leashless tools, monopoint poons and a bandolier?

So I'm relatively new to this winter climbing thing. I guess you would call this my first proper season too and what a season it's been so far. I think kick starting my winter career during the best winter for like a million years has really helped. I've learnt so much since my first winter route in wales and I'm still trying and changing what I do until I find a system that works. Obviously a single system isn't going to work for everything, anyway. After alot of reading of Winter Climbing Plus by Rockfax (Ian Parnell and Neil Gresham), Ice & Mixed climbing by the Mountain expert series (written by Will Gadd), pretty much everything Andy Kirkpatrick has ever written and all the other knowledge I could find on the internet (mainly papers on ice screw testing and reboring, thrilling!). My point is is that I've been out with Stewie once or twice and that about as much help from an experienced individual as I've got. It's not like Stewie hasn't passed on knowledge either, but it's hardly a long serving winter apprentship. So before this turns into a rant all my book knowledge, multi-pitch rock climbing, and Stewie's help meant that I want to try out a few things. So these are my thoughts...

Monopoint Crampons:
I'll start from the bottom and move up. Monopoint poons, whats the deal? for those who don't know what they are you have a single vertical frontpoint instead of 2 frontpoints on your crampons. Why would someone do this? Well I started out rock climbing and having a single frontpoint gives much more precision on mixed climbs. as for pure ice they worked really well especially when seconding. I could just carefully hook placements with my tools and poons. For walking on snow they probably made it a little harder as they didn't bite so well in crapy snow, but it was a small price to pay. Just walking in general I didn't really notice any difference. My final verdict? borrow some off a friend and try them out, I did and I think they're awesome.

Bandoliers:
One of Stewies hints and tips to pass on. Basically using a bandolier in winter is where it's at as far at Stewie is concerned. So I endevoured to test one out. Now I've been climbing mainly multipitch routes, with my sack on which sit's high enough over my harness that I can still use my gearloops. Changeovers however involve a passing of gear and with gloves on in bad conditons dropping something is a real possibility. So just rack it all on a bandolier and hand that over instead (and if you do drop it, loose all your rack in one go!). So I tried it this winter borrowing a Metolius Gear sling with loops on it (x4).
Well I thought It was crud. IT hung in my way, I couldn't get to the gear I needed when I wanted it, I felt it on my shoulder and constricted me. I think most of my problems with it came from over loading it, carrying awkward items (mixed hooks) and it having gear loops. I would have much rather just had a sling to use instead.
But there is hope for the humble bandolier yet! I saw the benefits of it as well, especially on chinmeys (which I think I love climbing in winter). I've got an old sling and produced a simple bandolier with no loops on it, and I'll carry my mixed hook else where. I'm not giving up on this one!

Leashless Tools:
And finally we arrived at what the world has been raving on about. Apparently Leashless tools are the new way of climbing and the way forward! I had to try this out, but unfortunatly I'm not exactly rolling in it so out came the titanium tipped drill bit and some quark pinky rest and boom... leashless flys. I followed the idea first done by Martin Brown and adapted my own. I've also got some elastic and camp nano 'biners to make some tether's as you know I'll have dropped them and lost them if I hadn't.
so how did they perform. Well I took them out on our first day with a pair of clipper leashes I'd made but I didn't even bother taking the leashes to the bottom of the route. I figured I'd just grim and bear it. They where excellent. Admittedly I did get a little pumped, but I think this was more from overgripping my axes as I didn't get it once I relaxed my grip. I could shake out if I needed too, place gear quickly, with either hand. As the week went on the ability to just swap my hands occasionally and grip higher up on the shaft made the climbing even easier.
I did find the tether a bit annoying occasionally, especially when seconding, but it was more than worth it for the freedom of leashless.
I would recomment anyone to try leashless, and really give it a try before you discount it. It makes for less hassle climbing as far as I'm concerned meaning I could climb faster, and safer because I could pace gear quicker, so placed more gear.

Aonach Dubh, a lazy day out...

Our final day in Scotland and as we'd gone big the day before we were knackered. I still wanted to do something with it. After much discussion the night before we finalised plans to head to Aonach Dubh as it was pretty roadside, and near to the Clagaigh Pub for a drink afterwards. Ian had gone home so it was me, Stewie and Andy climbing together as Toaf and Rob went off to practise some navigation.

Aonach Dubh is a pretty easy crag to get to, but it had the hardest walk in of the week. This was set against the fact that I'd had a late start (slept in till 7) and had a cooked breakfast before we headed off! Our route choices for the day where "the Scream" (grade IV) and No.6 Gully (also grade IV). Technically the Scream was probably harder as it was a 75metre long icefall, but when we got there it didn't seem in condition at all so we headed for No.6 Gully. Stewie had put me in charge of party management (assuming his role of a responsibility dodging adult).

The walk in like I said was steep but a small price to pay. We where at the base of the route within the hour, talking to the two man team who had arrived before us. We where missing out the first pitch as it wasn't really in condition, but they'd started up it. We agree as we where a three and they were clearly going to climb miles faster than us that we'd let them lead off ahead of us, so as they scrabbled up an out of condition pitch, we walked round. We geared up as they took the first pitch allowing us time for some tea and food before we set off. Stewie would lead the first pitch, Andy the second and me the third (I'd nabbed the best ice pitch).

