Sweet, so it's the summer again and that means that we've got long summer evenings to take adventage of, especially if there's no midges! After a couple of people bailing on us it ended up with Stewie, Tim and I at the Roaches for a spot of afterwork fun.
We kicked off with a blast up Chalkstorm (E3 5c). It's the second time I've lead it but this time I decided to do it with gear in the break and nothing else. It's a serious route with some big fall potential and a nasty landing from the top. It didn't matter because I just didn't fall off. It was really warm and sweaty though and I didn't feel 100% sercure on it.
Then we did Saul's Crack (HVS 5a) as Stewie's lead for the evening. He started really well but was done over by the crux and slipped off. He had a bit of fun surmounting the overhang (a perfect example of the advanced technique of "salmoning"). Me and Tim seconded and climbed in it slightly better style. What joy it is to do something on top rope!
I took up the sharp end for my final climb, Rusco's Wall (HVS 5b). I've bouldered the start of this before, but this time I just went for it. I had Tim spot me on the first move and used new boots. The first boulder problem moves it wicked and you gain a good hand hold and some needed gear (poor size 2 peenut!?) then you move up the slightly over hanging wall, placing as much gear as you think you need or can hang on to place. Then follow the final holds to glory. It's an awesome route and doesn't look like it'll be the grade it is from the ground.
I wish climbing after work was always this good, rather than being stuck in a gym!
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