Not going climbing in a ages...

It seems like ages since I've been climbing. In reality it's probably been less than too weeks. Instead of climbing this weekend I went to slimbridge wetland centre (some picture up soon) with Becca. We looked at duck. My god there are alot of ducks in this world. We also went canoeing, in the rain, but it was totally worth it.

Then we decided it would be a good idea to go out. So Me, Claire, Toaf and Becca headed to subculture. Drinking, lots of moshing, almost breaking fingers and cutting open head ensued. Had to see a nice paramedic called Terry who taped me back together (literally, with many strips of tape of various sizes) so I could carry moshing, head banging and drinking. All in all I think that it was a good night.

But I didn't go climbing, and this is slowly eating away inside me. I've started reading guide books and dreaming or routes I want to do. Hopefully I'll get my fill of climbing in france, trouble is going to be finding something that is not sport. I'm hoping...

A week off work?

Well, its almost half term! This is great as I could do with a week off. Seriously, I think that its bad when your counting down the days till your next holiday. We break up for summer in under 9 weeks and I'm already counting down for that.

Anyway, I going to Geneva and Chamonix with Claire. We're taking all the climbing gear, as I see no point in a holiday that doesn't involve climbing. I'm going to hunt down some trad climbing as well. Hopefully it'll be a good trip and there'll be great weather.

Failing that we'll eat good cheese and get drunk on good wine!

A blessing in disguise...

This it the video from mine and Dan's climbing on Idwal. Sorry about the language but I couldn't edit it out as yet.

"The best climber is the one having the most fun"

Alex Lowe said this. He was good climber, well actually he was a great climber. Summiting Everest twice and putting up a new route on Trango Tower (5.11 A4), with others. He was killed on Shishipagma by an avalanche. I'm sure its easy to say the best climber is the one having the most fun when your at the top of your game, but I'd like to think he really meant it.

I went bouldering last night after work. Work was very bad, so I didn't have a great day. Newport bouldering centre is great. Seems to have loads of problems for such a small centre. I hope that they reset them quite often as I does have the potential to be exhausted over a few sessions. Its not too far too drive so I'll probably try and head there once a week (might even drag Toaf along). Anyway, so I went bouldering.

I'm not saying that I'm like a super hard climber or anything, but I'm sort of used to climbing the hardest among my group of mates I normally climb with.

Tonight I was pants. I couldn't do half the problems everyone else seemed to do, and just seemed to spend my night failing on problems. I thought about that quote while I was there. I'd have assumed that I would have been really frustrated and start feeling beaten (I'm pretty competetive). Instead I had a great time and really enjoyed myself. I spent my time concentrating on pushing myself as aposed to competing against others.

End of the day it doesn't matter what you climb. I guess the best climber is the one having the most fun, I know I was.

A damp weekend in wales (9th - 10th May)

Back to my stomping ground that is North Wales!

After a few weeks away I'd already got withdrawal symptoms so I planned to head back there. Claire came down on the friday to help me pack (watch NCIS) then we met Leanne, Dan, Sarah and Andy in Stoke of 0830 on the Saturday morning. We dived into the two cars (Leanne was driving as well) and bugged out to n.wales. The drive to n.wales was fun.

To say the weather report for the weekend wasn't great was probably accurate. Strong westerlies, couple of warm fronts and periods of scattered showers each day didn't really look too hopeful for some hard climbing. I packed a case of beer just in case anyway and an umbrella. As it happened however we managed to avoid most of the rain (for climbing in at least anyway).

Back to driving, we stopped off in Betws-y-Coed for some food, gas and New helmet for Andy (yep he's lost his old one). As we drew closer the weather looked alright but not great. Leanne, Sarah and Andy went to play on Lion Rock, whilst me, Dan and Claire went to bus stop. Non surprisingley this was a washout and the rain picked up and we headed back to Lion rock to help Leanne with her leading and belay's.

After we got rained of lion crag we headed back to the car as the weather picked up (odd!). This is when disaster (or was it) struck. Leanne locked her keys in her car! Dan had to call out the RAC and we enjoyed an afternoon of sitting in the sun waiting for them to arrive. While we waited me and Dan planned some climbing on Idwal, nievely thinking that RAC would be here in an hour. 4 hours later after planning, packing, eating tea they arrived opened the car and we headed off to Ogwen. The others headed to the pub thinking that we were mad.