We decided to abseil the small slope to get to the base of the route. I say we, but what I mean was Stewie and Andy abseil off me (tied into my harness and braced against a rock) while I took photos and downclimbed/walked round. Stewie made short work of the first pitch, which involved some hollow sounding ice and a couple of big blocks coming down. We'd all stayed out the line of fire, so it was all good. He brought me and Andy up together while I took out the screws Andy concentrated on the climbing. Andy took the next pitch, a snow slope and mixed groove. He yelled he would try the left hand side, but we told him to take the right as that was the line of the route.

Andy faired fine on the right a grunted his way removing all the crud ice in the process. He stopped below a short steep icefall and belayed there. Once he's brought up me and Stewie I decided Stewie should take this short pitch and then I'll have the pitch afterwards. From this point it should have been only 3 pitches to the top now. Off Stewie went, worryingly close to Andy as he set off. I started wondered what would happen if he should fall off, then the ice started to dinner plate! I took up a posistion above Andy, trying to block as much ice as I could from falling on him seeing as he was doing something important... belaying. Stewie topped out eventually and we started on up, this time Andy climbing first leaving me to remove all the gear (again!).

Finally it was my pitch, a 30 metre high ice pitch (and then some snow, but I didn't know that then). So gear swapped, roped sorted and off I went. My last pitch of ice for the week and I enjoyed it. I took adventage of th screw holes left by other parties in the good ice and happily climbed on. I tried to minimise the amount of debris that got knocked off as Stewie and Andy where actually in the firing line this time. As I topped out of the ice, I hit a small patch of loose rock, all about half the size of a brick. Not something every nice to top out on, especially as it was all loose, but I yelled a warning and plodded off up the snow to belay in a groove.

Andy took the last pitch, again with a bit of yelling for direction. This was another mixed section with a bit of squirming around a large block. Stewie left me to deal with the gear. It had juts become my job for the day I guess. From there we (me and Stewie) walked off roped to Andy just in case we still need the ropes. We soon found out we didn't so we deroped, racked off and packed up ready for the short steep walk down.

For our last days climbing it was perfect, It was a short, easy (ish) and ended up in a good pub that sold 12 different ales. I mean, what more could you ask for?

Going all out...

Like I said, we'd have to go all out. This was the best weather we'd seen all winter, and we only had 2 days left in scotland. It was time to go big or go home, so we went big, we went for our first day on the Ben.

I can't really tell you how daunting this felt when we'd finally planned to go, I mean it was the Ben. It's big, its got a long walk in and just as far walk out, long routes and hard to nav off in a white out. Anything could happen. Uncle Rob had told us that we should just accpet that it'll be at least a 12 hour day, and just pack accordingly. I still only packed a litre of water.

So we found ourselves in the North Face car park, nice and early at about 0530. I was bloody freezing and if I'm honest I was worrying that I would have enough layers with me. I only had my belay jacket and hardshell in my sack. A guy in the car park who pretty much just arrived advised us that the walk in was "brutal" and it was. It's steep and seems to go on forever through the forest, but it is a bit of blessing when you finally come out onto flatter ground. Our first view of the North Face was in the erie early morning light. I traced a line in to the to little light that was the CIC hut. It didn't look that far away and the gradient didn't seem too bad at all. Glad we gained the height in the first place!

The walk in took us over 3 hours I guess, I wasn't really paying attention to the time. We had alpine clear skies again and the ice falls next to the CIC where in good nick. Before I even had to suggest starting off on one of them, Andy asked if our route took us up one to start out day. We agreed to head over and take a look at them.

After gearing up we went to look at the first one. It didn't look too bad an angle, however on closer inspection it was dripping, holed out and steep as hell. After my first whack into it, it made a sickening hollow sound so we ran off to the groove we picked as a back up. Here the ice was much better. I started up on an easy angled section, putting in a screw or two and clipping a thread left by someone else. I then had a choice of easy angled windy ice, or straight up the steepest section. What do you think I went for! It was the start of the day, so I placed another screw and off I went...

...my calves screamed at me to climb faster of cut a ledge to rest on. I somehow ignored them, monkey hanging to place another screw. Why had I stopped in the steepest bit? well because I'd run it out too far and not read the ice properly and placed a screw before it. I clipped my screw and carried on up to easier ground. I went another screw and then some ice covered frozen turf to finish off. I clipped an awesome thread and gave the three tugs. Andy came up and pointed out that I just done a pretty much 60 metre pitch. I hadn't even realised? We had a small cup of tea and set off looking for Central Gully (grade III) situated somewhere at the back of Coire na Ciste (I spelt it right first time!). Commence snow plodding.

We had not planned to go Central Gully, in fact I hadn't picked anything to do. Andy had stepped in and said the night before lets do Glover's Chimney (also grade III). Rob and Stewie and gone about it being a classic route that they'd never got round to doing, so we thought we'd attempt it. We headed for Central Gully because I basically had not got my head around where we were, and though Glover's was in a different place. So as we plodded in na Ciste I was this awesome looking was across from me, which turned out to be Raeburn's wall on the flank of Tower ridge. I took another 10 minutes for it to dawn on me that we could do Glover's Chimney, which he agreed to, dispite me pointing out that there would be a chimeny pitch on it, which he hates!

