Gogarth, Slate and Llanberis Pass!

My hands are still sore with blood blisters forming on the end of my fingers. My arms ache, my shin hurts from rope burn and I've got sunburn on my neck. I fell of Dervish this weekend, but oddly I'm still smiling.

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In order to save Uncle Rob from his mother-in-law, we went to Wales. Being honest It didn't matter where we went, Rob just needed out. Dan having worked 26 days on the trot also needed out. I'd had the week from Hell, with abusive kids and fighting in my lessons, I wanted out. So we went to Wales. I drove up to stoke in bad weather. The Wolverhampton road had flood to about a 1.5 ft deep in places, so it took me a while. I thought we'd be in for a wet weekend. Picking Dan up in Stoke the weather was better, but not by much. We arrived quite late at the Vaynol to meet Rob and decided we'd see what the weather was like in the morning before we made any plans.

Well the weather was crap, so we had breakfast at Pete's before a short shopping trip in Llanberis. Joe Brown's called the coastguard on Holyhead and said the weather was lifting so we headed over to Gogarth. We rocked up and stared through (or was it into?) the cloud. Good weather? At least it was dry, almost bone dry in fact. Having only 2 cups of tea so far today, we had another in the South Stack cafe. this happened to be a good call as the weather brightened up to sunshine in this time and we headed to Castell Helen. We'd chosen to do Rap (VS 4c) as our first route of the weekend. At VS it was still one of the easiest route on the cliff, but it would be a good introduction to Gogarth. We borrowed an abseil of another parties rope, and found ourselves dangling above the ocean trying to find our the line of the first pitch.

I took pitch 1 and thoroughly enjoyed it. Good steep climbing, with plenty of gear and even some sea birds to contend with (flapping around, waving a sling and swearing got rid of them). At the stance I looked around for something to belay off. There was a couple of old pegs, one good nut slot and a bad cam. So I tied off an everything and brought Dan and Rob up. After an awkward bit of moving the belay around and finding the next pitch, Dan set off. He climbed well, seeming to be enjoying himself loads. Me and Rob chatted away, and just enjoyed being out and sitting on a ledge, listening to the ocean. "Safe" was called and he brought us back up. it was back to the cafe for another brew and to collect sunglasses from the car.

Another team had been raving on about how great North West Passage (E1 5a, 5b) was so we decided on this next. Rob decided to sit it out, preferring to enjoy the sunshine in safety. I abseiled in first and set a hanging belay above the ocean. There was some waves at the base so I chose to belay a little higher (remembering my last time here when I nearly got washed out to sea). Dangling there above the ocean I felt so alone, it seemed like an eternity before I saw Dan coming down the rope. before we ab'd Dan was unsure of whether he'd take the first pitch. He went for it when he was down there though. I watched nervously, hoping my ropes would pay out all right.

He climbed well, steadily moved up. Near the top I watched him careful place some gear, extend it with crazy disco leg and then run it out out of sight. I guess he was pretty gripped at the time. Eventually I heard "safe" called and he poked over his head smiling. Seconding I noted that it was a size 1 superlight rock (purple) and would no way have held the fall, especially since the next section was the crux of that pitch. Glad for the top rope I removed it and headed up. We shifted our belay around and I lead off on the final pitch.

I started well, running it out a little to the traverse. The traverse gave me some problems ( climbing head first into a horizontal grove only to exclaim "I think I might have done this wrong"). I kept sticking in as much gear as I could, regardless of quality. I didn't want to some off and take a big pendulum, but the gear wasn't great. I left my blue rope trailing to protect Dan. The route actually traverses right out to a peg, then head up and back left, meaning ropework is interesting. I kicked the peg, decided it was good then clipped it and headed up. I eventually gained the correct groove, moved up and then stepped out onto the face in a beautiful move. The finish was easy. I enjoyed the pitch immensely, and arrived at Rob, who gave me some much needed water. When Dan arrived we said what a great climb it was and Dan decided that he needed new boots and his were too small.

