Probably more impressive is that I've updated by blog, something I've let slip. The last few days have been a bit of a blast with regards to climbing. I'm still carrying an ankle injury (not ankle injuries though!) but I'm also sporting a possible broken toe. My foot fits into my climbing shoe, which I guess is something. Having now mentioned I'm full of injuries I've still been climbing all weekend... and Monday.
Saturday was spent at the Roaches. Both Andy and I haven't actually climbing outside in a while and with the weather report (light snow in the afternoon) we didn't think we'd get any climbing in. We probably should have started earlier as well to avoid the snow but we didn't. We stuck close to home (well Stoke) and went to the Roaches. I lead first and did Kestrel Crack (HS 4b) and had a cracking time on it. I've actually done this route before, but it was a miserable day with cold damp weather so I was happy to be able to experience the route in the dry. I think Andy really enjoyed it as well. We both ended up grinning broadly as he topped out and we could look down at the view. The broad grin's probably had more to do with all the little mishaps we'd had seeing as it was the first time out in ages. I'd managed to pull up the ropes without Andy tying in and he'd managed to leave behind a piece of gear, which I had to fish out on abseil. Andy then got lost on the walk-off.
Andy lead the next route, which was Fledglings Climb (Severe 4a). He hasn't lead for a while and this was his first lead of the year (I know, he's left it a bit late). He was in for a right treat as well because the snow which was forecast, actually decided to fall. Didn't stop Andy climbing though and he topped out with no problems. I seconded him up and we headed to the upper tier.
After a considerable amount of faffing around we finally settled on a route (via flipping a coin) which I was to lead. It was Black and Tans variation (HVS 5a). Being honest I've been looking at doing this route for a while, but I've been put off by the blank looking and unprotected start. This wasn't the case and instead I enjoyed a few moves of balancy slab climbing, above some alright-ish gear before gaining the corner crack of the parent route. This was (and always is) a joy to climb, it's just a shame it's so short. Then there was the final slab and overhang to deal with. Having looked back at the topo I was probably too far to the right but I still enjoyed what I'd climb. I got to sit and belay as the snow fell. Rather cold we descended after Andy had seconded up in the snow. We did ask the coin if we should do another route, but ignored what it told us and headed back.
After a short days trad climbing how had my toe and ankle fared? Well I keep the ankle strapped up in a plastic brace which my physio gave me and spend most of the time during activity dosed up on painkillers so it wasn't too painful by the end of the day. It's slowly getting better which each outing but I still need to be careful on it. As for the toe, well that just got more and more painful throughout the day. The pain lessened after I took off the rock shoe, so that problem is solved. What I did notice is that because I've not been climbing much recently, I've lost loads of muscle mass from my upper body. It's kind of nice to be reduced to having to think about using my feet so much more. Another positive thing I can take from not climbing as much is that I packed my bag from empty for once, instead of just putting water bottles in a prepacked bag (generally from the day before). It wasn't filled with all the accumulated crap I normally end up lugging round with me. It was just climbing gear, small amount of food/water and a warm layer. It was just nice to have a reasonably light sack for once.
Sunday was spent doing more climbing, well actually bouldering. I spent the day walking up a treeless valley (that might be an overstatement, they've not felled the whole valley yet) to Ousal Crag. They really are doing a lot of felling work there. The trees in the area are all infected with a parasite so they're being felling and instead "proper English woodland" is being planted in it's place. This will in theory look beautiful but it'll take some time. It it going to be nice to watch all the ash and beech growing up before the oak trees take hold and the change in biodiversity and undergrowth vegetation will make the area amazing in the spring. I'm already looking forward to spending a week bouldering there sometime in the far future and enjoying watching the trees change colour in the autumn.
Instead of waxing lyrical about some romantic view of the great outdoors I'll get back to bouldering, which was good. Considering I've not been seriously bouldering for about 5 months it would probably have been quite folly to expect to get anywhere on the 7a traverse (a constant source of frustration) but this wasn't the case. I'm not going to lie, I wasn't exactly up for bouldering but after procrastinating for as long as I could I did eventually put on my shoes and start working on the traverse again... and I got further than I've ever got! Over the course of the next couple of hours I managed to climb (in sections) the whole 7a sequence. This is something I've never actually managed before.
The day ended with me being knackered and hurting across my upper body. Apparently using muscles that have gotten fat and happy over the last three/fours months means they don't like you anymore then just ache afterwards. I was really happy with what I actually got done on the bouldering and again my toe hurt a lot, but that pain went after I took off my climbing shoes.
Monday was then spent in Redpoint Climbing Centre, for around nine hours! Not all of the time was spent climbing or bouldering as there was a lot of rest needed and tea to be drunk. This didn't stop me having a pretty awesome day climbing indoors for hours and hours. I left feeling sore, tired and happy.
I guess you once you've been climbing for a while, no matter how much time you have off once you're back climbing it's like it was yesterday (apart from being frustrated by a lack of strength). It's been such a nice change to be out climbing for a weekend rather than caving. Don't get me wrong, I love caving to bits but I've felt that life has had too narrow a focus for the last few months. Staying above ground is just as fun as being under it.
Here's to more time spent on, in, under but hopefully not falling off rock, in all it's bizarre forms and varieties!
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