Today was the first day back to work and also possibly the first time I've seen 0700 for a long while. To be honest it was awesome. I had toast and a cup of tea and didn't get caught in the cross city traffic. It also smelled like autumn when I got outside. Today was a good day.
Don't worry, this post isn't going to degenerate what suddenly went badly wrong during my day. Infact my day went pretty well so far. Being back at work (even if I currently have very little to do) has been nice and it's already making me appreciate being at home. This was more of an apology to anyone who does read my blog to the lack of posting in the last 6 weeks. I have been writing honestly, but I've not been posting. I've not been out climbing as much as I normally do, due to lack of partners, bad weather and a finger injury but that hasn't stopped some awesome routes being done.
The last things that I posted over the summer (to do with climbing) was about my finger, which I managed to royally screw up. I ended up at the docters and poked, prodded and bent the finger around and confirmed my suspicions that I'd damaged my pully tendons. Infact I've managed to damage A2, A3 & A4 but it's not the end of the world. Dave Macloeds blog is pretty good for finger injuries and if you follow what he written then you'll be ok, but the main thing is stay off your finger at least for the first few weeks. It needs time to heal up and for the swelling to go down.
Then when you get back to climbing, be gentle with it. Instead of jumping on the bouldering wall and trying to crank on those powerful moves drop your grade and run laps on easier routes. It's been 8 weeks since I damaged my finger and I still suffer alot bouldering even if it's taped up well. So instead of bad sessions bouldering I just climb routes at my local wall and train for stamina instead (much better off for a trad climber anyway). I've also changed how I use my hand to grip holds. I might seem silly but a little thing like using an open hand crimp instead of a closed one, takes alot of strain off your fingers and very quickly becomes as strong as a closed crimp. Take your time with it and you'll get there eventually!
The last things that I posted over the summer (to do with climbing) was about my finger, which I managed to royally screw up. I ended up at the docters and poked, prodded and bent the finger around and confirmed my suspicions that I'd damaged my pully tendons. Infact I've managed to damage A2, A3 & A4 but it's not the end of the world. Dave Macloeds blog is pretty good for finger injuries and if you follow what he written then you'll be ok, but the main thing is stay off your finger at least for the first few weeks. It needs time to heal up and for the swelling to go down.
Then when you get back to climbing, be gentle with it. Instead of jumping on the bouldering wall and trying to crank on those powerful moves drop your grade and run laps on easier routes. It's been 8 weeks since I damaged my finger and I still suffer alot bouldering even if it's taped up well. So instead of bad sessions bouldering I just climb routes at my local wall and train for stamina instead (much better off for a trad climber anyway). I've also changed how I use my hand to grip holds. I might seem silly but a little thing like using an open hand crimp instead of a closed one, takes alot of strain off your fingers and very quickly becomes as strong as a closed crimp. Take your time with it and you'll get there eventually!
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