Seeing as Rob was done with sea cliffs, we headed back in land to climb on a bit og slate. We parked up by Vivian quarry and headed for Comes the Dervish (E3 5c). Some would have thought that finishing the day on a climb this hard is rather silly (I did after words). I love Vivan quarry and the walk into Dervish Slab, but this time I did it feeling apprehensive and unsure of myself. I looked up at the line of Dervish, a line I've wanted over and over. I didn't feel ready for it. Rob greased me up with midge repellant as we didn't want me to have greasey hands.

I armed myself with my skyhook and more micro nuts and set off. The start was my crux. I couldn't get my feet feeling secure on any of the holds, not my hands either for that matter. I placed one micro and then my RP2. It didn't look good, but I needed to get moving. I was right about it not looking good, when at about 6 metres I fell off. My feet popped, I got tangled in the rope on the way down, the RP rippped out and I landed partly on Rob and the floor. I was alright; shaken, bruised and a little rope burnt. What followed was a deathly silence from Rob and Dan. Afterwards they told me they didn't know what to say. should they encourage me or suggest leaving it. It started climbing back up.

Rob was fantastic, yelling which rope to clip as I was so gripped. Sinking the 1.5 cam at 8 metres did little to quell my fear of falling, but still I moved up, seeing another good piece of gear ahead, or a slightly better rest. I slipped off again, but my gear held this time and I carried on. Reaching the overlap I gunned straight up and over it. It wasn't a hard move at all, but maybe adrenaline was keeping me a little more on my toes. I looked for more gear, and found some RP0 slots. Not what I was looking for, but better than nothing so I carried on up. I made it, smiling glad to still be in one piece. I've never been so scared in my life.

I stripped the route myself after Rob said he couldn't do it. Dan said he wasn't feeling it either. Probably good decisions on their parts. As we walked out, Dan said "mate, you've got big kahunas". This meant a lot made me smile. We headed back to camp, got ravaged my midges, got some food and hit the pub for a night of drinking and discussing the many varied and ethical topics in climbing. It rained on the walk back to the tents.

We arose nice and early, and a little worse for wear. After some crap porridge (seriously, never again having porridge) we headed into Llanberis Pass hoping we'd get a parking space. Our aim was something on Dinas Mot. Last time I climbed there I managed to drop my belay device off, whilst we were Bailing off the Direct Route. This time, we headed up the Superdirect (E1 5b). Rob took the first pitch and brought up me and Dan. Arriving at Rob's first piece of gear Dan happily shouted "ooo in-situ gear!" only to then realise it was actually part of Robs rack!. Dan took the second pitch and was on the lead for what seemed like hours. When me and Rob came up we would both agree that its was a stiff lead. The route wasn't too clear and the gear not great so well done to Dan, great lead. I took the Final pitch and guess what? I lobbed off again, and again. Eventually I admitted I couldn't do it and as neither Dan or Rob wanted to take it, I headed off up the Direct route VS 5b (now theres an interesting grade). This cheered me up no end (I was moody from falling off). I brought the others up, rescued my gear, then we abseiled down the descent gully and decided to call it a day.

This was a good call, as it started to rain.

On the whole this weekend I threw myself at things that were probably beyond me in the heat and how tired I was. It still had an awesome weekend, but I think I'll take it easier, preferring to finish a easier route, rather than falling off an hard one. No body wants to fall off

(Dan attentively belaying, asleep)

20th - 21st Lakes - Wasdale

Well in my last post I was praying for good weather, I almost got what I prayed for. Also this week Claire has added in her side of the story (italics) although she still left most of the story telling up to me.

I got off work early on friday, only to drive my Dad to a charity cricket match at which we found that the boot had broken! The thing won't unlock, unless you use a ten peg from the inside.

I got off up to Preston to rescue Claire as her car has died. Eventually I managed to pick her up from somewhere in Manchester as she was down there viewing a new car. We got back to Preston and made it to Blackpool just as her mates gig was starting. They sounded a little like Dropkick Murphy's. I was pretty impressive watching this dude pulling of hardcore solos on a harmonica!

Saturday came around with an early start as we planned a big day out on Engineers Slab, Gable Crag. As we got closer to the Lakes the weather did not look good (hardly surprising). We very quickly made a decision to head to Scarfell Crag instead. For some odd reason this seemed a better plan than going the shorter distance to Great Gable, but we didn't worry about that.

