A damp weekend in wales (9th - 10th May)

Back to my stomping ground that is North Wales!

After a few weeks away I'd already got withdrawal symptoms so I planned to head back there. Claire came down on the friday to help me pack (watch NCIS) then we met Leanne, Dan, Sarah and Andy in Stoke of 0830 on the Saturday morning. We dived into the two cars (Leanne was driving as well) and bugged out to n.wales. The drive to n.wales was fun.

To say the weather report for the weekend wasn't great was probably accurate. Strong westerlies, couple of warm fronts and periods of scattered showers each day didn't really look too hopeful for some hard climbing. I packed a case of beer just in case anyway and an umbrella. As it happened however we managed to avoid most of the rain (for climbing in at least anyway).

Back to driving, we stopped off in Betws-y-Coed for some food, gas and New helmet for Andy (yep he's lost his old one). As we drew closer the weather looked alright but not great. Leanne, Sarah and Andy went to play on Lion Rock, whilst me, Dan and Claire went to bus stop. Non surprisingley this was a washout and the rain picked up and we headed back to Lion rock to help Leanne with her leading and belay's.

After we got rained of lion crag we headed back to the car as the weather picked up (odd!). This is when disaster (or was it) struck. Leanne locked her keys in her car! Dan had to call out the RAC and we enjoyed an afternoon of sitting in the sun waiting for them to arrive. While we waited me and Dan planned some climbing on Idwal, nievely thinking that RAC would be here in an hour. 4 hours later after planning, packing, eating tea they arrived opened the car and we headed off to Ogwen. The others headed to the pub thinking that we were mad.

So we drove to ogwen and geared up at the car. We'd planned to go fast and light, climbing in big boots. We took a whole rack, but left out belay jackets, extra water and only a small amount of food. We also left behind the heavy north wales rock guide book. We planned to head up Tennis shoe, Javlin Buttress then Continuation Crack, but we were happy to change it depending on conditions. We left at seven-ish

Arriving at the base of the Idwal we met to older guy, who were packing up to leave. Intriged by what we were doing they came over to talk to us, and imformed us that Idwal had been a waterfall only 2 hours before. Seems like the RAC had been a blessing in disguise! I headed up the first pitch (HVS 4c start) Dan took the second and we swapped leaded to the top of Idwal slabs. By now it was dusk and the light was fading. Javalin Buttress was running with water at this point, Lazarus (S 4a) was chosen instead. Between us and with some sketchy climbing we made it too the belay for the second pitch. It was soaking wet so we tried to rack the ropes to keep them dry.

As darkness took hold Dan headed out on the final pitch of Lazarus. I belayed for what seemed like ages. Eventually we both had head tourches on then Dan dissappeared around the rib, out of sight. Now I not afriad to admit it, but I'm scared of the dark, very scared. Standing all alone in the groove belay of Lazarus seemed like an enternity till Dan shouted he was safe. He took in the rope, put me on belay and then in pitch black I headed up.

By now we were cold, tired and thirsty (it just so happened we'd only brought about 700ml of water for the 2 of us). So we decided against Continuation Crack and followed the walk off and decended from Idwal, back to the car and back to camp for 1200, arriving just as the others were returning from the pub, drunk.

So we slept and woke up to rain. Just as predicted it rained on the Sunday morning. It always sounds worse when your in a tent, I'd imagined a terrible rainstorm. In fact it was just spitting. Aunty Sally arrived as we were cooking breakfast. We made a plan for the day and decided to chase the sunshine we could see over Angelesy and Holyhead. So off the Llanberis for the Gogarth North Guide then to Holyhead.

Fantastic weather, bit of wind, but it was good enough that we should probably all have had some suncream on. Me and Dan headed for King Bee Crack (HVS 5a) which althouht described as strenous in the guide wasn't that bad. The others headed down to the Sub Slab. Me and Dan headed off to met the others. He headed up Albany Lodge (E1 5b) with Sal whlist Leanne did some abseiling and took photos of Sarah and Andy on Hat (VD). Me and Claire went to find Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b). "Breaking" was a great routes, with bomber gear. Sal lead D'elephant (VD) with Dan and they came across to join us. Dan and Sal headed up a Variation of Blackfoot that they graded at VS 5a. I got on The Echoes (E3 6a), but fell off the 6a start a good few times before I gave up. Sometimes you have to try even though you know your going to fail I guess.

Giant manta rays attacked us in the car park on the way home but that didn't detract from a great weekend, especially since I didn't think we'd get any climbing done. The photos are by Me and Dan Masterman. Hopefully a video of our climb on Idwal will follow, watch this space!