more smocks...

About 2008 I brought a RAB VP trail jacket. At the time I was mainly bumbling around in the mountains training for my ML and single pitch climbing. I didn't really know what a soft-shell was but I knew that something soft, warm, water-resistant and windproof would fit the bill. This is how I ended up with a VR jacket, up until I brought a Paramo Smock this has been my single most useful outdoor jacket. 

But times change and my use for a piece of mountain clothing has differed. I like a smock because I spend most of my time in a harness and in a single item of clothing. I'm not too big on the whole layering thing and taking off layers when I'm hot and adding them when I'm cold. This stems from a couple of things. One reason is because I just don't carry a host of fleeces, base layers, windstoppers, jackets and waterproofs out in the mountains. This leads onto the second reason, you can't carry a flippin' change of clothes up routes with you. At most you can carry a belay jacket and this luxury is reserved for winter rock climbing. Instead if I'm hot I unzip everything and vent (something the paramo jacket is good at) if I'm cold I zip everything up (de-vent) and snuggle down in what ever jacket I've got on, hell I might even add a scarf and a woolly hat if it's really cold.

So seeing as I stay in a my outer layer pretty much all the time the paramo jacket has been great. It's warm, really ventable and really hardwearing. That hasn't stopped it getting trashed in the 6 months I sort of constantly worn it like some kind fo second skin. Its been caving, cragging, sea cliffs, dragged dropped, sat on, used as a pillow. It's had a good life and still has years of life left in it.

But I got a new smock the other, and I paid well nothing for it. A friend of mine has a VR smock (in "breaking and entering black") which he never actually wears because he dislikes the smock format. I have a VR jacket that I've retired because it's been surpassed by a new smock. A trade was done and a new smock was aquired! It's like recycling but better!

So a new jacket and a new day's climbing. I spent at 2 little locations in the Peak. The first was Aldery Cliff, which was the subject of a UKC forum debate a few weeks ago. Apparently the entire crag is too overgrown, the lower off's are old and dangerous and the whole place needs the loose rock removed and a good garden. The poster wanted a clean up of the crag and then instead of tied lower offs on trees and spikes new double bolt belays or sport style lower offs should be put in place. But wait there is more! He also wants the "poorer" trad lines to be bolted as this will encourage people to do them and make the venue more popular.

I'm not sure if people are familiar with Aldery cliff but it's a small place on the inside of a bend. It has traditionally been worked for aggregates (it's a limestone quarry) so there is a little loose rock and the right hand side of the crag is reasonably unstable but looking past these little problems what you've actually got is an excellent litle cliff with several mid grade trad routes on, on slabby limestone. Something of an oddity in the PD me thinks! Having been there this weekend I'll conceed that a crag clean-up might be aappropriate as there is chest height nettles all over the place. Several of the walls needs garden and a but of a scrub but all in all it's in pretty good nick. As for the lower-offs, well there are as good as can be expected. If you're trad climbing there anyway you'll be using them as abseil points, instead of lower-offs and if you're capable of climbing up to them, then you should be able to rig a backed up abseiled to test the old tat. 

As far as bolting the "poorer" lines goes to hell with that. This place needs no bolts. I don't see how bolting a poor climb will improve it. 

Other than that I had an excellent day climbing with Simon Holloway and Matt Snell. I lead Ash Tree wall (VS 4c) and avoided as much of the looser rock at the top. Matt and Simon had never been on a climb with loose rock such as this before so it was a learning experience for them to not just yard up on any old block, but to spread thier weight across as much terrain as possible and test everything (It's really not that bad either). Snell then lead the HS 4a next to my route, but had a little bit of a runout start. It had him stumped for a moment but he then just climbed on through it making good progress. He was rather high before he got what I'd have called a "bomber" piece of gear in. I seconded this and enjoyed the climbing, especially the final groove/corner.