Everybody seemed to be heading up Scarfell on Saturday. This puzzled me until I realised that they were all Three Peaks Challenge people. I saw people of all shapes and sizes, prepared and grossly under-prepared and of all ages heading up. I'm usually a grumpy bugger about that many people in "my" mountains, but it was so cool to have a friendly hello or a short chat to all these different people on the way up.

Up we plodded with the masses. Seems like no matter how much I attempt to lighten my rack, its still just going to be heavy (maybe time to start swapping out for lighter biners). We got there in about 2 hours, a respectable time seeing as we spent a lot of the walk sitting down, having lunch or gesticulating wildly whilst ranting at the weather to behave (it kept raining you see). We chose Botterill's Slab (VS 4c) on the Central Buttress. The line looked so obvious on the crag (easy for route finding in thick cloud) and it sort of screamed out to be climbed. Anyway it was also wet so our options were limited. We geared up below a short scramble to the base of the route.

This scramble proved to be a terrifying dash upwards on wet holds, grass and loose gravel. I was only too happy to arrive at the nice flat solid ledge. This seemed an ominous start to our climb and I headed up the first pitch heavy with doubt. It says in the guide "4b short chimney to up to ledge". However the "chimney" appeared to be a bigger groove in a system of grooves and proved very difficult whilst wet. I struggled and thrutched my way up thanking Claire (in my head) for making me bring my hexes. I arrived at the belay happy not to have fallen off, but now even more unsure of whether I could lead the next 4c pitch. Trying in vain to keep the rope dry I brought up Claire. Claire seemed to progress up this pitch using everything; knees, elbows, head? We re-racked my gear and the rope, shared some unsure glances and then I headed off.

The scramble up to the first pitch (which we later discovered could be reached by a lovely path) taught me a vaugely useful lesson; clawing at grassy moss is more effective than using slopey wet holds. This meant that I ended up taking a 'direct route' up the 'scramble' through a near vertical patch of greenery, anoyingly wet greenery that soaked straight through whatever touched it. Which happened to be most of me as I salmoned up it.

I love delicate friction slab climbing, but not today. Friction wasn't so much a good friend now he was damp. I picked the driest line up the slab, but still had to dry out some holds. Made me think maybe a rag would have been a useful addition to my rack, but my poor old hat sufficed instead. I tried to get in as much gear as I could, using up my medium wires as I went before a great size 1.5 cam slot. This proved to be the 4c crux. I deliberated (built up the courage) to make the next few moves to a small ledge I could see. Instead of my usual hammering up on my arms, I h to find the driest most positive little edge for purchase that I could, then hope my feet wouldn't pop off. After a few more metres I gained the good ledge added more gear to the slab and then set off again. This time closer to the edge and near the 100m drop.

The rock started to get a little drier, then the cloud swept in and the wind picked up blowing me into the wall (least it might hold me on a bit better!). By now I was freezing, having ditched my fleece in an effort to go a little faster and lighter. Never the less I was loving it and getting closer to the belay with each move. About 8ft below the ledge I placed my two largest single wires in a couple of bad cracks. It wasn't that I was too cold to care, I just needed something in as I was balancing on wet smears. I crimped a good hold with my right hand and grabbed the arete with my left and moved my feet up as high as I could, ready to just pop for the top.

Thankfully I made it and breathing an immense sigh of relief, relaxed. Its amazing how much difference a bit of moisture makes on a climb? I set about constructing my belay, snapped a few shots of Claire and then brought her up. She seemed less than happy with the state of the route, but still enjoyed it. I remember a very nervous expression when she made the last move, ripping out my wires quickly and dashing to the top.

At the ledge after reading the guide book, I realised that I was ten metres short of the pitch set in the guide book. This left a 47 metre pitch to finish off the route and top out. Topping out of course being a relative term as the terrain looked like a roped descent might be needed in the wet. I headed up what was more like a grade 3 scramble and kept going until rope drag forced a halt and belay. By now Claire was well out of sight and hearing distance. I yelled that she was on belay and to climb but heard nothing in return so settled on the three sharp tugs. Feeling some slack in the rope, I started taking in. Occasionally I heard yells of take on the wind. She had a massive smile on her face as she arrived, I think this pitch had made her day.