We broke trail, well Andy took toe last 60 metres, but then again he did bring a flask of tea which as good as my water bottle was starting to freeze. Breaking trail meant that no-one had been on the route since the last snowfall. Anyway I was nice to be on the other side of na Ciste. Every other party we'd seen had gone to do Ledge route it seemed! Andy took a stance below the first ice pitch and I set off up it he told me to take the easiest line up it. I guess it dawn on me then that this was serious. I focused to find a easy line and a decent belay and set off. This pitch was awesome, like pure grade III ice with a nice top out. The ice was good and didn't seem to dinner plate much.

I found a great spot to get some gear in for a belay and brought up Andy. We'd agreed I tackle the final chinmey so he'd take the next few pitches. I suggested we move together to safe him bringing my up snow slopes. After he got the concept and off he went I had time to contemplate how lucky we where to be there. As I gazed out over Coire na Ciste and the rest of scotland I saw that the wetaher had begun to move in. It looked just like cloud, no snow thankfully. Andy pulling me tight stopped my day dreaming and off I set.

He's run it out well far and I was impressed by how quick he'd moved and covered 100 metres or so I recconned. As a torrent of ice, munge, mud and snow poured down next to me I yelled up to see what was happening. He yelled there was ice and for me to deal with it so he was building a belay but all he could find was a crappy mixed hook placement. Sometimes it seems it would be easier if someone had climbed the route first and cleaned it for us! I climed up to him and we excataved a bomber torque nut placement allowing me to set off again. By now the cloud had really moved in and to add to the fun, a guy doing Tower Gap (where Glover's Chimney runs up) was cleaning all the snow off it onto me. My yelling did nothing to stop him, he probably couldn't here me but I tried to belay to one side and save the same treatment when I cleaned/climbed the Chimney.

And off I went for our final pitch of Glover's. This is also probably my first proper mixed route too. I got started in the chimney and knew that bracing myself off one wall with my pack would probably be the key, least I'd get a rest. Some hooking and cleaning off all the snow lead me to a decent spike to sling. with this on I moved up on good hooks and occasional ice. As I got above my sling I looked for another piece of gear. I now have a very bashed superlight rock on my rock as I tried to get it to seat. Not that it matters, it fell of as I moved past it. Bridging now I got a torque nut in and just went all out for the top! With a crack running along each side of the chimney and good ice in each I got an axe in each side. With some screaming to myself of "come on you bastard!" I moved up and foor my feet in, even a boot jam at one point. I was in for a shock when I pulled over the top and found myself staring down the opposite side of tower ridge. It's only a about 40 centimetres wide!

I made myself safe, breathed a sigh or relief and yell to Andy. I then enjoyed a nice chat with a guy doing Tower Gap itself and his partner while I belayed up Andy. Andy joined me on out tiny space and after a "your alive" handshake he set off up Tower Gap to run it out as far as possible. Exiting Tower Gap proved to be a lateral thinking puzzel, involving hooking, hand jamming and alot os crampon scraping on rock. Andy dissappeared off into the mist as I struggled to keep up with the ropes. They came tight and I set off. I found him belayed to an axe in the snow and I took the gear and dissappeared. I clipped a well and truely stuck nut before the final slope (I didn't know it at the time) and brought Andy up to me. We'd reasoned that the ground was pretty easy but we didn't know I we were off Tower Ridge or not so we stayed roped together (with coils, another lesson for Andy) until we found the summit appearing though the mist.

So after seeing know one all day, about 7 of us arrived at the summit at once. It was nice seeing so many people up there enjoying being out in the hills but eventually it was time to move off. We'd planned to head towards the Carn Mor Dearg arete and down down into Coire Leis via the line of the abseil posts. In the current conditions Andy plumbed for the longer and more sensible line down (following the switchbacks). I relented to this good decision and we packed the kit up and headed off.

The walk back was pretty long, but relativly easy. There was a flippin yak trail trampled into the snow, but I kept making sure it was alright. Either way we soon dropped out of the cloud and bumslid most of the way down the swithcbacks (or where they should have been if there wasn't so much snow). It was now getting dark and I was getting a headache, probably a little dehydrated, but soon we hit the forest path. Back down the "brutal" forest track, which proved just as annoying as it had in the morning as it had a sheet of hard slippy snow/ice over it.

So car to car in 13 hrs 40 mins, over 10km walked with full kit and about 400 metres of up to grade IV,4 climbing. It was an awesome day out which I'll remember forever.

Creag Meagaidh

An attempt at going to Creag Meagaidh. This attempt went well, in the broadest of terms ie we didn't die. However in the term of how much climbing we got done, I think it was a disaster.

We got up nice and early (0500 ish) had breakfast and packed up to head out. It was a nice drive, but the road was covered in snow and the car was sliding a little. I took it carefully. It was nice to drive as the sun was coming up epecially with everywhere covered in snow. We found the car park eventually but after looking at our map we didn't know if this was the car park or if it was up the track at the back. So ever the lazy mountaineers we set off up the track. This proved to be my downfall as my car (Jess) couldn't make it up and during reversing back down the car slid off the track and rested on a bump, I was stuck.