We then bugged out (after all its not a long walk to the car) and headed to the Roaches as the weather had made a turn for the best. After a quick solo on Yong (with approach shoes and full packs) to avoid taking the stairs. Simon then lead Left Hand Route (HVD or HS, depending on the guidebook) in his approach shoes, which is a good effort on all accounts. He actually made it look pretty easy and placed good gear all the way up. I've not climbed with him before but I look forward to getting out on some mountain routes with him later this year! Thenm we nipped off to the third cloud but never made it. Instead Snell managed a quick solo of Communist Crack (VS 5a), a route he called me mad for soloing about 3 months before. 

Sadly the rain killed our fun for then on so it was back to the cars and home for all. A good day by all accounts though.

Budget Hill Gear?

After reading a post here, I'll have to say that this has inspired me to try some cheaper climbing gear options. So on a recent trip to asda I picked up a so called "insulated food storer" thus enabling me to carry soup, stew, cassarole or even tarka Dal out onto the hill, the crag or at work with me... and it'll stay hot. I've been jealous of Soames cracking out a giant insulated flask/pot/thing and eating hot soup everytime I sit there with a little bar of something tat resembles birdfood.

Will it work is the big question as far as I'm concerned. I've been pretty dissapointed with several flasks over the years until I received a decent thermos flask the winter before last. This works for about 10 hours, even in winter and provides me with a hit of hot vimto when I need it most. Today is a monday, and I work on a monday but this doesn't stop me from attempting to field test some of this kit out, so at 0740 this morning my flask was pre-heated with boiling water (as per instructions), emptied then, filled with a cassarole that I cooked the day before (hot obviously). 

As flasks go it's around the same size as a normal nalgene water bottle, which considering I carry a 50 litre pack pretty much everywhere shouldn't really be an issue for me. I've been braving all my work gear and carrying it around in my bag all day too. This will assure me that it gets bashed around as I try and make my way through a crowded school. I guess I just need to wait until lunch now. 

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Lunchtime has arrived! And the cassarole is... hot actually. I joke you not, the food is still warm inside the flask. I think pushing it a few hours more might be asking alot, but at the moment it's still warm. I think considering the flask cost me the grand sum of £1.25 that this is a confirmed win for this item of budget hill gear!

BMC Area meeting: The Peak District.

So Wednesday evening I attended my first BMC area meeting, for the Peak District. I have to say that I don't really know what I was expecting as I went there is no real idea of what goes on at BMC area meetings. I'm pretty active in the Peak District (even though I hate to admit it) so I figured that it would be a good idea, plus there was always the chance to get into a good arguement with someone about bolting. 

So what was on the agenda? Well first off I managed to grab a copy of the minutes from last meeting. It all seemed like pretty standard stuff really. Comments on current access in different areas, how the bid for the Roaches was going, Staden Quarry, the Peak Newsletter (which I've never heard of), a call for volunteers and guidebook updates. This meeting was really just a continuation on from that , and it started first and foremost with The Roaches.

So whats going on here? Well currently publicly owned land (The Roaches Estate) manged by the the PDNP (Peak District National Park) is being sold off. As to why this public land is being sold off isn't clear, or at least it's not made clear to me. The point is is that they are selling it and the BMC are not buying it. It's a large estate why many different things to handle (upland environmental managment, recreational needs of various activities and a few archeological sites and conservation areas). Instead there have been bids from 3 different bodies: The National Trust (NT), the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust (SWT) and the Land Trust (LT). At the meeting it was stated that the BMC fully supports the NT in thier bid but also supports the SWT, incase they win I guess. The free radical here is the LT. Now I've never even heard of the LT and I've not idea what they do. From the meeting and a little research on the web I can gather that the trust should probably be referred to and the Land Reclaimation Trust, as this seems to be what they do. They have experience in reclaiming land (brown field sites) and creating recreational areas. You can read all about what they do here, but I'm going to be honest and say that it all feels a little fake. The tustees seem to consist of around 12 Man, all from business and academic backgrounds. They also act as a contracting agency, buying up the land to manage and then employing someone else to manage it for them. As a body most of thier mangament experiences lies in lowland areas and green spaces in town and cities. They don't seem to have much knowledge of how to manage the complex issues of and area such as the Roaches Estate. Added to this there is nothing to stop them buying it, then selling on in a few years.