The massive grin was because I'd found some dry holds and friction on the last pitch, after the first two sketchy ones this just felt amazing and gave me an impression of just how enjoyable the climb would be on a dry sunny day. It was a great note to end on and had me buzzing until Matt found a peg...

We stayed roped together for part of the descent until, as it happened the weather finally cleared up blessing us with clear views all around. We bumbled along the broken ground making for Mickledore col. I found an rather new looking peg and taking a look at the terrain beyond decided an abseil was in order. I set this up, back it up, tested it and then off I wet, helpfully throwing my almost still dry rope into a stream! We both ended up on the scree and scrambled up to Mickledore, only to descend to the bags for some food, water and a much needed break!

A rather new looking peg my ass, anything with rust doesn't qualify as new in my book. But I forgave it it's rust and agreed to strip out the back up and follow matt down. Then he bounce tested it, and sure it didn't break, but it wobbled, and with every little jerk as he descended the whole thing flexed in an utterly disturbing way. *Poof* My buzz was gone, stupid abseiling, stupid Matt, and stupid lack of nice shinny ab points, I missed sport climbing! But being inherently lazy I headed down anyway, he's heavier and it didn't break for him anyway!

The peg really was ok, and claire had taken so long to arrive it already ruthlessly tested it. The weather really had brightened up now and we descended rather quickly (occasionally relaxing on nice looking boulders) chatting to people still walking up to Scarfell. When we arrived back at the car, I looked down at my poor merrells. I don't think they actually like being used a approach shoes. I'm going to have to sew the front of them back up now. We set off on a hunt for some cheep camping. Woop! We noticed a £2.50 per night camping outside the pub. This had the added benefit that we could enjoy and damn good pint inside.

Needless to say, we did enjoy a nice pint, then another. Seeing as we'd been on the go all day, drank about a litre of water we were promptly quite drunk and stumbled foolishly back to our tent!

Matt somehow managed to put up the tent and cook beany pasta. I was not help what so ever, in fact I think all I did was complain about his dinner then steal it when he wasn't looking. I'd had a damn good goulash in the pub so mixed beans and pasta didn't really compare!

Considering the original plan had been to spend the whole weekend in the lakes before my car had imploded and I commandeered Matt for car hunting all sunday,we'd had a great time. Seems like my best memories involves things not going to plan, getting rained on at somepoint then making the most of a less and desirable situation. Anyway we topped our weekend off with an incredible gooyey roadside cheeseburger for breakfast, and I manged to buy a car. What more could you ask for?

Praying for good weather?

Everyone seems to be away this weekend again. Not to worry as Claire is now carless and need rescuing from Preston. So in fact no everyone is away this weekend. Anyway I'm not praying on the weather so I can get some more climbing in this weekend. We're going up to the Lake District but I'm not sure exactly where, we'll make the call on the day.

Also Me and Dan's alps trip looks like its now underway! the dates are organised and its going to be a busy week and a bit, but It's all looking good!

So bring on the weekend I say.

13th 14th June: No one to climb with, huh?

Well the grit rash has cleared up off my arms and hands. I've also finally showered. For a week that started out looking like I'd would have no body to climb with, it been a long weekend. May as well start at the beginning...

My diary is full of who's available when. Maybe I am a little obsessed with climbing, but obsession is just a word used by the lazy to describe the dedicated (I must confess I stole this off Becca). This weekend seemed like there was going to be no one to climb with. Shopping, families and life in general seemed to be taking up peoples time (not that I blame them). Many hurried messages were sent out and eventually a reply from Uncle Rob. Seems we were going climbing in saturday in Llangollen, then Toaf offered an early morning climb on sunday, before he met a friend. I think he knew I was going to go crazy.

So an early start saturday to drop my parents off in Birmingham (they were going to London for the weekend) and then off out to Ludlow. Obviousley I missed the turning to Robs house, but I got there eventually. This is probably where the early start wore off as we sat around drinking tea whilst deciding where to go. We settled on Llangollen, so to High Sports in Shrewbury for the guide book. By the time we'd got to Shrewsbury however, plans had changed and we were now heading for some Rhinog grit. We picked up Nicky in Welshpool and set off. The traffic was pretty bad so as we drove pass Cwm Cywrach. Surprise surprise! yet again plans changed. From hard limestone,to grit outcrops, to mountain rhyolite, eventually we got somewhere.