So we drove to ogwen and geared up at the car. We'd planned to go fast and light, climbing in big boots. We took a whole rack, but left out belay jackets, extra water and only a small amount of food. We also left behind the heavy north wales rock guide book. We planned to head up Tennis shoe, Javlin Buttress then Continuation Crack, but we were happy to change it depending on conditions. We left at seven-ish

Arriving at the base of the Idwal we met to older guy, who were packing up to leave. Intriged by what we were doing they came over to talk to us, and imformed us that Idwal had been a waterfall only 2 hours before. Seems like the RAC had been a blessing in disguise! I headed up the first pitch (HVS 4c start) Dan took the second and we swapped leaded to the top of Idwal slabs. By now it was dusk and the light was fading. Javalin Buttress was running with water at this point, Lazarus (S 4a) was chosen instead. Between us and with some sketchy climbing we made it too the belay for the second pitch. It was soaking wet so we tried to rack the ropes to keep them dry.

As darkness took hold Dan headed out on the final pitch of Lazarus. I belayed for what seemed like ages. Eventually we both had head tourches on then Dan dissappeared around the rib, out of sight. Now I not afriad to admit it, but I'm scared of the dark, very scared. Standing all alone in the groove belay of Lazarus seemed like an enternity till Dan shouted he was safe. He took in the rope, put me on belay and then in pitch black I headed up.

By now we were cold, tired and thirsty (it just so happened we'd only brought about 700ml of water for the 2 of us). So we decided against Continuation Crack and followed the walk off and decended from Idwal, back to the car and back to camp for 1200, arriving just as the others were returning from the pub, drunk.

So we slept and woke up to rain. Just as predicted it rained on the Sunday morning. It always sounds worse when your in a tent, I'd imagined a terrible rainstorm. In fact it was just spitting. Aunty Sally arrived as we were cooking breakfast. We made a plan for the day and decided to chase the sunshine we could see over Angelesy and Holyhead. So off the Llanberis for the Gogarth North Guide then to Holyhead.

Fantastic weather, bit of wind, but it was good enough that we should probably all have had some suncream on. Me and Dan headed for King Bee Crack (HVS 5a) which althouht described as strenous in the guide wasn't that bad. The others headed down to the Sub Slab. Me and Dan headed off to met the others. He headed up Albany Lodge (E1 5b) with Sal whlist Leanne did some abseiling and took photos of Sarah and Andy on Hat (VD). Me and Claire went to find Breaking the Barrier (E1 5b). "Breaking" was a great routes, with bomber gear. Sal lead D'elephant (VD) with Dan and they came across to join us. Dan and Sal headed up a Variation of Blackfoot that they graded at VS 5a. I got on The Echoes (E3 6a), but fell off the 6a start a good few times before I gave up. Sometimes you have to try even though you know your going to fail I guess.

Giant manta rays attacked us in the car park on the way home but that didn't detract from a great weekend, especially since I didn't think we'd get any climbing done. The photos are by Me and Dan Masterman. Hopefully a video of our climb on Idwal will follow, watch this space!

Wrekin M.C. Trip to Cornwall 2nd - 4th May

It started with a phone call on Monday night. I’d decided that Cornwall was a long way to drive, especially for only three days. So we (Me, Claire and Toaf) were going to head to Pembrokeshire instead. Stewie rang and started with “so you're coming to Cornwall this weekend?” I retorted “it’s a long way to drive…” and was swiftly cut off. “You missunderstand mate, that wasn’t question, it was a statement. You’re coming to Cornwall. Anyway the granite is brilliant, you’ll love it”. That was it. We were going to Cornwall.

We headed down on the Friday night, late to avoid traffic. Later than we hoped as it turned out as Claire got caught up. Anyway off for 2015 ish with one stop (at which some nice dude gave us another 4 beers in the service station car park) and arrived at about 0100 ish. Just under 5 hours isn’t bad at all, but the drive down was tiring with idiot drivers a some creepy fog to contend with, and Claire's sarcasm. "Its called gravity dumbass!" was the response I got when I complained that the car was slowing whilst going up hill. We were in bed by 2am.