If it comes down to a choice then I hope the PDNP will choose the NT. This agency has much more experience managing the different interests and the NT receives enogh public money that they can declare it a public area yet again. I guess the safety of a such a great and varied climbing, bouldering and multi-activity area such as the Roaches is a small price to pay for the extortionate carpark charges that they'll envitably put there. 


There was a couple more notes on the Roaches, namely the spread of a bilberry disease in the surrounding heathland which is signposted but several of the people present, dispite passing the signs didn't notice them. Basically don't let your dog run all over the place or yourself go tramping through bilberries, it'll spread the disease. Sadly the only way to treat it is the dig our the roots, burn everything and start over. Also Peregines are back at Hen Cloud this year, and taking advantage of the lack of climbers (currently the chicks are redpointing Borstal Breakout!). So please don't go there and ruin it for others.


The next large issue was Staden Quarry, which as many of you might know has a current ban on climbing. Actually it's more of an agreement not to climb during the planning and decision making process based on the wishes of Paul Hockenhall (possibly his name is incorrectly spelt). In conversation with the BMC he has asked climbers not to get in the way of access or planning as the proposals are considered, in turn he'll allow access for the climbers regardless or the proposal outcome. The BMC has seen right to honour this this agreement based on previous experience. Seeing as we [as BMC members] currently are not getting involved in any action, then all we can really do is watch it unfold. Having a waterbottling plant at the base of the quarry will destroy some of the asthetic appeal of the place, but I personally a not worried. There was 170 letters sent against the plan, and only 1 for it. There is also outside issues like access through Cowdale Village, and actual quarry floor access which are still problmes that need to be addressed. Considering the proposal is going through on next week I don't see there being any problems with access.


The meeting was proud to announce that the "Over The Moors" guidebook is soon to be completed. They even had a front cover to show us! The new guide will cover 120 or so crags on the high moors in the northern and eastern peak. This should be a good guidebook and hopefully will promote some exploratory trips up on the peak if I get a copy of it. Other guidebooks in the pipeline worth a mention are a new "Peak Limestone" book. This will clearly be in direct competition to the Rockfax peak limestone guide that is also coming out soon as well. I'm actually really looking forward to the peak limestone book coming out as I feel is a sorely neglected part of the PDNP.


There was a call for more volunteers to actually help out the with Roaches hut, which is something I'd like to get involved in. Basically it needs someone to pop up once every 2 months or so to go and see if it needs any work doing to it etc. They also need an electrician and a plumber to do some work for them, preferably at a cheaper rate! There was also some excessive gardnering at a couple of the crag. Namely an oak tree at Rivelin Edge and a couple of holly trees at Burbage. The basic message was that this shouldn't be happening. If any gardening needs to take place then get intouch with the local BMC rep for the area.


And then there was a nice debate about windfarms, namely for a very nice chap named Mike Batty and a friend of his on the other side of the room. I felt it nessessary to chip in occasionally with helpful and unhelpful comments. Mike actually had a very good point as some people in the discussion felt that the BMC had an obligation to fall down onf one side of the windfarm debate. It was pointed out (quite firmly) that if the BMC takes a stand on one side of the debate then it can either count for or against us in access argument and agreements. Apparently several people in the BMC have resigned over the issue of windfarm (both for and against them). Mike argued that Windfarms are not the concern of the climber, this point was counter that maybe a windfarm is the concern of the walker, a group which conprise the majority of BMC membership. Sadly there was very few walkers if any at the area meeting. I know that the agenda was more climbing focused, but it seems a little poor show. In the end it was agreed that the BMC peak policy was that windfarms would be decided on a cae by case basis, and currently the BMC has no solid stance on them. Members are entitled to thier opinions though.