At Cwm Cywrach we headed over to Craig Llywelyn. The short walk in dropped us at the base of a massive buttress of rhyolite, which was pretty well endowed with plant life. We spotted a few cleaner lines and set off up towards Archeron (HVS). In fact we ended up on Doom (VS 4c) as this looked cleaner but also with better climbing. We swapped leads with Rob taking pitch 1 then me. The climbing was great, combining some gymnastic moves with a bit of loose rock and lichen covered holds. This was definatly a mountaineers route as opposed to the a clean multipitch crags you find in the pass. The last pitch proved a gearless overhang, topping out in heather which we belayed up. The climb definatly got a veg rating of 3. With more traffic this crag would be really popular, sadly it doesn't seem to get it. It probably gets used for winter climbing quite well (I plan to go back there). Me and Rob decided to find more out of the way crags and esotertic fun over the rest of the summer. This may result in a brush for cleaning holds becoming part of my rack.

We descended and walked around to Tap Mawr, hunting for some sun. We got there, eventually, after a scrambly walk through a tonne of bracken (which incidentally filled my shoes). Sadly however the bane of all life that is, midges, drove us off the crag and we ran back to the car. We found some awesome muchrooms whilst balancing on a log over a river. It just had to be done, but it did lead us to some large Dryads Saddle mushrooms. My mother still won't allow me to eat them even though I've told her they're edible. Anyway a pint in the local pub of purple moose brewery ale ended the day.

A long winding drive home took us back to Robs for a venison burger. Seriously nice burger, I just had to mention it and some planning for the next few weeks away so we definatly get some more climbing in. Eventually I got home at 2230 ish to get to bed for another 6am start in the morning.

Well Toaf was wide awake and ready when I got to his house (this can be rare occurance). We still sat around talking and set off 10 minutes late though. We drove tiredly up to Ramshaw. Toaf stayed awake, quite good considering he'd been out partying the night before. We pulled up to Ramshaw and wandered over. I've mislayed my BMC Roaches guide, so we were using my copy of On Peak Rock. I think we just planned to start at one end and tick off all the routes we could do working along the crag. We jumped on The Crank first. At VS 5a I thought it would be a good introduction to Ramshaw grit (which I swear is pointier!). Some great jamming lead to a awkward exit, but I ploughed in my new cams and made it up. Toaf enjoyed it too. I know I enjoyed seeing him semi-jam-come-laybacky-smear his way up. We had a good laugh on it.

We then went to take a look at Traveller in time. Take a look was the operative phrase here as at E4 6a, it would be the hardest climb I've ever attempted. We had a good look at it, trying to glean as much information as we could without actaully abseiling down it. I thought I'd give it ago anyway, so we flaked out the ropes, I chose my gear and headed on up. I can see why Flemmy spent most of the year raving on about it. Its got great gear up to the crux, which proved to be a reachy move right, matching the hands, then mantle-shelfing up on onto it. I don't know what I did during the mantle-shelf but I hurt my chest near to the point of tears. Toaf thought I was having a heart attack! Itook a breather and I was fine, just scared. The top out was a sketchy clamber up on slopey holds. I sat on the top and screamed with happiness, more so that I'd not fallen off.

I think this fed my rat, at least for a few days as we went to look at Ramshaw Crack and didn't fancy the struggle. Neither me or Toaf could get inspired to climb anymore at Ramshaw, so he went to solo some routes whilst I lay in the sun and tried to catch up on my sleep. We spent the rest of the day, eating, rescuing Toaf from Hanley Park toilets, drinking beers in the sun and watching Black adder.

For a weekend with no-one to climb with I seemed to get alot of climbing done?

Wales 5th - 7th

Twos company, threes a crowd and fours a party? well whats nine then? ... another bloody good weekend in wales, thats what! Yet another weekend escaping from Birmingham to the land of rain itself. To be honest, I don't think many of us held much hopes for the weekend (other than to just get out of whatever city we've been trapped in). The weather report looked bad, like constant rain. Needless to say, I was still pretty happy.