We couldn't believe it. My poor Jess was stuck! After calling up Rob to let him know whats gone on, and my Roadside rescue cover only to be informed that as my car was still running, they wouldn't do anything about it. I dispaired and me and Andy walked up the track to the local house. The place was pretty spooky, with a stand alone walkin fridge and a pile of fresh stag's head along one side. We borrowed a spade and some planks and set about creating some earth works to get me out. I'd already called up Stewie and he was coming to help us. Eventually me and Andy gave up and just sat in the car waiting for Stewie, we both fell asleep.

We were woken by the guys who lived at the house returning home. They were in thier landrover and very kindly offered to drag us out. Thank god! They tried with the Landy and could do it (dispair again!) but then the older guy just non-chanontley said "we'll just drag it out with the argo". He the the boy and soon enough a young lad came down and they winched me out with a supercat. It took an 8 wheel drive all terrain vehical to pull me out. I'm so lucky.

Seening as we'd drank all our tea, we headed off back to base, with no climbing done. Tomorrow we'd have to go all out.

Aonach Mor...

Well If you can do it in the Alps why can't you do it in Britian. I'm talking about taking a cable car and chairtlift most of the way up. I can see why Aonach Mor wasn't really developed until the cable car access was established, it would have been a long walk for some ~120 m routes. Now of course its gets the nickname "Stanage on Ice" due to it's easy access and shorter routes. I'm not trying to take away from this place because it's still a winter crag quite high up, you've still got bad weather, cornices, avalanche slopes and all the other fun to deal with.

Taking a chairlift was an experience enough. Me and Andy had never been on one before, so after some brief instructions from Toaf on how to get on and off, on we jumped and we're carried upwards. Getting off appears to be a co-ordinated run so you don't crash into an ice axe sticking off a pack or fall over and get whacked by the chairlift! We managed it fine and than started on the steep walk up to the top of Aonach Mor. I ran off eager as ever trying to keep pace with Uncle Rob. He's a bit of a speed daemon as it is, but he was only going walking so had a superlight pack. As we gained hit good scottish winter conditons starting with about 10/20 metre visibility. There's a little shed up there that the Ski centre use for casulties and stuff which is where we geared up. We could even leave our bags up there and come back to them between each climbing. This all seemed a little too easy, cable cars up, short routes, no packs there must be a catch. We there was one catch, you had to be at ready for the last cable car at 1700. There was also another catch that we would find out later.

So off we trotted to find "Easy Gully" to abseil in on. This was my first time rapping in on a snow bollard. It wasn't actually that scary, but going over a cornice was!. I skipped my feet off and fell into the wall covering myself in snow and ice, not a good start! Me and Stewie promptly walked off to find the base of our routes. Stewie was heading for Tyhoon grade IV,5 and climbing with Ian. Me, Toaf and Andy were climbing together and we where heading for White Shark (IV,4) or Tunnel Vision (III). We found what looked like White Shark and set about climbing it. Andy whacked my on belay and I set off up my first pitch of the week.

I'll point out now that I'm sporting new mono-point crampons (G14's) and a pair of Leashless DMM Fly's connected to me with some scratch built landyards made of elastic and camp nano 'biner's (wow how many products did I advertise there!). I've tried the monopoints before and lover them. So far thier ability to deal with mixed climbing whilst still being excellent on ice and impressed. I've been determined to give leashless ago since I've read about it, but instead of forking out for a new set of tools I've just add pinky rests to my flys. I just had to find out how they'd perform now.

Off I set up a about a grade 4 pitch of ice. It was pretty nice climbing with a steep step then a bit of crappy snow then a final little pitch before the belay (I didn't know that at the time). I'd heard no call of half way and had no idea how much rope I'd run out. I was in my own little world of ice climbing happiness...

...this little world of ice climbing happiness was tugged back into reality in the middle of the steepest section of ice I've been on, as I'd run out of rope. A lot of yelling later and toad unclipping from the belay and him and Andy climb up the snow slope to give me more slack I topped out on the belay ledge and set about testing the pegs and tat there. I brought Andy and Toaf up together.

Toaf was seconding me first and when he came to the steep ice section he baulked at it. I felt immmediatly bad because I knew I'd be fine on this, but I also knew that Toaf would have been a little nervous. I didn't didn't know that this pitch would have been so steep, but if I had I'd have never started up it with Toaf. I thought about backing off from the tat. Toaf climbed up the steep ice well. I mean his technique was spot on, his foot placements good and his axe placements sound and deep without removing all the ice. I've never seen someone so scared in my life though. He relaxed when he clipped into the belay and Andy started up. I mean this was suposed to be an easy first day!!!

We survey the next pitch. It was just as steep and looked like a hard top out onto the snow above so I took it. I actually slipped off as I downclimbed from the belay (blown the onsight!) and we laughed about pulling the ropes and starting again ground up. Ethical debates seem to matter less in a whiteout. I still coulding see the top, but I sent the steep section well and podded up the snow. Now this really is my first real winter season so I hadn't dealt with a cornice yet. We'd discussed cornice tactics the night before and I'd come to the conclusion that I should avoid at all costs. Well I followed this snow slope up and a vauge line of footprints to the base of a massive 15ft cornice! What the bloody hell was I suposed to do? It seemed to be composed of sugary crude snow too. Tunnelling through seemed my only option until I unearthed a belay, of sorts.

