We (me and Dan) went climbing on sunday (after coming back from the alps). We finally did "Via Dolerosa VS 4c" which we've been meaning to do it for ages. It says "finest VS on grit" in the BMC Roaches guide. Now I'm not going to say if it was the finest VS but it certainly was a damn good VS. I took the first 2 pitch togther and Dan took the final pitch (this way we both got a decent bit of climbing in). We both really enjoyed it.
Then we go on The Mincer (HVS 5b). I've lead the final section before (ie the crux then the crack after it) but really wanted a to do the start. Dan jumped on the lead and after a few attempts decided he didn't want to do it. I then took it up. I made the first move and moved swiftly across the slab to get in some other gear. The I threaded the thread with my thinest sling, using my Abolokov thread (I've used this little piece of wire more in summer climbing than winter). I then cammed up the roof and headed out for the crux.
This soon ended with me coming off the crux and ending up dangling a few feet above the floor upside with my nuts trapped in my harness somewhere. After spinning me around Dan lowered me off. I was pretty shaken and greatly thankful to Dan, who's though thought in belaying probably stopped me having any injuries. After taking a rest and drinking another can of pepsi I headed back up. I fell off again (small fall this time) for finally nailing the crux and pulling through. I'll go back and lead it without falling off one day, but I was happy with what I got. Dan seconded it well, apart from getting a little unstuck on a offwidth (his hands are smaller than mine).
Whilst chilling out at the base and shooting some photos of a guy doing The Swan, we heard a rock fall off Valkyrie. This was quickly followed by loads of smashed blocks raining down off valkyrie and the cry of "I'm ok, but my arm is broken". We did the only thing we could do at the time, which wa sgrab the gear and ran to the top. Dan not wearing his harness stayed on the top, and rigged a belay, and I went down to him with enough gear to bring him down on a Y hang. The guys name was Ian. I found him sitting on a ledge, quite obviously in pain. I checked him over as his helmet had been ripped off bby the block. Since there was no blood and no other injuries I set about trying to deal with his arm. He'd broken it above the elbow, and seeing as I had no way to immobilise it, Dan sent down some warm jackets and I stayed with him until a guy from Bolton MRT and Buxton MRT arrived. Eventually he was given morphine and the arm stablised with a sam splint, then he was lowered off with an MRT guy. I stripped out his route.
When it was all over everyone involved, sat around sorting out gear of which everyone had everyones. Only then did I realise he still had my bodywarmer when he went in the ambulance. I've been in touch with his friends, apparently he's had surgury (metal plates) on his arm and is recovering well in hospital. He thanked me for all I did, which wasn't really much at the end of the day.
After a mentally tiring week in the alps then this, I was pretty much wrecked. Its the first accident I've been around and had to deal with, thankfully not on my own, but I don't doubt it won't be the last. All in all I personally was really shaken up by the whole thing, but I was pleased when Dan said he thought we did everything we could for the guy, and our performance ourselves fills him with confidence with our abilities.
I just did what I think any climber would have done in my position.
No comments:
Post a Comment