The weekend probably kick started on Thursday when Jess (my car) got returned all fixed up. I'd been a real moper over this so this cheered me up. Also all week we'd had great weather (Me and dad spent each night after work building a shed, a massive shed) and I was hoping (in vain) that it would hold for the weekend. Me, Toaf and Becca headed up to Stoke on the Friday night to meet Nick, Claire, Tim and Ceara for a few beverages. Few was suposed to be the operative word as an early start was planned. Consequently I got to bed at about 2 am, (very drunk) after watching Tim stumble off home.

I guess heavy drinking and waking up early just don't go together. I woke up at 4am, and couldn't get back to sleep. A few of us were up for 7 but most stayed in bed. Not to worry as it was raining heavily. So after a lazy breakfast we set off for Wales. Leanne and Claire took thier cars around the top and Me and Toaf headed across country to pick up James. The plan was to meet in Pete's! Can't really speak for everyones journey but me, Toaf and James had a right laugh. We all arrived in LLanberis about 45 minutes apart. Not bad timing if you ask me.

Over a great breakfast we discusssed some options for the day (bearing in mind it was sheeting it down with rain). Due to the heavy rain, the general consensus was to not go climbing (at least not outside anyway). Instead we decided on a exploration around Dinorwig Slate Quarry. Of course first we endulged in some extreme shopping in V12.

Off to Dinorwig we went, taking a bit of gear with us just in case. We saw some old gnarled feral goats in the comms house on the walk in. Then headed up to Australia wall and through all the easy access tunnels around there. We also headed into the blocked off tunnel near Dali's Walls (in the slate guide). This involved a bit of a squeeze as it has been blocked up with rubble but we managed it. Leanne found a helmet at the base of Austraila. We enjoyed some posh soup from James whilst sheltering in the little tunnel on looning the tube level. As we sat around we planned a night in the quarry with some climbing and biving. California was next on the list so down to the adit and through. We worked our way round so we could see into the "Entrance to Hades". I've been wanting to abseil into it for ages and see where it goes. Its just a great black hole that heads off somewhere. Thankfully as we were a party of like minded idiots and promptly abseiled into the hole.

It was pretty scary to say the least (I'm scared of the dark). We made it out to the other end (yep, theres and opening in the other for it). This did explain how they got the slate out of California, something that had been puzzeling me a little. The exit hole is in a surprising place, I'm not gonna say where, don't want to ruin if for any prospective explorers. walking back through I also found a brown tricam in the tunnel roof (a great day for crag swag).

Finally to we headed over to Twll Mawr (and stopped off at Never Never Land wall, just to look). We spent a while gazing into the depths of this giant hole. By nw the rain was coming in hard so we headed out, to find somewhere to sleep, eat and drink, preferably dry.

We stayed at the Vaynol Campsite (as if we were gonna stay anywhere else). We cooked in the washing up area in the end, then went for a beer in the pub. I'm going to be honest and say I really wasn't feeling the pub. Ever since they took down all the old decor it hasn't reallt felt the same, that said the ale does taste better! Instead of grumbling the evening away (and inflicting it on everyone else) me and Tim went climbing. Thats right, at 2200 and we headed off to do Rib and Slab (VD) on Craig Ddu in Llanberis Pass. It was raining but we managed to stay dry, also the climb was mostly dry and made for a good route apart from me nearly having a sheep induced panic attack.

For all the bad weather reports, sunday rolled around and it was dry. I'm not saying we had burning sunshine, but it was dry at least. So we had a lazy breakfast. I think there is a direct correlation between the size of a group of people and how quick they get moving in the morning. Also I have to point out that I ballsed up. In my packing haste, I'd packed two right climbing boots. With no left rock boots it looked like big boots for me that was until Tim lent me his old slip on murias. We headed to Milestone buttress in Ogwen valley, we'd come away to go climbing after all.

