Climbing after work?

Now if I lived in North Wales, Lakes, Peaks or even in Ludlow, this wouldn't seem like such an odd idea. However I'm stuck in Birmingham. Climbing after work takes a little planning. Planning seems synonyms with getting off work early.

I planned to go to newport bouldering anyway on thursday, but when I messaged everyone Ceara cheekily asked if I'd go out climbing on wednesday instead, and pick her up. After much debilberation I decided if the weather was good I may as well go. I'd asked Toaf to come too and he informed me that he would definatly be able to get off work early so we could dodge traffic.

Wednesday came around and the weather reports predicted heavy showers. Not wanting to go all the way to the Roaches to get rained on, but not wanting to risk missing out on a night out climbing meant this was a dilemma. I decided to risk it in the end, but Toaf couldn't get off work as his boss was going on a paranoid rant!.

I got to the Roaches at about 7 with Ceara. It was still really hot and muggy, not excellent grit weather. We did Sifta's Quid (HS 4b) without the final squeeze as I am too big. I really did try though. We then watched a guy take a great lob off the mancer. Right where you leave the overhang and head up the jamming crack. He said he just could get a decent jam in (he was up to his arms in crack) and fell off. We arrived to see him falling upside down and into the wall. I thought it was a hosiptal case but he was unharmed (cuts and bruises). They offered to let me finish the lead for them, and I Jumped at the chance. I've wanted to do the jamming crack to finish for ages, but havn't managed the start. Anyway I jammed my way up, arms deep, suffering from immense rope drag and a srtuck rope at one point. I finished, tied off the rope as it was jammed again and abseiled down to free it, covered in grit rash and smiling broadly. The guys, after see my struggle opted to rescue the gear by abseil.

Me and Ceara then went for Valkyrie (VS 4c) something I've never finished. I say finished as I've done most of the second pitch then it rained so I ab'd off, and backed off another day from bad Juju. I did the first pitch, and brought up Ceara. After the little traverse she was shaken (she hates traversing) so instead we sat on the ledge and talked whilst everyone walking past asked if we were stuck and need a headtorch!.

We reversed the traverse and headed home.

I stayed over at Cearas in the end, as driving back late at night seemed dumb prefering an early start instead. All in all, getting off work early and going climbing till late worked, though I've been really tired for the rest of the week. I'll be out climbing again mid week before the summer holidays are out!