Another winter route...

Get in! Another winter route! but in the Lakes this time! I was supposed to be meeting Andy on the sunday and as Tim was suddenly free I invited him along. Tim owns a pair of crampons and some B2 (ish) boots but no axes. Well no axes no problem as we borrowed a pair of a friend and set off for a long day in the lakes from B'ham.

0540, wake up, roll out of bed and wake up Tim. Twenty minutes later he's defrosting the ice off the inside of my windscreen while I'm scraping it off the outside of the car thinking that if it's cold enough down here in Brum for an ice covered car, how cold will it be in the lakes! About 40 minutes later we arrived at Tims to pack some of his kit, and for me to re-adjust my headlight bulb which had fallen out of the holder. Finally we set off on the long haul to Glenridding to meet Andy. 

The journey was relatively uneventful, even Kirkstone Pass had no ice on it (thankfully) and we made our rendevous for 10am at the car park. Here we hashed out a load of different idea's about what to do for the day. We didn't really know what the conditions were going to be like for climbing. From what we'd see there wasn't as much snow as expected. I knew for a report I'd found from the epiccentre that we'd have to go as high as we could to find anything worth climbing on. Also I was worried about Tim's boots for hard ice. In the end we figured that we'd pack a light rack and a single rope and head for striding edge as an objective, but take a single axe each and crampons in case we found a gully that was in. It seems like a "cover all bases" sort of plan.

Armed with a plan and loads of enthuiasm off we set. I'd completly forgotten how long that walk in to striding edge is (not the only thing I'd forgotten). I was knackered and sweating like nobodies buisness with thoughts running round in my head laong the lines of "your not fit enough for scotland" " you need to get out and do more exercise" etc. Added to this I had my thermal trousers on thinking it was going to be really cold... they were soon removed. I found my pace soon enough. 

As we walked in we gleaned conditions reports from more eager peaple (and whose who clearly hadn't had a three hour drive) who were on thier way down. Apparently things on Red Tarn Cove were not looking that bad. We soon rounded a corner and had the whole of the Helvelyn area in view (Striding edge, Red Tarn Cove and Swirral Edge) and could see what was in. We identified a long snowed up gully that ran from base to summit with what looked like a little area of difficulity around 3/4 height. This the guidebook told us was the inspiringly named Gully 2 a grade I gully. Finally we had an aim for the day. 

The walk into the cove was simply beautiful. It wasn't too cold and it's nice and flat, something that you can really enjoy. Mostly you can't see a town or road at all and the silence is very calming. We we stopped for a spot to eat at the nearside of the tarn I realised that I'd forgotten my harness. It was one of those moments when you can completly visualise all the events that lead up to me leaving my harness in my other bag, in the boot of the car. Well we just added it to the list of forgotten kit for the day (2 belay devices and a helmet as well). It was just as well that we were doing a grade 1 gully because hopefully we'd need no extra kit. 

We walked to a little snowfeild at the base of the route to crampon up and practise some basic technique like different ways of walking up slope and some ice axes arrests. Then we had at the route making swift progress up the neve and taking adventage of the steps left by parties before us. As we moved up we had to dodge some large lumps of ice from a couple of guys climbing on a ice route next to us. Then we avoided a couple descending our route. We made good progress up the route stopping off at little steps of ice to show Tim some more or different techniques until we got to the ice step. 

Here I nipped up it first, and Andy second. I then gave Tim my axe and posistioned myself to shoot some film and pictures while Tim delt with the difficulities. He managed them just fine and soon we were flying up the final slope to top out. Again I went a little off route to shoot a few more nice photos. We summited and enjoyed the orange glow of the afternoon sun as it broke through the clouds. It was one of those truly beautifel moments when the world was bathed in an orange light. After congratulations and a quick brew we set off towards our descent... Striding edge! It seemed like the most obvious option to make a real long day out of it.  

We went for it and it was awesome. The hardest part was actaully descending off the Helveyln plateau because of the small amount of hard snow present. The edge was a clear of snow and ice so was pretty easy. I was horrified at all the crampons scratches we could see on the rocks as we made our way across. I can't believe that someone would feel the need to wear crampons across an edge not covered in snow. Striding edge petered out and we rejoined the path we'd walked in on to take us back to the cars, with a pit stop in the pub on the way. 

I learnt loads on this day out. From simple things like double checking that my bag is packed up properly so I don't forget my harness to how much climbing is possible in crampons and just a simple walking axe.