Well clearly someone had done the same thing as me, but they'd screwed, based or somehow places an icescrew in a munge filled crack and equalised it against a snowshovel buried to the hilt. This was suposed to be an easy day! I stoop around undecided about what to do for a while, I couldn't traverse under it as I was hemmed in by to steep rock walls and I couldn't dig through it. In the end I rappelled back down watching the shovel and screw bend in thier placements. I think I must have arrived back at the belay white as a sheet (are as white as snow!). We rigged another abseil back down to the floor and set finding a route to get out on.

Remember when I said we had to get back by 5 for the last cable car, well it seemed the pressure was on. I ran up Tunnel Vision (grade III) and belayed below the best pitch on the route (I'd already fed my rat). Andy took this and climbing in interesting style, seeming to make progression upwards by having a go at me. I took none of this to heart and just put it down to leading stress. Andy dissappeared for ages. Time was really starting to tick on aswell. Toaf reconned, based on last years descent, that it would take about 1hr 30mins to descend to the cable car. Time was ticking away...

...Andy couldn't make the top. The ropes were not long enough (damn my 50 metre ropes!). He belayed me up first and I set about delaing with the cornice while he brought up Toaf. Thankfully this was ok and I brought up Andy and then Toaf. A hurried bout of packing then we were off, running! Andy had set off first as he's not as fast on his feet. We had 1 hour to get down, in ankle deep snow.

It seems that you can cover snowy ground pretty quickly when your up against a 3 hour walk back if your late. We made it with time to spare infact, but running had killed my knees and shoulders. It didn't matter as we'd had an awesome first day. We chilled out in the Sauna and swimming pool on the way home before a massive meal and preparation for the next day...

Aonach Mor again..

Well we had an impromptue day off. Stewie and Ian got up early for a day on the Ben but turned back due to bad weather. We had decided on another day to Aonach Moor, but again it was raining which dampened everyones enthusiasm (apart from mine, I was grumpy so I filed stuff). We filled our day with Lazing around, a trip to Fort William and some more spa treatment. Both of us planned to try again the next day.

Stewie and Ian did get up early again and head off before we'd even got up. Me, Toaf and Andy where planning to catch the 8 o'clock climbers cable car up. We almost didn't make it and had to run across the car park. I think we were the last ones they let up. As we walked off towards the charlift this time, all the other teams seemed to head for the west face od Aonoch Moor. This had the most favourable avalanche forcast (ie low). We'd planned to head up to Aonoch Moor north face again and do Typhoon and maybe Left twin. The cable car wasn't actaully open when we got to it but Andy had a polite word with the guy running it and he started it up and cleared the ice off the machinery. When he checked our tickets it turned out that we'd only brought cable car and not chairlift tickets. Bummer! He offered us a £1.50 each for the chairlift and we gladly accepted.

Our getting on and off the cable car went fine as we'd practised the day before, however Andy dropped his gloves off just as we left...and I got the blame!

The weather was awesome on the walk up to the gearing up point. We had excellent views of the Ben and almost alpine clear skies (there was some cloud on the move in). The walk really didn't tate that long, but it seemed so much long than the day before when we didn't have a whiteout to deal with. We took our time gearing up being the first to arrive and headed off to easy gully. Now we'd abseiled off a snow bollard last time, which wasn't there. I asked them both if they'd ever dug one before and no-one had. I opted to rappell in first because one I'm the heaviest, but two because I was making the snow bollard so if It didn't work then it would be my own fault. I played it conservative making it 4 metres wide and about just over a foot deep. Then clipped in and abseiled off.

The cornice broke as I stepped on it. Thankfully it wasn't to big and I only fell a little, but I wish I'd done up my jacket and put my hood up. I got fiulled up with spindrift and yelled a warning of my mistake up to Toaf and Andy. They heeded this warning as they came down. We podded off in deeper snow that the day before. We found the base of Typhoon (grade IV,5) easy enough. The amount of snow that was at the base (waist deep) prompted me to write off Left Twin as I figured it would be under snow. I'm not psyched by podding up snow. I took the first pitch. Today we had 60m ropes and better weather for the moment. I ran up pretty easy snow and ice placing a few pieces of gear but mainly running it out in a effort to save time, then I was confronted with the crux.

The crux was a chinmey/squeeze/groove. It was wide enough to get my axes in and my arms, but my body was forced out. Had it been solid ice all the way up the back it would have been easier, but there was alot of exposed rock and thin icey cracks. In went a torque nut at the base and up I climbed. I could see a great place to belay just above me, when I would have topped out the groove. tenuous placements above gear lead up the a slight rest where I bashed in my mixed hook and clipped a screamer to hit. I remember thinking "well you better not fall off, don't want to use up a screamer". By now I had my axes in good ice covered turf above me, but my feet didn't seem to want to go anywhere? I tried lots f placements, usually ending in a scraping of metal on rock until I got a monopoint on a tiny crack on the right wall, opposed against my back on left wall. This was enough and I hauled up on my axes shifting my hands up the shafts to get higher. I managed to get a frontpoint into the frozen turf and I knew I'd done it.