For my first area meeting it was a real eye opener into what goes on behind the scenes as regards to gaining and maintaining access to various crags, and what was really surprising was the amount of volunteers that did it. It seems that the PDNP is a tough area to manage.

birthday weekend and accident at black rocks

Normally for my birthday weekend I pick a hard line on a nice crag to do. This year was a little different. I ended up into the Peak District after a a few too many beers the night before for some climbing. Rachel, Sid, Uncle Rob, Toaf and I went to Stanage for the day before heading to Wardlow Mires campsite, next to the Three Stags Head pub. At Stanage we climb Tower Face (HVS 5a) the first route I'd ever tried outdoors. This was back in the day when Toaf had confidently told me that HVS didn't mean it was very hard, after all VD was easy. I learnt some good lessons on that route (like retreating off your gear and abseiling to resuce it). Finally I've been back and done the route! after all these years, and it was still bloody necky. I actually found it quite hard so I don't know how I would have coped if I'd have carried on on this first time round. The upside is that this might class as a retroflash? 

But will he fit through the trap!

Then it was Sid's turn to lead and he took and grotty VS 4c route that provided much amusement for the spectators. Rob then lead fairy steps as Toaf was procrastinating and trying to put off actually leading a route. Fairy Steps is a run out VS that mean if you mess it up you'll suffer a nsaty landing. A great example of head games over technical ability as the holds are good enough. Rob led it in fine style especially after Toaf threatened to rescue him. Sadly the rain drew in so Toaf managed to get out of leading anything and head dropped down into Hathersage for some food at the pub. Then it was off the wardlow mires for a couple of beers at the three stags head.

A dramatic rescue takes place!

Sunday and we finally decided on Black Rocks and in keeping with the style of Sids ascent we found to of the grottiest gully's and chimneys there, Sand Gully (VD) and Deep Chimeny (VD). Both of which provided some great amusement. Then we had a small accident. Sid slipped off Birch Tree wall and decked from about 4/5 metres. He's not got any gear in below him that would have held it, but none of us thought he was going to fall off. Both feet hit the floor flat and with pretty straight legs which I guess must have contributed to his injury. Initially I suspected a bad sprain but once Rach had removed his climbing shoes it became clear that he might have broken something. 

It was action stations striaght away. I don't think anyone ever considered actually calling mountain rescue. Rach ran off to the nearest cafe to get some ice, while me and Rob fed side some sugar and made him comfortable. We packed up the sacks and Rachel and Rob took them back to the car. In the mean time I stayed with Sid and bandaged his ankle up. Worryingly his head started lolling a little so I decided to get moving. I figured that we'd meet Rach & Rob on the way down. In the end walking across the scree proved so hard that I carried Sid.

The pain was enough for him to cope while we got to Macclesfield hospital. I know it's not the closest, but it made the most sense seeing as it wasn't a life threatening injury. That was sunday, and he was out of hospital tuesday, after having his foot operated on. I'm wishing that he'll make a good recovery soon enough, then we can finish Birch Tree Wall.  

Sid, not looking happy.

Sun, sea, sand and loose rock…

Last bank holiday weekend I managed to finally get climbing on the Lleyn Peninsular. I met Soames early Saturday morning and we headed into the Ty’n Tywyn Quarries. Considering the terrible weather report we actually managed to get good weather most of the weekend (the rain mostly fell at night) and I even might have picked up a little tan on the final day. So what did we get up to?

Day 1: Lleyn

A new cliff and a new rock type. Ty’n Tywyn Quarries is a very interesting place to climb. The rock is a micro-granite so it’s really compact. Finding places for gear proved to be a little problematic at time, but if in doubt (run it out!). Considering it is so compact you’d think that it wasn’t loose! Ha-ha you’d be wrong! Over the next couple of day’s me and Soames must have move about a tonne of rock between us. 

My first route was Timex (VD) but don’t let the low grade ease you. Soames lead P1 which was a run out slab but at a nice angle. About 10 minutes and 2 pieces of gear he was clipping an iron stake belay. Pitch 2 was mine and thankfully it had more gear, but it was still a little run out. It took a rising traverse line breaking through a series of overlaps at their weaknesses. Good value for VD but more like HS in reality!

The main slab of quarry 5

The second route was Sanatogen (VD). I took pitch 1 which followed a slab and corner up to a decent belay. The pitch had loads of gear, a little loose rock and good friction. It was worth its grade. Pitch 2 was a little different, and Soames’s lead. The first gear was a couple of opposing microwires before crossing an overlap to gain a slab. The slab was again gearless but pretty good climbing before a decent piece of gear and a hand traverse off to the left, avoiding a horn of rock. Another good value VD probably more worthy of a higher grade.