Bed for 2am only to woken by a bout of tent shaking at 0630 by Uncle Rob. I got up much to Claires annoyance to wake up everyone else and to get a brew on. Eventually everyone surfaced and we had a big communal breakfast and a plan for the day. Carn Barra was chosen as it was a little out of the way.

Well Carn Barra was a no go, we got there abseiled in and then the ocean decided not to play. Massive waves crashed all around Stewie and Toaf who hurriedly climbed out. I think we where all surprised to see that they'd escaped a soaking! After blowing our early start we headed for Senne Cove. Choice crag for every uni m.c. in the area.

Sennen Cove was actually quiet, well the good climbing area was anyway. We managed to avoid the mountaineering clubs quite well. Me, Claire and Sal bombed up a slab on the broken ground. Toaf & Mick headed up Dolphin cracks (HVS 5a) whilst Rob & Stewie did Hayloft (VS 4c). At the bags, Toaf and Stewie dissappeared off to do another route. Me & Rob nipped up Slim (VS 5a). For my first granite route I enjoyed it. It was different climbing to other rock types, but not in a bad way. Claire had taken Robs rack and done either Juniors or Senious route (VD) with Sal. I think Robs rack was abit of a shock to her, she's wasn't impressed. Stewie and Toaf had still not returned at this point, but not to worry. Me and Sal did Monday Face (VS 4c). Guide said it was lacking in gear. This wasn't the case and I sewed it up, hooking chicken head the finish. The climbing was also awesome, probably the best route of the weekend. Stewie and Toaf finally returned, with Rob in tow after doing Dolphin Cracks again and Slanting Cracks (HVS 5a). As the final route of the day, me and Claire snuck off to do The Quaker (E1 5c). I decked before the first peice of gear, but claire physically caught me (thank god) and then went on to lead it. Its a great route.

A good meal and a night of drinking followed in the local pub. Doom bar, Honey and Tipple where the drinks of choice. Stewie also javalined a plastic tube at me after me and rob used 4 12ft poles to fence with (obviously a bad idea!). The two gay barmen provided much amusement!. Eventualy it whilttled away to me, Rob and Stewie. Toaf walked the wrong way home drunk!. And there was some clapping sounds in the night (for those who know). Another early start and we'd decided on Bosigran today. May as well tick off both the popular locations in one trip right?. I for one was very hungover.

Me, Toaf and Mick did Trapeze (HVS 5a), Claire and Sal went up Inbetween (VD) and Stewie and Rob did Anvil Chorus (VS 4c). When we got down, me and Mick roped togethet and tied off some coils and followed Toaf as he soloed up Inbetween (VD) and Big Top (VD). We just moved together. Coming down I chewed down some painkillers and rested in the sun. Me, Toaf and Mick then did Anvil chorus (with ledge climb as a start). We climbed as fast as we could to get ahead of the slow uni groups, then had some interesting ropework. I've never seen so many people on a cliff. Stewie and Rob did Trapeze whilst Claire and Sal did . Once down I geared up for Visions of Johanna (E1 5b). What a great route! Toaf and Claire came up this and we finished up Little Brown Jug (VS 5a). The first pitch was great slabby climbing on untrustworthy gear.

Me and Stewie then looked for another hard climb, but after backing of Thin Wall special (E1 5b) (Bad juju) and heading up Bow wall (E2 5c) (anf backing off again) thinking it was doorpost (HS) I was done for the day. So was everyone else so we headed back for some much needed food.

Everyone headed to the pub bar me, Toaf and Claire who wanted to cook. But me and Toaf headed down later for some late night drinking. There were no clapping sounds this night. The morning rolled around and everyone seemed a little subdued. The weather had become overcast so Stewie and Rob headed home. Me, Claire, Mick, Toaf and Sal wen back to Sennon Cove. Seemed like a good idea. Toaf did The Quaker with mick seconding, while me and Sal did Corner Crack (HS 4c). After a big guide book consult Me, Claire and Sal picked Slippery Slab to do, we ab'd in and made our way to the bottom. Tradition of sea cliff climbing with me and Claire is that we always get wet by the sea. Tradtion followed and all three of us ended up with wet legs. Quick climbing prevailed and we did Slippery Chute (VS 4c) instead. This seemed fitting end to our Cornwall trip.