Becca and James headed off to do Pulpit Route (VD). This was the last we saw of them for about 4 hours, bear in mind this was a 5 pitch 87 metre route. Me, Tim and Ceara headed up The Super Direct (HVS 5a), whilst Toaf and Claire did the Direct Route (VD). The Super Direct was awesome, great climbing on immaculate rock. I couldn't believe the second pitch was only 4c (it was wet however). I brought Tim up while the exposure got to Ceara a little and she sent toaf up instead. (We didn't leave her alone on a ledge. We left her with Claire). Toaf nipped up and came off on a great pendulum due to wet rock. Tim opted out of the final pitch so off me and Toaf went. This was another great pitch with an really exposed traverse and the difficuilt crack to finish. I dropped and nut, so I abseiled down to rescue it whilst Toaf and Tim walked round. This walk round was a complete snadbagging as I pulled the ropes down (thinking I'd be help full). Apparently they needed to abseil for the descent so.

We waited ages for Tim and Toaf. When they'd come down, Leanne and Nick went off for some coffee (Yes, Nick still has a coffee addiction). As james and Becca were not back, Me and Ceara headed up the Direct Route (VD). For a VD this is anything but easy (esp in big boots). The climb wanders up the cliff including slabby face climbing to leg deep thigh width cracks. Definatly a "classic" route as it cumulates in a chinmey. Wide enough for me to get in sideways, but to small to turn round in. I wish we'd had a camera as I would have looked very amusing thurtching and salmoning my way up this (I know this as Ceara laughed her head of at me). Ceara struggled up after and we headed down, with a bit of downclimbing and one abseil. After I'd finally got the rope down, and Becca and James had returned abound with tales of abseiling down a chimney to save stuck gear we headed back to the cars, to relax and then head home.

Was a really good weekend regardless of the fact that I got on nothing I'd intended on getting on (Comes The Dervish, and Never Never Land for example). I had a great time.

A week in France?

Day 1: Sushi in an Airport

Well Claire came down on the Fridday night, and stay over so we could pack. Instead we watch I, Robot and then hurriedly crammed everything into the bag (borrowing some scale off our next door neighbours). We promply jumped into the car and headed to the airport.

We arrived (after a little worry about the traffic) to find the car parking guys worried about us and that we’d miss our flight. Needless to say, we didn’t and we lugged out 24.5kg bag around the airport for a while till we decided to sit down and eat something, sushi! I’ll admit I was scared. I’m not a great fan of flying. Claire found this all very assuming!

Well the flight went alright and we met Sassa, Fabrice, Melissa and Mystique (le chat) that night. I think this was the start of the salad.

Day 2: Ou est la trad climbing?

We met Idhir and Simmin (Claire Brother and his partner) at En Masse. We did sleep in too late so there was not market for Claire. At En Masse, we jumped cars and Idhir took us to Chamonix to get set up at the camp site. Then he took us out for a meal (and also got us drunk).

We also went for a nice walk, ploughing through the French undergrowth involving snakes and giant ants nests!

After a cobbled conversation with Fabrice the night before, I’d enquired about some trad climbing. I explained that in England, we call placing your own protection, trad climbing. He said, maybe one or people, may possibly do that. He also said that “trad climbing” in France meant clipping bolts. He also called me a “kamikaze British climber” for placing my own gear on route.

We found a Guide book in Cham (in English) and planned our climbing for the next few days! We’d noticed some massive slabs on the way up above Agentire, which we planned to find.

Day 3: Bloody Ibex

We got up, early-ish. The camp site we stayed at (Mer de Glace) gave us uber-cool-free-travel-anywhere-in-Chamonix-valley cards, so we headed for the bus stop. After a slight miscalculation with the bus time table, meaning we didn’t need our early start, we were finally on our way.

We got dropped in Montroc, which was a little further, but it only meant an hours walk to the crag (Les chesery). This wouldn’t have been a problem, apart from the 31 degree weather which was trying to fry us. Either way we persevered and struggled to the crag. We actually managed to enjoy lunch under the glorious shade of some trees. Oddly there was still snow at the base of the crag.

We headed up Voie Bleue D+ (hardest pitch was F5c). At 150m metres long in the mid day sun, it was quite a climb (with my tiny stripped down trad rack, few nuts and cams). Long slabs, then grooves and a corner crack! We abseiled off only to find the industrious Ibex had eaten all our spare food!

