Wales, a wet day...

... So knackered from the Lakes I woke up at 0500, made coffee and jumped in my car to head to Soames house for a welsh day trip. We picked up Rob and Tom before heading to our usually stop off, the Rhug Estate for breakfast. I was advise anyone driving up from B'ham area or along the A5 to stop off here for breakfast. So filled up with breakfast and a refill of tea (10% off if you give them your own cup!) we where off, again. I forgot to mention the best thing about the Rhug... they farm bison! No-one believed me for months but them farm bison.

Then it rained.

Even if you don't climb you an probably imagine how much rain hampers climbing. It hampers it alot but that didn't stop us. Instead we travel all over looking for some dry rock. Soames purchased the A55 sport climbing guide and we tried thier but to no avail. Instead we found quite alot of cool rock to climb on but it was wet, then we went round the orme, as I'd not been there. I saw parasella's cave, and was thoroughly dissapointed then the weather cleared up. Sitting in Pete's we needed short routes, on a fast drying rock... stat!

And like magic we ended up on the Slate heading for a couple of routes I'd not done before on Yellow Wall but above Serengeti. My fun for the day started on the scree slope up to the climbs when I managed to not only bring down a load of slate, but also the rather large piece I was currently standing on. Thus ensued a crazy slate surfing experience before I dived off into the scree and sat there watching my slate surf-board explode as it hit the floor. I even got a round of applause but it did little to stop me shaking.

We managed 2 routes on the slate that day. The first was Slippery People (E2 5c) which I thought was aptly named after my recent slide. There was a small point of contention about where the lie went between us based on the bolts in the wall and the differences between the 2 topo's we had with us. In the end I went for the line I could do, which turned out to be the correct one. It's a nice route, with 2 bolts to a lower off. Infact there is an awesome move  just after the first bolt. 

Then I did the Great Curve of the same grade but a far superiour route (in my opinion). It takes a rising curve line, with only 2 spaced bolts on the original line. I started up being spotted by Soames as Rob belayed because although the initial section is ameanable, the first clip is quite high. Then the curve began and I loved it. It was pure slatey climbing (obvious I know but). The line was nice, the holds we spaced and you had to think. I actually bypassed a bolt from another line which you can clip, but I just couldn't clip it. The original route doesn't use it, so I wasn't. Then came a difficult move for the 2nd clip, which I made as there is alomost decking potential if you mess it up! Then the final groove which still had some awesome climbing. I managed to get freaked a few feet below the lower off and placed few piece to protect the final move. I was stll worried until Soames yelled up to try a size 6 wire, that he'd given me. Low and behold it fitted perfectly and I sent the final move with a nervous smile. What a kick as route.


So for a rainy day in wales I'd conclude that it was an awesome time, hell I even got to go surfing! It's nice when you know that people have your back, even if you've run it out 6 metre's above a nice shiny bolt.


ciao