We headed back to the cars then went questing for pasties and ice cream before hitting to long drive home. 5 and a half hours later we where back in b'ham (after cooking up noodles in the service station car park, much to Toaf dismay)
(Photos by Claire, Me and Toaf)

Froggat - a day out in the peak!

Well the weather didn't looks so great in my normal stomping ground (north wales) so after a few phone calls and plans the peak was decided on.

Claire came down to mine on the friday night, and we woke for an early start tp pick up Andy, Ceara and Dan in Stoke. Clearly 0630 was too early to head off as Dan wasn't out of bed when we got there (a festival of stone throwing at his window and ringin his mobile ensued). That said 10 minutes later he was packed and read to go. This was good as he had the Froggat guide!

5 people crammed into Jess (my car) and off we rolled. The weather report for the peak was found wanting and I think we were all expecting to get rained off the crag. As we drove, the clouds darkened and the rain pourer. We tried in vain to out run it. That said when we arrived at the car park, it was dry. The clouds still loomed however.

Well it did rain, but only a little bit on the walk in. I hid under my map with Ceara (as its a well known fact that girlies dissolve in the rain). Then it stopped and we had glorious clear skys all day. We had not brought the suncream either! It took a few abortive attempts to find the first climbs, we should probably have read the guide book but it made for an interesting walk. Eventually we came on Strapiombante (E1 5b) with the overhanging roof of Strapiombo (E1 5b). Dan dived on the lead of Strapiombante and I gear headed up for Strapiombo. I think both these climbs suited us. I like burly painful cracks and Dan's much better at technique.

I didn't make it first time. I missed the small hold that helps you round the lip and my strenght gave out. I fell off (all off about 2 inches) and lower off to have another go. As I did I watch Dan whip around the arete of Strapiombante as he'd slipped off the finaly move. He was alright but it looked a pretty nasty fall. Got to give it to the guy he got straight back on.

In the meantime I finally made it up Strapiombo. I'm not going to bore anyone with how great that route is, but seriously people should climb it. I also managed to get my foot stuck, that was a laugh.

Back to Strapiombante and Dan. He said himself that his head wasn't with it on the day. I watched him take that whipper 5 times before he admitted defeat. I went up and finished the route. It was really bloody hard the last move so I'm not sure how I would have faired on the lead.

We headed over to Sunset Slab after for Sunset slab (HVS 4b) (Dan and Claire, whilst I soloed up afterwards) and Sunset Crack (HS 4c) (Andy and Ceara). Both great routes then I got myself all upside down in another roof crack but it was too hard and I backed off.

Tody's Wall (HVS 5a) was our next stop, which Dan said I should lead. They all waited eagerly for my to salmon onto the block, but I managed without. The hell hook was great and the slab and crack to finshed make it one of the best routes I've ever done. Got to thank Dan for suggesting I lead it.

Our final routes of the day were Valkyrie (HVS 5a). If this is HVS 5a then tody's wall is only a 4C. I jammed up the crack with some difficulty to the belay (which is crap by the way) then Dan headed up the finish. I didn't envy him at all when I seconded it. The we had to abseil off to our amusement!.

We congragated below diamond crack (HS 4b) to end the day and I lead it with Andy. We enjoyed beers in the late afternoon sun so ending a great day out on grit.

(Pictures on Dans camera, either by Ceara or Dan)

A bloody good weekend in North Wales.

Annual Easter Weekend, commenerating mine and Toafs' first grand weekend away to wales!

Well the first weekend away, long ago was great. We went to Tremadog, Llanberis Pass and Idwal. We didn't even know Slate Quarries even existed. The weather oddly enought was fantasic. Since then our packs have got lighter and our climbing got harder. The weather however for subsequent years has never been as good.

So Easter '09 comes around and again we plan to head to North Wales. This time more people are invited, so a great thanks to Claires, James and Dan who made it down braving the bad weather reports. As for the weather? We all where expecting something decidedly worst than we got. I don't think that any of us expected the constant sunshine (other than friday).

