I'd like to say we had a big night in the pub, but in reality that didn't happen at all. We had a big meal! and for me a single beer but we all pretty much fell asleep at the table. We stayed up at North Lees campsite. I've not stayed there in about 6 years (amazingly) so it's changed a bit since my last visit (nicer toilets, better washing up facilities and a place to log in a pay). We depitched after a few cups of tea and headed back to Outside as the general vote was for a cafe breakfast. Over breakfast we threw around idea's about where to go climbing for the day. Many ideas were thrown around but in the end we settled on Gardom's Edge, based for me at least on the chance to do Moyer's Buttress.
Gardom's Edge! a new crag. I'd spotted it in the guidebook the weekend before as I wandered into Birchen and it looked pretty cool. Infact we picked it because there was a lot of routes are a variety of grades and it was sheltered from the bitter wind blowing around (it's got trees). After a winding journey with a crap map we parked up and walked in. The amount of junk I'll carry to the crag is ridiculus when it's somewhere like the peak. I had my normal gear, and Matt Snells harness, shoes helmet and misc gear and if that wasn't enough my bouldering mat. I'd never dream of all this is the mountains but yeah well, you know, it's like the peak district.
We headed straight for Moyer's Buttress (E1 5b) which was a route of "historical significance" as discribed in the guidebook. In reality it had a nice name, a nice story and was the crag classic so Andy suggested that I should get on it. After a nice walk in across a bit of moorland then a little forest (foraging for mushrooms) we had a nasty little damp descent before arriving at the base of Moyer's Buttress. The line looked clean and awesome so I pretty much jumped straight on it with Andy Rainer belaying. The initial slab wasn't a problem, then came the move round the arete past the loose block. It's loose but unable to fall out of the wall. I climbed it too quick and very nearly blew the crux as I'd stopped thinking about it. I quick retreat and the finding of a proper solid knee bar allowed a hands off rest and some good gear before my second attempt the the crux. This time I sent it (shakily) and headed on off up the final slab, which was hard. The moves felt pretty sketchy but I was just not used the grit or Gardoms (each edge has it's own character). I ended placing loads of gear on this final section but in all reality it wasn't that bad. I topped out smiling and brought up Andy.
Ronnie then had a crack at this on lead. He did pretty well but couldn't get the knee bar in so had to just go for the crux. Sadly he pumped out and missed it falling off. It was a pretty safe fall at the go and we got it on camera so await another video.
Where next? Well Andy wasn't too psyched for anything so after his recommendation I set off up Nowanda (HVS 5a). It's a proper crack climb that'll just spit you out if you can't jam. Which very nearly happened to me. I fought and fought with the blood rushing to my arms (and out of the end of them too) and manged to pull it off arrving panting and smiling on the top. Andy seconded it and agreed it was just as hard as last time.
With barely a moment to stop I was back on the lead of Landsick (E1 5b). This was a fun lead which I managed to mess up. I pumped out and just went for the crux instead of retreating and placing a good piece of gear. I narrowly avoided a nasty injury as I crashing into a boulder when I fell off. Back on the lead I placed a piece higher this time round and sent it, pumped. I normally hate falling off and failing on something, but this didn't bother me. I was having way too much fun climbing to care that much.
Andy found a route and he set off up a VS 5a slab climb. It was a little polished but it actually went pretty well. Andy flew up it making the moves look pretty easy and I seconded him trying for a direct line of nasty little crimps. In between all this I got loads of photoage of Ronnie leading and topping out for another little video.
Climbing was almost over for the day. I'd sent a crag classic, fallen off, got pumped, slipped on wet grass and just enjoyed myself. I managed to sneak seconding Nat up a Vs 5a to finish off the day nicely before the walk out and drive home. Couldn't really ask for more.
Ronnie then had a crack at this on lead. He did pretty well but couldn't get the knee bar in so had to just go for the crux. Sadly he pumped out and missed it falling off. It was a pretty safe fall at the go and we got it on camera so await another video.
Where next? Well Andy wasn't too psyched for anything so after his recommendation I set off up Nowanda (HVS 5a). It's a proper crack climb that'll just spit you out if you can't jam. Which very nearly happened to me. I fought and fought with the blood rushing to my arms (and out of the end of them too) and manged to pull it off arrving panting and smiling on the top. Andy seconded it and agreed it was just as hard as last time.
With barely a moment to stop I was back on the lead of Landsick (E1 5b). This was a fun lead which I managed to mess up. I pumped out and just went for the crux instead of retreating and placing a good piece of gear. I narrowly avoided a nasty injury as I crashing into a boulder when I fell off. Back on the lead I placed a piece higher this time round and sent it, pumped. I normally hate falling off and failing on something, but this didn't bother me. I was having way too much fun climbing to care that much.
Andy found a route and he set off up a VS 5a slab climb. It was a little polished but it actually went pretty well. Andy flew up it making the moves look pretty easy and I seconded him trying for a direct line of nasty little crimps. In between all this I got loads of photoage of Ronnie leading and topping out for another little video.
Climbing was almost over for the day. I'd sent a crag classic, fallen off, got pumped, slipped on wet grass and just enjoyed myself. I managed to sneak seconding Nat up a Vs 5a to finish off the day nicely before the walk out and drive home. Couldn't really ask for more.
No comments:
Post a Comment