There’s more climbing to come. The next route was Round the Horn (HVS 5a) and it took an unprotected slab. To an overlap (and some gear) before turning the ‘lap and arriving at the belay stance of Sanatogen. Soames led this pitch as he’d been eyeing it up for a couple of days. I took the sharp end and followed Sanatogen to the hand traverse around the horn, only this time I went straight over it (very scrappily I might add) to top out. Not bad for 5a, but I’m not sure about the grade. 

Next up was our final route of the day (not that we knew it at the time). I’d picked Flat Iron to do, as it went at VS but there was no tech grades. The guidebook indicates that the lack of tech grades on some routes might reflect their nature or their lack of traffic. In the end it was the only route in that area of the cliff that we could be sure of the line, and as for the grade? Well it was closer to MXS 4b/c to be honest. Pitch 1 was for Soames, a delicate diagonal traverse across a slab… with no gear until reaching another iron spike belay (this was pretty eaten away). Found backed it up with a b/s nut and brought me up. The second pitch was nice. The climbing was actually quite good and reasonably technical, that is until I broke my hold pull pulling on it. I thought I was off and as I had no gear in I panicked a little (to say the least). I moved up and sunk 2 decent nuts into a good crack, breathing a sigh of relief and listening to Soames chuckle. Pitch 2 carried on up this ramp to a chimney. The chimney itself actually was really nice to climb, stemming and bridging up it. The gorse bush that was growing in it made it slightly less nice to climb. I should have cut it off to improve the route, but thought that wouldn’t have been sporting. I belayed off another iron spike, backed up with nuts and small cams. The final pitch was a brilliant bit of climbing from Soames, especially considering the nature of the rock he was on. The first rock over onto the slab prove pretty hard but at least gave him opportunity to place a piece of gear. From here the gear rapidly worsened, as did the rock. But it was good climbing. I topped out, glad to be on the bitter end of the rope rather than the sharp end for that pitch.

What a grand day out! Over tea (an excellent tarkha Dahl cooked by Soames) we discussed the new routing potential of the cliff and agreed the best thing to do would be to go back and take advantage of this fact the next day. 

Day2 : Lleyn again!

I woke up at 0515 and it was raining so I rolled over and went back to sleep. We eventually work up and had breakfast waiting for Stuart and Mick to arrive. The plan was set to head straight back to quarry 5 with a couple of new route possibilities in mind. This time I felt it necessary to sport my most garish of lycra for the day climb as the weather looked a little glum. 

On arriving at the quarry Stu and Mick set off up Sanatogen to get a taste for the cliff whilst Soames and I did a nice route called Exlax (HS 4a). This was a good route with decent gear for the crux as you broke through an overlap. The belay didn’t inspire much confidence as it was only a single iron bar, jutting perpendicular from the cliff. Then the second pitch followed a parallel line to Sanatogen, breaking through the overlap as it cross Timex before tackling the largest over hang. Thankfully this had an awesome borehole for gear and as a handhold. Soames’s happy little laugh as he finally clipped a decent piece of gear before pulling floated down the crag top. 

Then it rained.

Looking back along ptich 2

By this time we Soames and I had hunkered down behind a wall and were watching Stuart and Mick bail of the route next to ours in the rain. Luckily it passed quickly and it dried off fast giving us an opportunity to try and put up a new route. Pitch 1 took a slabby arête with better gear higher up to the belay for Sanatogen. It was nice piece and good start to the route. I took pitch 2 which went diagonally up the slab the follow under an inverted staircase overhang before pushing through the overlap and continuing under the next overhang. This was a great pitch to lead as the climbing was relatively easy, but the rock was a little suspect and I wasn’t too sure how much gear I’d get in. As it happened I emptied a third of my rack into the wall and belayed 40 metres away from Soames on the first decent crack I could get more than one piece of gear into (I had 6 in the end). Pitch 3 was Soames and what a good line. He carried on following underneath the overhang before dropping down a little into a corner. Here he could climb the corner and get onto the slab above before fighting his was through some very larger jumbled block that formed the last second. I watched as hand holds crumbled and foot holds slide away, only to find and awesome pitch for me to second. The route is called Interstella Ella named after the space walking on p2 and p3 and Soames new born daughter, Ella. It goes at about VS 4b and will get better with traffic. I think there is probably still time to grab a second ascent!