Friday went well, up early (0600) picking up toaf and heading to Dobbies Garden World for James. Four people crammed in my car was a bit of a squeeze but I think we managed fine. So off we drive... Nearing Betws-y-coed we came across a couple who'd braked, skidded and mounted a barrier in thier car. So after half an hours effort and a 15ft scaffold pole we had the car off (and almost lost my balls) and where on our way again. Eventually we pass the Brenin hoping for a view of snowdon. Bah, snowdon, friday, wales? The weather was shite and the cloud base was like 800/700 metres. No views of snowdon consolidated our plan to go to pete's for breakfast (also James had not been). I think we all thought at this point that the weekend was not going to turn out great, so we resided ourselves to some extreme shopping for the day!

Thank god for changable weather! after breakfast and some shopping (new harness) we headed for the obvious choice in bad weather... Dinorwig Slate! Bus Stop Quarry was our first port of call knocking off fool's gold (E1 5a) before headin into the quarry. We tried for Shock the Monkey but it was soaked (little green plants growing and everything), so we headed to Twll Mawr to show James and ticked off Combat Rocks (E1 5b) as we were there.

Tesco's was probably our next port of call, for food and BEER! Dan met us at the Vaynol Campsite and we drank the night away.

Saturday greated us with some good weather, clear sky in all directions (except for holyhead, so gogarth was a no go). Instead we went for some Moelwyninon climbing in Craig yr Wrysgan above Tan y Grisiau. Me, James and Toaf headed up Space beneath my feet (HVS 5a), whilst Dan and Claire sent Y Gelynen (VD). After this and the walk off through the incline behind the slate quarry, I went for Condor (E1 5b) with Toaf and Claire. This was a stiff route with a gearless start but real worth it. At my belay I watched Dan and James climbing The White Streak and Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b). This fantastic route breaks up a quarzite slab then a steep corner, the crag classic.

We sat in the sun and drank beers before BBQing by the river at the base of the crag.

Dan left us Saturday evening, so those who stayed woke up to more beautifel weather on sunday. Probably a good decision we decided not to head into Llanberis Pass on an Easter Weekend. Instead after much hashing out we headed for Craig yr Ogof situated above Cwm Silyn. After a long and hard walk in (guide books lie, 40 minutes my ass) We started up Kirkus's Route (VS 4c)Kirkus's Direct (HVS 5b) (me and Claire). After a great day climbing in the sun and some fun on route (cramped or hanging belays, james dropping gear which politley landed on his bag beneath him). we took leisurely walk out with wild ponies we sat again and had some more beers in the sun. (Toaf and James) and

On the way back we just nipped into the Vivian Quarry to tick off Psychotherapy (E2 5c) and Mental lentils (HVS 5a). After scrounging together some food (chips or pasta) we finished off the beers and slept.

Well the last day comes around and well, we where all exhausted, so slate again!. Toaf and James sent Seams-the-same (VS 4c) and Seamstress (E1 5b) at Serengeti. I lay on the floor and conserved my heat and energy. We took a look at Shock the Monkey to see if it had dried off. It Hadn't so we decided to get Purple Haze (E3 5c) out of my system. After a fun start watching toaf building a belay I headed up. Placing lots of gear in loose flakes (better than nothing) and smearing on slipped slate I dropped a set of nuts (retrived them) and my chalk ball whist chalking up on the crux. I headed on up very mindfull of the fact that I couldn't have a rope lowered down and broke out onto the final slab. E3? I'd nievely thought there'd be gear for the final 15 metres but there wasn't so I ran it out knowing that I need to get the Bolts to get down.

As I happens I made it. Brought up Toaf, abseiled back down and we headed off, closing our trip to wales.

Weekend Review – 18th -19th March Tremadog Festival

Well instead of heading out for a late Friday night, I was persuaded to rein it in and leave for an early Sunday morning. After spending most of the week cooped up indoors I was going a little crazy, I needed out. However like the rest of us I wasn’t too hopefully with the current weather. Thankfully, it cleared up greatly and the forecast looked good fro the entire weekend. We made plans to head up Sunday morning early, and then camp over at Eric’s.

Out of complete boredom on Friday, I had the kit packed, food sorted (like chopped and grated in little bags) and the car packed up, fuelled and ready to go. As you can imagine I was pretty god damn bored. I spent the rest of the day discussing rationing and food with my grandma whilst waiting on Claire.