Lakes 14th - 15th

Bit of a wash out this weekend. Although at least we got out on the hill. The plan was for an easy route on Scarfell Buttress. As for actually climbing it would have been hell as it was wet and dark so we called it a day. Thankfully it started raining just after justifiying our decision. High light of the weekend was probably the cumberland sausage and 4 pints we enjoyed in the Wasdale Head Inn. I also manage to forget my roll mat this weekend. After telling Susie what a n00b she was for not even bringing out it seems fitting that I should forget mine. Improvisation was the name of the game and I slept on my uncoiled ropes. I got a surprisily good night sleep, but I think it had more to do with the 4 pints than the "comfy" bed.

Lakeland rock with the Wrekin MC

A relaxing weekend in the Lake District. It was supposed to be at the Toc-H hut, but through some very dodgy dealing apparently its been sold, and the club had to fight to get any money back! Instead we were based at the national trust campsite, somewhere I've never stayed before. At £7.50 a night I expected it to be quite good. My expectations were fulfilled with excellent toliets, washing/showering facilities and great pitches. It was also only 5 minutes from the pub (clearly a major selling point). Sadly I only made it up for the saturday morning and missed what sounded like a good night down the pub on the friday.

A day on Pavey...I'd planned to climb with Sally on Pavey Ark on the Saturday. This had all been arranged over a few text messages and a good weather report. I arrived at 0845 and found some of the club seemed a little worse for wear from the for mentioned Friday night. There were groups heading out walking for the day another heading out for a 7 pitch VD on Bowfell Buttress. Me and Sally stuck with our plan and packed up the car shamelessly driving 5 minutes down the road to the New Dungeon Ghyll car park to start our day. I really need to start walking more as my climbing generated carbon footprint must be massive. We set off up the motorway of a path up to Pavey Ark.

Its a stiff little climb, but I think I'm a little out of shape (too many kit-kats at work). Still I think me and Sal managed it in under the hour. Annoyingly neither of us had a bothered to look at what time we sert off we'd left so don't accurately know how long it took. I've never been to Pavey before, always writing it off due to the walk in, which is odd because it really isn't that bad. I'd chosen to do 2 climbs, one below the Jack's Rake and the second above it. Instead of carrying all our stuff to the base of the climb, we cached it at the end of the rake as this was our descent route.

The nicely named Crescent Slabs (S) was our first climb. I have not climbing with Sally in ages or on Pavey either so I thought this would get us used to each other climbing and get me used to the rock. I was block leading the whole day, with Sally happy to second so we'd brought my rack. I'd ditched the 1,2 & 3 cam in favour of a 1.5, 2.5 & 3.5. In retrospect this was a bad decision. I would have been better just taking either all of them or a 1 to 2.5 (including the half sizes). You live and learn I guess. This would be a good time to mention Sal's only piece of gear she'd brought with her. Its an CCH Alien she'd had for about 8 years. Its just smaller than a size 1.5 but she made me carry it and said I had to place it on route. This little cam turned out the be a crucial runner on several of the pitches that day, good little alien.

Crescent slabs wasn't really hard climbing, but there's not much to say about it. Pitches 1 & 3 had good climbing on them, but 2 & 4 were either jungle bashing or just plain scrambling. Still it was an enjoyable route and a good introduction to Pavey. On the rake we wondered round for a while trying to find the start of the next route (Golden Slipper HVS 5a), hampered by the less than ideal topo and description. Obviously we found it and I started off up a ramp which soon ended up with me on an overhanging crack line doing some sort of bridging with my feet and laybacking with my hands. I stuffed in a cam and moved up, slung a spike and topped out on the next ledge. I wasn't expecting something so big to be honest. A good 1.5 cam and a tree provided a more than adequate belay. I yelled Sal up and she climbed it well considering she doesn't have much arm strenght.

Now this next pitch was to be our crux for the day. At 5a it shouldn't have been a problem (and it wasn't) but the guide book said "protection is available for the deligent". Now I must not be the only person who reads that as "no gear" or "rediculiously hard to place gear"? I set off with all this in mind and started putting in runners as soon as I could, expecting to run out further up. The route took a sweeping buttress with slab start but a steeper wall to finish. In the middle was a slight corner to follow before breaking out across the wall. Like I said I'd been taking advantage of gear where I found it, but I'd only taken 8 runners with me in a effort to save weight. I started running it out a little as the rock was so good you could almost get a handhold anywhere and as for footholds, I think it had more friction that grit!. After running it out a little, I spotted a great crack for a piece of gear and guess what fitted? Sal's little alien sat perfectly in it. The climbing was still about hard 4c on little edges at this point, so happy with my cam placement I carried on up, finding more little slots here and there. By deligent I can only assume that that placements where just not obvious and took some thinking, whilst hanging to "2 finger wide" ledges. The 5a section came as you crossed the wall, and all I could place was a really bad little wired hex. Not to worry as a better piece soon presented itself and I topped out on to a easy slab to the belay. I belayed so I could see Sal climb this and keep and eye on her. She had no problems at all (less than the 4c first pitch). We agreed that it was simply such a good pitch of great climbing, no doubt I'll be going back to do that again.