We had to run for the bus (which we did in 40 minutes) and then went into Cham for some more food and a meal.

Day 4: “You guys are defiantly from the UK!”

Well today we did get up early (or at least tried too). Bad thunderstorm have been predicted for the afternoon so we thought we'd get the climbing in before it rained. We headed up to Vallorcine, apparently the best granite crag in the area. Obviously our early start was busted when we had to wait an hour for the train, but it was alright. The crag is like 15 minutes from the railway so when we got there we ran in and... it rained (but of course). So we sheltered a boulder whilst he listened to some english speaking chaps yelling as they abseil off. They caught up with us under our rock. It had stopped raining by this point. We got talking and ask them if they where leaving, they said they were. As the rain had stopped we said we'd probably go climbing anyway only for they to retort "your definatly from the UK, its coming in hard" (they were Aussies or Kiwis, couldn't tell which). Anyway we went climbing and had a great time on Le Plantigrade magnesophage (F5c). Someone had stripped the insitu gear from the third pitch so i took my rack along (finally some trad climbing!). It did however rain again, hard like the guys said it would, whilst I was finishing the third pitch (took awhile but I got a little lost, it involved some abseiling) and claire climbed in the rain. There was not point bailing off, we had nowhere dry to run to so. We finished

that, then Claire lead a 4c single picth which was great, but again meant we had to run for the train...which was late! We went back to chamonix and had fondue (sooooo much cheese, I almost died). The trains from cham wern't running so we had to get a taxi. We asked the waiter if he could call us one. We the guy charged us throught the nose for one, we said we'd wait and the waiter called a mate instead. He turned up a few minutes later and took us back in his car! how awesome!

Day 5: “Is good recreation, no?”

Our final day in chamonix area came around. We hiked up to Les Chepeau (didn't get up early enough to climb) then got the bus back to chamonix. Fabrice came to pick us up and we head home... or so we thought. Instead he said we were going to do some via ferrata. We headed up to [insert name] and he got us sorted with his spare lanyards and off we went. Claire said it took to it like a duck to water as I ran nimbly across little ladders and wire bridges.

Day 6: A French market, and some sausage

We took a day off and went round a market with Sassa. The market was awesome with so much fresh food. We had loads of dried sausage (free samples!). We spent the rest of the day relaxing and reading I think (pretty much read Lord of the Flys in one day).

Day 7: A day of sport.

Fabrice came home from work early and me and claire sorted lunch. We headed off to Haut Chablaise for a day of sport climbing (there was not trad gear in site). Fabrice Told us that this cliff was used for Frances first climbing competition. Since it has fallen out of favour and isn't a poular crag now. Its hard to undersatnd why as the cliff is excellent limestone, the bolts are all looked after and it has areally nice 10 minute walking through a forest. Well we went anyway, and pretty much had the crag to ourselves. Fabrice started up Biberon (F4a,5b+,6a) and took pitch one and lowered off, both me and Claire sec

oned this and then I headed up pitches 2 and 3 with Fabrice. Claire then lead Carmel (F4/5) then pitches 1 and 2 of Daffy (F4a, 5b, 6a). I took the last pitch and ran out of quickdraws so used up everything on my harness. This we read after was the crag classic! The Fabrice took pitch 1 of Pampers (F5b, 5c, 5b) and took pitches 2/3. This rounded off our day nicely, and we headed home.

Day 8: Going home

Well the end of outr trip came around. Some mad packing enable us to cram everything in our case (only weight 29 kilos) and we made it to the airport with plenty of time. Back in Britian, the weather was unusually nice.

This was an awesome trip, even though it envolved loads of sport climbing! Climbing with Fabrice was awesome. He attitude towards climbing was completly different to mine, yet at the same time we were doing the same thing. Actually the whole "french" attitude towards climbing was different but still awesome. I really enojyed myself (and hopefully so did Claire) and I'm taking away from this trip, not to mind if there a few bolts on the climb, just clip them and move on. At the end of the day, we're all doing the same thing, enjoying ourselves.

Anyway, Fabrice is coming over in the summer. I'm going to the take the poor guy real trad climbing (insert very evil laugh).