"On belay", then and Toaf was climbing. Toaf climbed well up the easy snow and ice to below the chimney/groove crux. Here he just stopped. I could see it in his face that he's already resided to the fact that he wasn't going to climb it. I gave him as much encouragment as I could, but Toaf hates mixed climbing. I found out later that he preferes climbing snow. He yelled for a lower off and said he'd walk round. He wanted us to carry on with the climb and he said he's meet us at the top. I think I told he I expect a cup of tea ready for when we topped out. Andy then came up. He had a little difficulty with the groove and topping out of it (something along the line of me grabbing his harness to give him a hand. I remember his yelled "stick god dammit it stick" as his knee refused to get purchase on the ice. We figured after that there might be a market for knee crampons.

We swapped the gear and Andy took the next pitch. It was now we realised that Toad had walked round with a couple of runners and bit of gear. By now our alpine clear skies had gone and the weather had moved in, Yay for whiteout conditions! Andy started up the pitch but his front points didn't want to bit into the ice. It was covered in a rime of cruddy neve and his boots just kept scrabbling off. He got about 20ft up before his first piece of gear and he lower off it leaving me to take the pitch. I watched Andy snuggle back into his pre-warmed (by me) belay jacket.

The snow was actually quite hard to get purchase on, but I found some good ice further up and got stuck into that. The next section was alright, steep but the foot placements were good so I could keep the weight off my arms. I got another good nut in half way up int he rock wall and carried up. The route spilt here and as I didn't have the description or the guidebook (another thing Toaf had with him) I just chose the easiest looking line. It took a hanging groove with ice in a single crack on the left hand side. Here the ability to swap my hands on my axes really paid off. I scraped up this and floundered into the snow above. Here I podded on upward running it out and hoping to reach the top. Obviously I didn't! And annoyingly I could see the top (only metres away when this happened). I had to backtrack and excavate a something in the nearest rock to belay off. I got a goodish peg, and hammered in axe and a good rock to brace off. I think there is alot to be said for a good braced stance.

I couldn't hear Andy at this point, so I had to rely on the fact we'd climb together for the last 6 months and that the good old 3 tugs system would work. I gave it three, got three in return and then started taking in for what seemed like forever. It always does thought when you can't see the progession your second is making. Eventually I could hear grunting and panting and Andy popped up covered in snow. "good lead" was all he said as he took off up the final snow slope to deal with the diddy little cornice. The ropes went tight and I took out my peg and axe and plodded off aftr him.

I was greeted not with tea as I'd hoped but a smiling Toaf exclaiming "where the bloody hell have you been?!". Least he'd made it round back to the bag and recouted his mini-epic of dealing with little cornices and front pointing across exposed neve. We enjoyed some tea at the gear up hut as the weather had cleared up. There was no rush to get back to the cable car so we took a lesuirely walk down, picking up Andy's dropped gloves on the way.

Another good day.










(Yes, that is toaf asleep in the cable car curled around his pack)

Scotland trip...

Well as for my last post about being totally un-psyched about going, well that soon died a death. I guess it was the end of the half term and I was tired and stressed out by kids. The trip however turned out to be a whiskey drinking, snow-podding, ice climbing, mixed torquing, protection excavating, white-out navigating, snow bumsliding, tea drinking, piton bashing, car crashing bonanza! We got 4 days climbing in, learnt so much more (so expect another "what I learnt from scotland" post. I'm paying for it now as I'm wreaked from the week. It was worth it.

Should probably start at the beginning, and like most good stories it starts in the Pub. It was Jono's Birthday so we all had a few drinks at the Graduate in Stoke, leaving me, Andy and Toaf a little worse for wear for our drive up on the Saturday. After a little comminication screwup we met Stewie, Uncle Rob and Ian at Tebay services. Then off we went, Hamilton, Loch Lomond, coming across Rannoch Moor, past Buchialle Etive Mor, then down into Onich to find our digs for the week.

I really need to say something about the place we stayed in. Simply it was awesome. For £100 accomodation for 7 days I was expecting something alot worse. 3 bedrooms (I got to share the double bed with the Toaf), massive living room, excellent kitchen and ability to make a makeshift drying room, by filling the porch with heaters and keeping it closed meant we had an awesome place to stay. On top of all of this you have access to the SPA in Fort Bill, a luxury I was not used to.

For a first day it wasn't bad. We planned to go to Aonoach Moor on Day 2, so we could find our feet and chill out on some shorter routes. Plus you take a Telecabine and charilift most of the way up!

Bring on Aonoch Moor...

Scotland trip...

Well it's the last day of the half term and I've got a 7 day trip to scotland coming up. Packing is slowly becoming a nightmare, but I've got most of it done. I only need to pack up my clothing ie decided what to take! The thing is I'm not psyched up at all about going. I've not idea why this is...

Weeping fingers... must be too much bouldering?

After taking a defiant stance that bouldering is crap without actually ever going out doing some, I had to bite the bullet (or swallow my pride) and admit that I enjoy it tremendously. The day's haven't arrived where I'll have left my rack behind for a weekend in place of a couple of pads, but I'll definatly be making space for a pad in the car in future, especially with long summer evenings ahead.