We'd left our belay jackets or fleeces at the base of the route as it was so warm, but the sun had been behind a cloud for a while and a bitter breeze filled the air. We quickly set off up the last 4a pitch, just a glorified scramble than anything else and we ended up just scrambling off roped together. After a quick chewey bar we headed to the top of Jack's rake. I've never done this scramble before, but its not hard even in descent. I had to wait at couple of points when people coming up barred the way but all in all we made it down pretty quickly. We gathered all our gear from around the base of the crag and got to the bags to decided what we'd do next. As it happened all the other VS climbs where occupied with people climbing slowly or waiting. The sun had also dissappeared behind Harrison Sickle at this point and it was getting cold, so we went for a wander to walk out. This took us away from the crowds and out into the quiet where we could discuss at lenght important ethical issues, namely bolts and bolted abseil stations on Gogarth.

Our wander brought us finally back to the path and to the New Dungeon Ghyll pub where it would have been rude to not stop for a pint. I can't remember what mine was called but it was a hearty dark ale, with lots of body, strong in taste. Just right to finish the day on. We headed back to the campsite to cook up some food, then headed to the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub for an evening beer and the costumary game of Domino's. Domino's is a serious thing within the Wrekin and something I've been forced to learn. Oddly the Domino's quickly becomes more important than the climbing. I was so tired I kept making little mistakes and not adding up properly. We planned for Raven Crag in Walthwaite on Sunday.

I slept in my tent without putting the inner up, just bunged my thermarest on the ground and snuggled into my 2 sleeping bags (I'm still testing this double bagging sleeping bag idea). With no inner I had more room than usual so I settled in with some hot chocolate and a good book till I fell asleep.

Bacon sandwiches for breakfast, cooked in sesame seed oil (from stir fry the night before) so it had abit of a twist. The weather had come in overnight so I woke up to a warmer but damper morning. It seemed like the bad weather that was suposed to come in for the afternoon was a little premature. Me and Sal risked it anyway and we to Raven Crag above Walthwaite, but were rained off after the first pitch. Instead we walked back to the crag and went to Chesters coffee shop to relax the afternoon way drinking tea, eating soup and scones.

Its a hard life being a mountaineer.

A French Guy in the Lake District...

This is an old weekend to write up, but I couldn't leave it out. When I went over to France to do some climbing in Chamonix we stayed for a few days with Claire's sister just outside Geneva. Her husband (Fabrice) used to climb alot back in the day, although now he spends his time doing via ferrata alot as he's got no-one to climb with.

He took me and Claire sport climbing for the day while we were over in France. It was great fun. I said if he came over to Britain in the summer then I'd take him out trad climbing in the Lakes. Bear in mind that when I explained placing your own protection he muttered "kamakazi British trad climbers!". So heres how it went...

Seeing as we were based south of Coniston in a great little farm house (one of the benefits of crashing with Claire's folks while they were here on holiday) we decided on a roadside crag for out fist day. Me, Claire and Fabrice headed for Raven Crag behind the Old Dungen Ghyll.

The weather looked good, well good for the Lake District. We headed straight from Holly Tree Direct (HVS 4c). Seeing as I was leading I wanted to be on a climb I'd done before and thankfully this time it was dry. The first pitch went well and I brought them both up using my reverso as a guide plate. This is something I've only really done a few times but was quite confident doing. We moved quickly up the next pitch especially as I was block leading so there was no constant change of ropes. I quickly dispatched the crux of the route which I'd had loads of trouble on the first time. At the next belay Fabrice secured himself in a tree leaving Claire to belay me to the finish. I honestly couldn't believe how quickly we'd moved by block leading and using a guide plate allowing them to climb together.

Anyway as I was happy we'd climbed so quick I was swifley brought back down to earth as I missed the descent path. Seeing as someone else had obviously made the same mistake and left a big piece of abseil tat behind (seriously like 8mm rope cut off the end of a 60m rope), I tested it, backed it up, promised Fabrice that I wasn't really a crazy british climber and abseiled off. We all arrived at the floor safely and ran round to our next route (dispite accidentally kicking off an sheep skeleton).

