and wedged pretty tight. I had to lower him back down on the other rope. I think the main thing to take from this is I got to show him how useful double ropes were.
I did want to have a crack at Birthday Climb (HVS 5b) but finding a belayer proved a bit of a problem as half the group left to go to the outdoor show. This caused enough confusing about who was staying and who was going that the rest of us just gave up. I had a Birthday Party to attend in Stoke (one of my old uni mates). My evening was spent eating at pizza hut and watching "Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol". I am not a film critic, but I'd give it 6/10. The story was good, and acting ok and I was impressed by Tom Cruise, who seems to have gained a lot of weight (I guess he's getting old).
I had a rough night in my poor quality decathlon down sleeping bag. It's just getting a little old and abused. I still expect it to perform really well but sleeping in a student house is probably more akin to biviing out in Scottish winter. After much debate I went to Hen Cloud. Ronnie made it 2/3 of the way up great chimney before he lowered off and Killian finished it. In the mean time Ronnie belayed me up Bachelors Route (VS 4c). I've done this before, about 4 years ago but the route was a real breeze. All the moves felt right and all the gear was good. It was probably one of the most enjoyable climbing experiences I've ever had.
It wasn't the case when I jumped on Bachelors Left Hand (HVS 5b). This I got on when I was cold, tired and got feeling so great in general. To cut a reasonably short tale even shorter I got freaked out and back off after down climbing to my last piece of gear. This is the first route I've failed on this year but it's ok. It was the right decision and I'm glad I made it.
I came away from this weekend not feeling that great about climbing, but feeling really excited about what could be in store next weekend. I'm going back down to the forest of dean with Rachel (hopefully) and I'm looking to explore some more bouldering and solo/highball problems.
In the end I teamed up with a lad named Andy Finn and we did The Crack (VS 4b) which was great. There was good moves, good gear and a nice sense of exposure as you bridged up the sentry box. Andy also really enjoyed this route too but we had a bit of a problem while he seconded it. Andy used to tie his knot and stopper knot pretty far away from his harness. I guess tying in to your harness quite snuggly and neatly isn't something he has had drummed into him. Basically one of his roped got caught in the crack and wedged pretty tight. I had to lower him back down on the other rope. I think the main thing to take from this is I got to show him how useful double ropes were.
I did want to have a crack at Birthday Climb (HVS 5b) but finding a belayer proved a bit of a problem as half the group left to go to the outdoor show. This caused enough confusing about who was staying and who was going that the rest of us just gave up. I had a Birthday Party to attend in Stoke (one of my old uni mates). My evening was spent eating at pizza hut and watching "Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol". I am not a film critic, but I'd give it 6/10. The story was good, and acting ok and I was impressed by Tom Cruise, who seems to have gained a lot of weight (I guess he's getting old).
I had a rough night in my poor quality decathlon down sleeping bag. It's just getting a little old and abused. I still expect it to perform really well but sleeping in a student house is probably more akin to biviing out in Scottish winter. After much debate I went to Hen Cloud. Ronnie made it 2/3 of the way up great chimney before he lowered off and Killian finished it. In the mean time Ronnie belayed me up Bachelors Route (VS 4c). I've done this before, about 4 years ago but the route was a real breeze. All the moves felt right and all the gear was good. It was probably one of the most enjoyable climbing experiences I've ever had.
It wasn't the case when I jumped on Bachelors Left Hand (HVS 5b). This I got on when I was cold, tired and got feeling so great in general. To cut a reasonably short tale even shorter I got freaked out and back off after down climbing to my last piece of gear. This is the first route I've failed on this year but it's ok. It was the right decision and I'm glad I made it.
I came away from this weekend not feeling that great about climbing, but feeling really excited about what could be in store next weekend. I'm going back down to the forest of dean with Rachel (hopefully) and I'm looking to explore some more bouldering and solo/highball problems.
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