So what happened to come to this then? well after crashing out completly on sunday last weekend I needed a week of exercise to make myself feel better. Football on a Monday then redpoint straight after work on the Tuesday. Now redpoint was packed, not that I'm going to complain, but it was pack with people climbing routes, and not bouldering. I wasn't feeling too socially minded so I hunkered down in the bouldering sections to tackle a few problems I'd been working on from the week before. This left me feeling tired after a good 2 hour session but with no skill left on my fingers tips. Wednesday equalled running, Thursday SUMC (more climbing for my poor fingers) and then Friday, a night off climbing at least).

Toaf was actually coming away this weekend. Considering 2 years ago we'd be away without fail each weekend and clocked up hundreds of routes together I haven't actually climbed properly with him in about 4 months. I think life has just been getting in the way of his climbing right now, but I was glad he was coming away. It was just like old times picking him up again:

me [after calling his mobile outside his house] "Dude, let me in?"
Toaf "what? why? I thought we where meeting at 6?"
me [quick check of the watch] "it is 6!"
Toaf "...groan..."

'Bout 5 minutes later he stumbled down stairs, proudly diplaying his already packed kit.
"Dude, where's the pad?"
"errr...it's in the loft".

So much for a quiet getaway! We met Laura in Llangollen as he Dad was giving her a lift across from Stoke and all piled into the car aiming for North Wales. I'm not sure where we were heading, but I plummed for Tremadog, as there should have been good weather. We'd stopped off at Joe Brown's in Capel for a few supplies (ie, a survival bag for me). Toaf wanted some ice axes and wanted to check at Joe Brown's in Llanberis. As luck would have it this was an awesome decision (which I attribute to Toaf) as we dropped over Pen-y-Pass the weather was gorgeous. I figured why go anywhere else, we may as well climb in Llanberis pass if the weather is this good.

Wales seemed so quiet. I've been there over winter and it's been packed as obviously it's been the best winter in years. But this weekend, without significant winter conditions (expect for the hardened few) it seemed really quiet. It was 11 o'clock by the time we parked in Llanberis pass and there was still spaces. We headed up the scree's to Dinas Cromlech. Laura opened a can of worms when she asked what "scree" was exactly, so cue my geography degree knowledge to come out! Toaf complained all the way up. He vowed never to return to Cromlech after we did Cenotaph corner two years ago. I think his scars have healed.

We looked for an ameanably graded route. Laura's seconded 5b (and i found out climbs well at 5a) but on a mountain route carrying approach shoes. We aimed for Dives/Better things at HS4b. I took both pitches because Toaf wasn't feeling into leading straight away. The first pitch took a groove with loads of spikes (winter has opened up my eyes to the opptunities of spikes for protection) then a short traverse across what I thought was damp but bacl rock. As I got to it it turned out to be black with slime and wet, flowing a little in some places. I whacked in loads of gear for the little traverse trying to leave as much protection for Toaf and Laura. I pretty much emptied my rack into 1 pitch of HS 4a! "The Forest" as the ledge is called in the topo was a great ledge system with loads of belay points. You could have had a party up there! I brought up Toaf and Laura together, attempting to save time using my reverso in guideplate made. I think it's negligable if I saved anytime at all, but it wasn't like we where in a rush anyway.

Toaf's expression after the first pitch was great. I wish I'd had the sense to catch it on camera! he said "it felt like I was learning to climb all over again!". Laura took a completly different line to the one me and Toaf took crossing the traverse. I think this reflects the difference in height between us (about 10 inches at least) and it was something I noticed across the rest of the weekend. The next pitch took a scrambly start into a groove. then the groove soared upwards leaving my wondering if Laura would manage it. I had a right struggle up it, probably because I saw a crack at the back of it and focused on that. I should habve gone with bridging and the massive face holds on the right wall. Again slinging spikes seemed the order of the day. I topped out after this glorious pitch and belayed as close to the edge as possible. I brought Laura up first, probably leaving Toaf to sleep on the belay ledge. After my worrying she climbed it fine, but like before quite differently to me (probably because of her height).

After some yelling and then rapid taking in, Toaf topped out too. He said he felt much better about climbing now as he was beginnning to trust his hands and feet much more on the holds. He looked better and was actually smiling. I'm going to hate to admmit it, but I've actually missed sitting on the top of a climb while he rolls and smokes a fag. I guess it's because it forces me to relax and sit for a minute, or maybe its just because it's what we've always done, I don't know.

A brief discussion about how to get down entailed, eventually with us agreeing to walk round. I was so glad I'd climbed up with my approach shoes. At the base of the crag I think motivation died. By motivation I mean I fell as sleep because we couldn't decided on anything and Toaf and Laura de-harnessed. I think we where actually just happy to nip up for one climb and then take it easy. So back down the screes we went and aimed for the Cromlech Boulders for a spot of bouldering?

Yep we got out the pad, ditched the rack'n'ropes and headed towards Brown's Crack a classic V1. I've not idea about bouldering grades (though I've been reading up since) but it seemed ameanable. I've tried it over and over before and never actually completed it, so this time I was going for it. The Rhyolite on the Cromlech Boulders is pretty aggressive, which isn't a bad thing at all, just makes for skin loss as I was to find out. Both me and Toaf sent this and then started looking in the guidebook for what to aim for next. I picked a V4 that ran from the start of Brown's Crack out onto the hanging arete.