0615, later than my usual waking point, but since the car is packed and there is nothing much to do where on our way for 0645, me and Claire that is. We rock up to Toafs’ house and notice his car isn’t actually there. This obviously triggered alarm bells and a few phone calls later we discovered he was still in Bewdley and had not actually got up. Never mind. We were only going gardening for the day. Brews followed and Toaf eventually returned home and we where on our way to wales!

We took a different route to Tremadog, basically one I haven’t travelled on before. We took the B4410 just after Pentrefos (for those who want to know). It tracks right though a wilderness of the welsh upland plain. The place was fantastic with this little road winding in and out (and up and down) of the landscape. There were tracks disappearing off everywhere but there never seemed like anywhere they could be going. Anyway it convinced me that I need to suck it up and get the Myinondd guide book and start exploring Wales some more.

Anyway we ended up at Eric’s Café at about 11 and bumbled around unsure of what to do. For those who haven’t been it’s a pretty simple set up. There a list of routes that need clearing and you pick one within your grade, climb it and clean it. We gathered our gardening equipment around us and set off the do battle with Belshazzar (HVS 5a/5b, depending on the variation taken). Toaf took the first pitch and me and Claire, diligently hacked away all the ivy and brushed off all the lichen from the route. I then took the Second pitch and decimated some ivy. Then took the 5b variation and sat belaying on some sun kissed rock. Guide plates are the best thing in the word I decided as I slowly brought up Toaf and Claire whilst they cleaned and brushed the pitch.

The final pitch was Claires lead, but as to where exactly it went meant Toaf just bombed up some easy ground and anchored to the top. He brought up Claire and then left me to literally dig out the final pitch, which proved quite fun. After half an hour’s good effort, the final pitch is now obvious. That said the route still needed a good brush off so we went to commandeer a broom. As it happened all the brooms where out and the BMC guy told us we’d done a good job and just to have some fun and climb anything.

After much lazing in the sun and indecision we settled on Salamander (HVS 5a). A long ramp to a stepped belay then a loose block (big enough to squish Claire!) and a thin crack to the top. This happened to be steep Tremadog climbing at it’s best and defiantly worth the 5a for the second pitch. The route felt insecure but run out’s weren’t bad. Also there proved a thank god hold on the final section (I’m sure I would have been off if it had not been there). We quickly dispatched this route, and then headed down as we where all ready late for the festivities.

After leaving the bags dumped outside the car, where managed to catch the end of the raffle (Toaf got a Lakes map, me and Claire got nothing!). We puzzled a while over how to get at the free beer. After watching several empty glasses go into the barn over the road and coming out full, me and Toaf headed over to investigate. As it happened the guy with the pint glasses was at the table we where originally standing in front of and I chipped in for the bolt fund and got a few. Thankfully we got taught how to use the kegs (I’m sure ale would have gone everywhere otherwise) and started knocking them back. Needless to say, I’m still not sure how many we had (or at least I had). A whole day in the sun with little water meant we were all knocked for 6.

The we started bouldering. The beer barn had a bouldering room and I’ll happily admit I achieve nothing! (other than some handjamming) as I was drunk. Managed to cut my hands up as well. After a good laugh falling off we headed to up the tents up and get some food. Some corona and food followed and we all fell happily and drunkenly asleep in out tent after watching (and grumbling about) the giant bon fire.

Sunday rolled around and again we where greeted with excellent weather. We puzzled a while about where to go, especially since none of could remember where we planned to go the night before whilst we where drunk. We headed for Craig Yr Gesail, but as we passed the parking for Craig Pant Ifan’s Upper Tier, I made a driver over-ride decision and we parked up. Mindfull of the Plas-Y-Brenin bus, but spured on by the lack of other parked there we headed up. We had an aim for the day. Meirionydd is a E1 6a testpiece, which both me and Toaf wanted on lead. The walk up as steep but beautiful, and we arrived to find only a few people on the crag and the brenin top roping some routes. The instructor happily greeted us, whilst hanging around taking photos and said if they where top-roping anything we wanted to lead, then they’d move. He was really nice and welcoming, needless we settled under the shade of some trees beneath Meirionydd and nursed our hangovers.