Seeing as Fabrice had asked for "Traditional British Climbing" I'd had decided on Bilberry Buttress (VS 4c) as our second climb. The first pitch takes a blank but easy slab then a beautifel crack (beauty is of course in the eye of the beholder). It takes fist jams and makes me smile. I went up it happily jamming away and then brought Fabrice up. He looked as me like a crazy man when he pulled himself onto the ledge. He thought jamming was a odd concept, and had laybacked as much as he could. Claire having had to suffer my crack addiction before came up the easier groove to the left.

by now the weather had gone from good to worse. I'd been watching the weather building and the clouds coming in but now the rain had just started. Thankfully we were sheilded from the worst of the weather by the rest of Raven crag, but I had decided to get a shufty on. We did the second pitch quickly again, which had a right difficuly section just above the belay. Its also full of stuck wires (I counted 3) but I refused to clip them. The rain had really started as we set out on the final pitch. Its a bit of an esoteric adevnture as there is lots vegetation on route and a little bit of loose rock. But its a mountain route, what do you expect! I belayed in the rain and praying they climb quicker as they came up. This time I hit the descent right on and we got back to the bags, as the weather stopped.

Now Claire wanted to explore some more, and after consulting the guide book she lead off towards Raven Crag East, a single pitch crag with a host of S's, VS's and HVS's. The rock was still a little damp, but our rats clearly still needed feeding so I went up Rowan Tree Groove (HVS 4c). It was a pretty good route by all accounts, and the gear for the crux was a few bomber micro wires (wouldn't want to run it out) but it was only a short move till the next good piece.

Sadly by now the rain had moved back in and we were getting cold. Also a crag with a pub at the base is never a good idea, so we packed up and went for a pint. Fabrice said he had enjoyed Trad climbing and I asked him if he wanted to try something harder and more exposed. He said he would. So on the next day we went to... Dow crag.

I've only completed a route on Dow once, after 3 attempts. The first ended in an abseil off, when we'd pushed on and were hopelessly lost on B buttress in 50mph winds, fog and rain (we were young and inexperienced). The second we also aseiled off in again very high wind, but this time it was probably for the sake of the rest of the party. My third attempt we did Isengard (HVS 5b) and then joined up with Eliminate A (VS 4c) in bright sunshine hauling our rucksack on the hard pitches. All in all this day had been great.

So we rocked up at the Walna Scar Road grabbed the kit and started on the walk in. On the walk in I noted the weather and how it seemed to be building. I figured that we'd be ok anyway and we headed for A buttress. The rock itself was damp and greasy as I found out when I tried to do Eliminate A. VS 4c in slippery greasy wet isn't good and I swiftly backed off on my trusty skyhook. When I'd arrived back at Fabrice and flicked off said trusty skyhook, I took a moment to explain its use. I don't think I made to case for "crazy english climbers" any better to be honest (retreating of little bent bits of metal). As wind had picked up, Arete, chimeny and Crack (HS 4a) had had a more time to dry off so we had a rest, re-racked and I headed off there.

I ended up running the first 2 pitches together as the second only covers easy ground (although somewhat loose). The first pitch runs up a fantastic arete (as suggested by the name!), but the compact rock doesn't allow for much gear. It did save alot of time running both pitches together in the end. The next pitch took the chimney. I'd wanted to avoid this as much as possible, thinking it would be hell in damp conditions. When I got to the crux it just turned out to be climbing over a giant chockstone involving alot of thrutching and salmoning that left us both smeared in green.

The next pitch took "Gordan and Craig's Traverse". I don't know how this traverse has got this name, but I'd love to know the full story behind it. This traverse pitch is a great one and I explained about placing loads of gear to protect my second and that the climbing wasn't actually that hard. I belayed where I'd belayed before, remembering the first time I'd met a friend out on the hill here at this very spot. Finally I nipped up the exit crack/groove, which proved to be harder than I'd anticipated. I'd used up every runner on my rack by the time I topped out. When I'd brought up Fabrice the cloud descended so we moved together until I was sure we where topped out on the summit.

To end the day we took a walk south down the ridge and back to the Walna Scar road, seeing as we'd carried up our bags it made the obvious option. I asked Fabrice what he thought about climbing in British mountains. He said sometimes the climbing isn't hard, but what your doing is. Your in a situation and its an adventure because you have to look after yourself (ok well I wrote it in better english but). He said he'd enjoyed "traditional" climbing in Britian, although I still think he thinks I'm mad.

On our final day we went to Hodge Close Quarry and went sport climbing on some slate. I nearly ended up in the drink climbing out above the pool. Fabrice lead a super strenuous 5+ which knackered us all out. It was a good day.