This turned out the be just what I was looking for. I couldn't actually do the problem, but it took me and Toaf ages to work out how to do each little move till we had the right body posistions, hooking our heels in the correct places and resting for a couple of seconds when appropriate. I've never really been on a boulder problem where everyones advice and idea's came together to produce something that almost worked. It didn't matter that I didn't do the problem, because it'll be there for next time, which is something I'm looking forward too. Needless to say it did shred the skin from my fingers...

Pub! well it was the obvious choice for the next port of call wasn't it? I mean we'd climbed, bouldered and now clearly deserved a pint of XB and a couple of rounds of pool. Where we were sleeping that night was still to be decided. We'd toyed with the idea of biving under the Cromlech Boulders themselves, but we could also stay in the pub and camp. Finally we had an offer of a bed at the Tyn Lon with the Ceunant MC. Laura finally settled our decision for us. She was the main force behind biving, and I'd spotted a likely looking spot earlier so back up the pass we headed!

Turned out our spot with hold 3 people quite well, and probably 4 people at a push! Me and Laura didn't bother with Bivi bags, but had them on hand. Toaf, afriad of the cold as always, tucked into his 4 season sleeping bag and bivi bag. surprisingly enough it wasn't cold. I thought we'd get a little chilly but it turned out to be another triumph for my dual sleeping bag system. Laura was of course warm. She looked like a head poking out of a mass of sleeping bags. She'd brought 2 winter weight synthetic bags! The night passed quietly enough, there was no moon but the stars were so bright it didn't matter. We woke up to the sun rising and light streaming down Llanberis pass, pouring light into our little bivi. The ground was frozen underfoot, so I guess it was a little cold over night. Old Rosie came and asked for her customary £1 as we where cooking up sausages for breakfast. All in all it was an amazing night out.

So where did we head on the sunday! well seeing as we had not been the Tree-mud-rock the day before I felt a trip was in order. It's quite close to where Tom lives so he could meet us there and it has a range of grade so everybody would be able to find something to lead. The weather was glorious and as we walked towards Merlin (one of the best HVS climbs I've ever done) I ranted and raved about Grim wall (one of the best VS's). As we passed it and it seemed free we scrambled up to it. Laura and Toaf teamed up to do Grim Wall with Laura taking the first pitch, whilst me and Tom set about tackling Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b). I've often looked at Grim Wall direct as it takes such a nice looking slab, but I never thought I'd be leading it. As me and Tom thought back the last route we'd done together was infact Grim Wall, in which I'd made a route finding error and had to back off part of Grim Wall Direct. Still, I was climbing hard so we wend for it anyway.

The first pitch was a little runout. I could have placed a few more microwires or something, but the climbing wasn't that hard on the runout section and the pro was there where you need it. I bunged Tom on belay and brought him up. We got talking to the guy on the ledge (its a pretty big ledge) as there was a little conjestion as routes crossed over and we agreed to wait. Laura joined us as well and brought up Toaf. The guys before us had finished so I started up the final 5b pitch. It was much more interesting than the last pitch, sort of a continual layback on smears. There was one quite balancy 5b move above some gear, but it was alright. Me and Tom sat on the top waiting for Laura and Toaf. Me and Tom had climbed on the doubled rope so had to wait so we could all abseil down in the end. We chatted with some guy's who just done Meshach, and they said it was well worth doing.

After a little absiel discussion with Laura and Tom about backing up, checking, testing and actually abseiling we all got down to the floor. Tom and Toaf headed off to the car for biscuits and more tea, leaving me and Laura to head up Meschach (HVS 5a). This was easier than the last route and the first first pitch went easily. The second pitch however climbs through some serious looking terrain, but at a relativley ameanable grade. I started up making some harder moves to eventually clip and old peg in the middle of the wall. Here I was stumped as I climbed a little in the wrong direction. eventually I found the correct way and danced over on smears and jugs to a crimpy finish. What a route. Definalty made it into the favourites bag! Laura climbed it well, but as I watched her she took a different line to me. I couldn't say whether it was easier or not, but she seems fine and happy on it.

We abseiled from a different point (above Shadrach) this time and caught up with Toaf and Tom on "the brother's variation" to Shadrach. I left the ropes in place for them to abseil down. cost us alot of time actually be they sat smoking and sending everyone else down the ropes while me and Laura waited for them to come down We had planned to do another route!. As it happened Laura got to start off in the setting sun, so the crag was bathed in an orange glow. She did the brothers start variation (at 4b) after I'd tried to squirm up the chimney and got stuck, then made a hasty retreat! She tucked herself into the belay and brought me up. The variation takes an offwidth crack with eats hands, arms, knees, feet and legs. It was a excellent lead from Laura and great use of the availble gear. I took the final headwall crack which went at 4c. This I went up on great gear and topped out in gradually approaching darkness. By the time Laura was up, and we where set up to abseil off, it was dark.

I love climbing at Tremadog as its convienent, safe and fun enjoyable climbing. We had another great day out up there and I cant wait to get back there over the summer to get on Vector and try Cream! bring on the dolorite!