Neither me or Toaf have lead or seconded a 6a outdoors before. Toaf went off the start soloing severes whilst I lazed and mentally prepared myself for the route. It’s a boulder problem start, but with the crux high enough to damage an ankle but there good gear, if you can hang around to place it.

Claire set out to belay me and Toaf took this opportunity to practise his photography (for once!). Anyway I headed up, placing a few bit of gear early on. I’m happy to admit that it spat me off a couple of times and I decked out (the gear sort of caught as I hit the floor) but eventually I got the sequence sorted and went to the jug. Now this jug was just big enough for 3 fingers to hang off. As I got it, but feet popped of their holds (or smears depending on how you look at it) and I thought I was off again.

I wasn’t and I got my feet back on and powered up to the ledge. From there I arranged some good gear and headed up the final slab. This was run out and badley protected at about 5b+. But it seamed easy after the start to I bombed up this to finish. Not bad for my First 6a I thought.

Claire seconded this, with Toaf photographing again and we relaxed on the top for a while, enjoying the cool breeze and planning our next objective. This happened to be Rammer’s Route (VS 5a) and I started up just as one of the top ropers had finished it. The instructor politely (and cheerfully) enquired as to whether I minded if photos where taken. Of course I didn’t and carried on up the route while he snapped away. At the top while I was bringing Claire up, he offered to bring up Toaf on the other rope (he was being impatient down the bottom) and I asked him if he could send me the photos. He told me he’d put them on his blog, lifeinthevertical.blogspot.com. (For those of you who don’t know this is Mark Reeves blog, a mountaineering instructor based in n.wales, bolter and bolt replacer of the slate quarries and Local BMC guy). As it happened it was him and we all had a good talk about the weekend and climbing in general, He seemed like a great guy. Later we checked and he had uploaded some photos of me and Toaf onto his Blog.

After this we looked over Goop, noted as 6b in the guide (ascend the old peg crack) after Mark had told us where it was, and warned us about the crap landing (UKC added an E4 to this grade). We bouldered the start a little, discussed what gear we would need (a variety of small cams, and a good deal of hope) but didn’t have, and then decided it was defiantly a project for another day (once Toaf had brought a bouldering mat for the crap landing).

We journeyed back to our encampment at the base of Meirionydd settling to enjoy some lunch and muse over the guide book. Claire decided some leading was in order, but after much faff, I ended up heading up Myomancy (HVS 5b). This I majorly floundered on, and thoughts of escape onto Madog went through my mind. Instead I rested on a bad hold and finished up the final crack onto the eaiser ground, arriving to find the belay in position of someone else. We chatted for a while till he brought up his partner and relinquished the belay. We then headed down and flaked the ropes for Claires’ lead.

She choose Mistook (VS 4c) which took an area of amazing bubbled volcanic rock, with little striations for protection, leading onto a slanting hand jam crack to finish. Claire sailed up, sinking in protection and paused at the crux (jamming crack). She’s not much a fan of hand jamming, and this route required committing to a solid jam and moving up on it. She back up her protection, looked down nervously and then headed up, with no problems I may add. After a long while she called she was safe and brought up me and Toaf, and I arrived last, festooned with her placed gear, revelling in the fantastic jamming on the crack. Toaf headed off left to collect the gear from at the base of the route, and me and Claire headed off right, to meet Toaf below Meirionydd. He’d decided to lead it.

So we found ourselves at the base of Meirionydd with Toaf tying onto the rope, Claire standing ready to belay, and me spotting. He headed up (skipping placing the two low bits that I had had in, they’re so low you deck out anyway, and I was spotting him) and place a good wire. Then came the crux and we all spent a while reworking out how to do it after each fall. Claire seemed to have her head screwed on most and eventually Toaf pulled it off and shakily carried on up. At the belay I met him and congratulated him and he set about bring up Claire and Me. Claire sailed up with no problems (probably her 2^nd redpoint), I however faffed and couldn’t work out my sequence!. Eventually I topped out and we sorted the ropes out and lay on the top.

Fancy a Beer I asked as I pulled three chilled bottles out of a clump of grass near by. Claire laughed at me doing this and we sat on the top drinking cold beer in the strong evening sun. A guy topped out next to us, and I’ve never seen such a look of jealously as us three drinking beer on the rim after a great day out.