Soames tackling the crux of pitch 3

We only put up one other FA that day. Before that we sat around to watch Stuart on a 40 metre long E1 5b, which looked reasonably necked. It was a bloody good lead from Stu as the gear didn’t look so good. I sadly watched most of it upside down as I’d managed to trip and fall on the screen, gashing my knee open most spectacularly, and lay on the floor with my leg propped up on a broken spade. 

Our final route was another line we’d spotted the day before. It took a clean slab that wiggled it way up the cliff between Quarry 4 & 5. In the end I named it The Lycra Finish and gave it a grade of HVS 4c. It’s reasonably technical climbing based on the fact that several of the “good” holds are actual larger loose flakes that need to be avoided. Instead you get a run out slab climb with 3 pieces of gear, all of which are a little crappy. It doesn’t compare to Interstella Ella but it’ll appeal the climber who values a psychological lead over a safer and more technical. 

Day 3: Rhoscolyn!

I’ve only climbed at Rhoscolyn once and that was an awesome experience. I did Icarus (HVS 5a) with Mick, late one summers evening as the sun was setting. I was more than happy to get back there. After the new routing we needed to write them up at Pete’s, so it seemed silly to drive back to the Lleyn. This was also my first time writing up a new route so I was pretty happy. 

Rhoscolyn is a beautiful place. Shorter cliff than Gogarth but it still has a big feel to it. The rock is still quartzite which is nice. I really can’t wait for the Gogarth South guide book to come out, but seeing as I’ve been waiting 2 years I don’t have much hope. I’m not sure what’s going on with Ground Up, but they don’t seem to actually be producing guidebooks at the moment. I did 2 routes at this cliff. The first was Symphony Crack (severe). Sea cliffs scare me (bad experience at Gogarth involving high swell) and added to the fact I nearly slipped off the scramble in due to breaking off a hold I was a little on edge. 

A Soames in its natural habitat!

Symphony Crack looks like it overhangs by about 45 degrees. It looks really imposing, like it’ll force you backward when you try and climb it. Don’t be put off by this as it really is an excellent route. Considering it is only a severe on a sea cliff I can’t see why if doesn’t get more traffic! I guess just no-body knows about it. I climbed the route trying to use my arms as little as possible. This meant that I spent most of the route wiggling my back against the wall and commencing some quasi-chimenying motion or stemming wildly. The route has a load of pro all the way up and when climbed well it isn’t pumpy at all. This so be on everyone classic sea-cliff list… and it doesn’t even get a star!

Having done Symphony Crack, it was time for another of Soames’s classic routes, Baggy’s Crack (Diff). We’ve been doing a lot of “lower-grade” climbing this weekend (V.diffs and severes) and most of these routes are not something you’d want to send an aspiring VD leader up. Baggy’s was no different. Just as Soames described, it’s like a cenotaph corner but at a more convenient angle. The hardest part of the route was probably the scramble in, which required soloing above the ocean to then construct a hanging belay. The route itself was great. Good holds, good gear and nice climbing. It is again a fantastic route that needs more stars than it has, especially for its grade.

The cave below the route "electic Blue"

And well that was it climbing wise. I did look at Truant (VS) but in the end decided that it was worth leaving it as something to come back to. Instead we went and sat on the other side of the little zawn and watched Stuart and Mick climbing, even saw an another adder on the walk out. The Lleyn Peninsular seems to be embody what I like in climbing, adventure. I’ve not caught the new routing bug and can’t wait to get back to the Lleyn as there is so much potential. I liked trying the routes, cleaning then onsight and keeping a good ethic about the place. I’ll be throwing a rack of pegs into my bag for the next trip I think though… and a good brush!