A bloody good weekend in North Wales.

Annual Easter Weekend, commenerating mine and Toafs' first grand weekend away to wales!

Well the first weekend away, long ago was great. We went to Tremadog, Llanberis Pass and Idwal. We didn't even know Slate Quarries even existed. The weather oddly enought was fantasic. Since then our packs have got lighter and our climbing got harder. The weather however for subsequent years has never been as good.

So Easter '09 comes around and again we plan to head to North Wales. This time more people are invited, so a great thanks to Claires, James and Dan who made it down braving the bad weather reports. As for the weather? We all where expecting something decidedly worst than we got. I don't think that any of us expected the constant sunshine (other than friday).

Friday went well, up early (0600) picking up toaf and heading to Dobbies Garden World for James. Four people crammed in my car was a bit of a squeeze but I think we managed fine. So off we drive... Nearing Betws-y-coed we came across a couple who'd braked, skidded and mounted a barrier in thier car. So after half an hours effort and a 15ft scaffold pole we had the car off (and almost lost my balls) and where on our way again. Eventually we pass the Brenin hoping for a view of snowdon. Bah, snowdon, friday, wales? The weather was shite and the cloud base was like 800/700 metres. No views of snowdon consolidated our plan to go to pete's for breakfast (also James had not been). I think we all thought at this point that the weekend was not going to turn out great, so we resided ourselves to some extreme shopping for the day!

Thank god for changable weather! after breakfast and some shopping (new harness) we headed for the obvious choice in bad weather... Dinorwig Slate! Bus Stop Quarry was our first port of call knocking off fool's gold (E1 5a) before headin into the quarry. We tried for Shock the Monkey but it was soaked (little green plants growing and everything), so we headed to Twll Mawr to show James and ticked off Combat Rocks (E1 5b) as we were there.

Tesco's was probably our next port of call, for food and BEER! Dan met us at the Vaynol Campsite and we drank the night away.

Saturday greated us with some good weather, clear sky in all directions (except for holyhead, so gogarth was a no go). Instead we went for some Moelwyninon climbing in Craig yr Wrysgan above Tan y Grisiau. Me, James and Toaf headed up Space beneath my feet (HVS 5a), whilst Dan and Claire sent Y Gelynen (VD). After this and the walk off through the incline behind the slate quarry, I went for Condor (E1 5b) with Toaf and Claire. This was a stiff route with a gearless start but real worth it. At my belay I watched Dan and James climbing The White Streak and Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b). This fantastic route breaks up a quarzite slab then a steep corner, the crag classic.

We sat in the sun and drank beers before BBQing by the river at the base of the crag.

Dan left us Saturday evening, so those who stayed woke up to more beautifel weather on sunday. Probably a good decision we decided not to head into Llanberis Pass on an Easter Weekend. Instead after much hashing out we headed for Craig yr Ogof situated above Cwm Silyn. After a long and hard walk in (guide books lie, 40 minutes my ass) We started up Kirkus's Route (VS 4c)Kirkus's Direct (HVS 5b) (me and Claire). After a great day climbing in the sun and some fun on route (cramped or hanging belays, james dropping gear which politley landed on his bag beneath him). we took leisurely walk out with wild ponies we sat again and had some more beers in the sun. (Toaf and James) and

On the way back we just nipped into the Vivian Quarry to tick off Psychotherapy (E2 5c) and Mental lentils (HVS 5a). After scrounging together some food (chips or pasta) we finished off the beers and slept.

Well the last day comes around and well, we where all exhausted, so slate again!. Toaf and James sent Seams-the-same (VS 4c) and Seamstress (E1 5b) at Serengeti. I lay on the floor and conserved my heat and energy. We took a look at Shock the Monkey to see if it had dried off. It Hadn't so we decided to get Purple Haze (E3 5c) out of my system. After a fun start watching toaf building a belay I headed up. Placing lots of gear in loose flakes (better than nothing) and smearing on slipped slate I dropped a set of nuts (retrived them) and my chalk ball whist chalking up on the crux. I headed on up very mindfull of the fact that I couldn't have a rope lowered down and broke out onto the final slab. E3? I'd nievely thought there'd be gear for the final 15 metres but there wasn't so I ran it out knowing that I need to get the Bolts to get down.

As I happens I made it. Brought up Toaf, abseiled back down and we headed off, closing our trip to wales.