Monday 8 June 2009

Wales 5th - 7th

Twos company, threes a crowd and fours a party? well whats nine then? ... another bloody good weekend in wales, thats what! Yet another weekend escaping from Birmingham to the land of rain itself. To be honest, I don't think many of us held much hopes for the weekend (other than to just get out of whatever city we've been trapped in). The weather report looked bad, like constant rain. Needless to say, I was still pretty happy.

The weekend probably kick started on Thursday when Jess (my car) got returned all fixed up. I'd been a real moper over this so this cheered me up. Also all week we'd had great weather (Me and dad spent each night after work building a shed, a massive shed) and I was hoping (in vain) that it would hold for the weekend. Me, Toaf and Becca headed up to Stoke on the Friday night to meet Nick, Claire, Tim and Ceara for a few beverages. Few was suposed to be the operative word as an early start was planned. Consequently I got to bed at about 2 am, (very drunk) after watching Tim stumble off home.

I guess heavy drinking and waking up early just don't go together. I woke up at 4am, and couldn't get back to sleep. A few of us were up for 7 but most stayed in bed. Not to worry as it was raining heavily. So after a lazy breakfast we set off for Wales. Leanne and Claire took thier cars around the top and Me and Toaf headed across country to pick up James. The plan was to
meet in Pete's! Can't really speak for everyones journey but me, Toaf and James had a right laugh. We all arrived in LLanberis about 45 minutes apart. Not bad timing if you ask me.

Over a great breakfast we discusssed some options for the day (bearing in mind it was sheeting it down with rain). Due to the heavy rain, the general consensus was to not go climbing (at least not outside anyway). Instead we decided on a exploration around Dinorwig Slate Quarry. Of course first we endulged in some extreme shopping in V12.

Off to Dinorwig we went, taking a bit of gear with us just in case. We saw some old gnarled feral goats in the comms house on the walk in. Then headed up to Australia wall and through all the easy access tunnels around there. We also headed into the blocked off tunnel near Dali's Walls (in the slate guide). This involved a bit of a squeeze as it has been blocked up with rubble but we managed it. Leanne found a helmet at the base of Austraila. We enjoyed some posh soup from James whilst sheltering in the little tunnel on looning the tube level. As we sat around we planned a night in the quarry with some climbing and biving. California was next on the list so down to the adit and through. We worked our way round so we could see into the "Entrance to Hades". I've been wanting to abseil into it for ages and see where it goes. Its just a great black hole that heads off somewhere. Thankfully as we were a party of like minded idiots and promptly abseiled into the hole.

It was pretty scary to say the least (I'm scared of the dark). We made it out to the other end (yep, theres and opening in the other for it). This did explain how they got the slate out of California, something that had been puzzeling me a little. The exit hole is in a surprising place, I'm not gonna say where, don't want to ruin if for any prospective explorers. walking back through I also found a brown tricam in the tunnel roof (a great day for crag swag).

Finally to we headed over to Twll Mawr (and stopped off at Never Never Land wall, just to look). We spent a while gazing into the depths of this giant hole. By nw the rain was coming in hard so we headed out, to find somewhere to sleep, eat and drink, preferably dry.

We stayed at the Vaynol Campsite (as if we were gonna stay anywhere else). We cooked in the washing up area in the end, then went for a beer in the pub. I'm going to be honest and say I really wasn't feeling the pub. Ever since they took down all the old decor it hasn't reallt felt the same, that said the ale does taste better! Instead of grumbling the evening away (and inflicting it on everyone else) me and Tim went climbing. Thats right, at 2200 and we headed off to do Rib and Slab (VD) on Craig Ddu in Llanberis Pass. It was raining but we managed to stay dry, also the climb was mostly dry and made for a good route apart from me nearly having a sheep induced panic attack.

For all the bad weather reports, sunday rolled around and it was dry. I'm not saying we had burning sunshine, but it was dry at least. So we had a lazy breakfast. I think there is a direct correlation between the size of a group of people and how quick they get moving in the morning. Also I have to point out that I ballsed up. In my packing haste, I'd packed two right climbing boots. With no left rock boots it looked like big boots for me that was until Tim lent me his old slip on murias. We headed to Milestone buttress in Ogwen valley, we'd come away to go climbing after all.

Becca and James headed off to do Pulpit Route (VD). This was the last we saw of them for about 4 hours, bear in mind this was a 5 pitch 87 metre route. Me, Tim and Ceara headed up The Super Direct (HVS 5a), whilst Toaf and Claire did the Direct Route (VD). The Super Direct was awesome, great climbing on immaculate rock. I couldn't believe the second pitch was only 4c (it was wet however). I brought Tim up while the exposure got to Ceara a little and she sent toaf up instead. (We didn't leave her alone on a ledge. We left her with Claire). Toaf nipped up and came off on a great pendulum due to wet rock. Tim opted out of the final pitch so off me and Toaf went. This was another great pitch with an really exposed traverse and the difficuilt crack to finish. I dropped and nut, so I abseiled down to rescue it whilst Toaf and Tim walked round. This walk round was a complete snadbagging as I pulled the ropes down (thinking I'd be help full). Apparently they needed to abseil for the descent so.

We waited ages for Tim and Toaf. When they'd come down, Leanne and Nick
went off for some coffee (Yes, Nick still has a coffee addiction). As james and Becca were not back, Me and Ceara headed up the Direct Route (VD). For a VD this is anything but easy (esp in big boots). The climb wanders up the cliff including slabby face climbing to leg deep thigh width cracks. Definatly a "classic" route as it cumulates in a chinmey. Wide enough for me to get in sideways, but to small to turn round in. I wish we'd had a camera as I would have looked very amusing thurtching and salmoning my way up this (I know this as Ceara laughed her head of at me). Ceara struggled up after and we headed down, with a bit of downclimbing and one abseil. After I'd finally got the rope down, and Becca and James had returned abound with tales of abseiling down a chimney to save stuck gear we headed back to the cars, to relax and then head home.

Was a really good weekend regardless of the fact that I got on nothing I'd intended on getting on (Comes The Dervish, and Never Never Land for example). I had a great time.

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