So braving a pretty bad weather report off me and Rach set to North Wales. The journey there was a little interesting seeing as V festival traffic meant we too a detour round via Bridgenorth, then due to me jabbering on in the car I missed the turning on the A5 to Llangollen. Never mind eh? well we arrived to find Toaf in his car and we started to snuggle down under the boulders, soon to be joined by Tim, Andy and Matt. Believe me when I sat it was cosy under the boulders.
Saturday came around with good weather actually (we were all expecting it to be quite bad) so after meeting everyone at Pete's we ended up at the base of Idwal Slabs. Me and Rach set off up Hope (VD) with me leading the first pitch and Rach snagging the "twin cracks" second pitch. I then did a variation on the third pitch, taking a blank slab section before Rach lead us to the ledge. We then did Enola Gay (E1 5c). It was a pretty contrived route but good climbing. Both Rach and JD (using a sling as a harness) followed. Then Rach did Groove Above (S) with Matt Snell and Me and Toaf attempted a line not in the guidebook. It was pretty run out, not more than solo line but it went at about 5a. It was alright.
After walking down JD and Toaf spent some time bouldering at the Cromlech as the rest of us ate. Then it was time for a night in the Vaynol, so 6 pints later I stumbled back to my tent. Sunday started with Pete's (again!) and then off to Milestone Buttress.
Andy, Snell and Tim lead the Superdirect (HVS 5a) up until the final pitch and then too the Direct route chimney. Me and Rach did the Direct Route (VD) which was awesome. It's been ages since I've done it, but any climb that require jamming most of the limbs in various crags and salmoning up most of the route is fine by me. Rach also loved it, saying it was the most fun she's had on a day's out climbing. Considering our hangovers we headed back then, thus ending another weekend in wales.
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