Sport climbing, slate & bolts that unclip?

We'd picked a new spot under the boulders this time due to the wind direction and Tim thinking he might get cold. I assured him he wouldn't and that we'd also stay dry. I did actually rain in the night as I couldn't sleep at all. I always enjoy listening to the rain while I'm snuggled up in my sleeping bag. We didn't make our early start because it was a bitterly cold morning, but we went to Pete's Eats as none of us had the forsight to bring any breakfast (I think we just used it as an excuse to go to Pete's).

I've recently found it so hard to get psyched to go slate climbing. It's because I spent last summer hitting the slate really hard and haven't really paced myself. I feel like I've run out of the routes at my grade. We found ourselves at bus stop quarry as Toaf fancied leading Gnat Attack (E1 5b). As we where there I jumped on Massambula (E2 5b) a route that Uncle Rob had said I should lead. I'll tell you that last time I was on this slab I failed miserably seconding Gnat Attack, vowing to myself that I'd never return. Instead I found myself avoiding my old nemesis and attempting the next route on my tick list.

There was apparently no gear, at least from my view on the ground just 2 bolts and lower off. The thing is is that Mass. is 25 metres long and the first bolt is 11 metres up. Not to worry as it's only about 4c+ at the start, until you get below the bolt, but out of reach to clip it. What you can't see from the ground is a bomber couple of piece of gear... which I'd leaft behind because you can't see them from the ground. A quick throw later and I was off. The climb was awesome and runout enough that I was scared to climb to the lower off.

Then Toaf did Gnat Attack with no problems what so ever. He only used the 2 bolts on the route and flew up it in good style. I wish I had more to say but it was just good climbing. He stripped out the route on the lower off and suggested I lead it too. This oddly had not occured to me as I was just going to second it by I racked up with my 2 'draws and set off. After clipping the first bolt I moved left and past it only to hear Toaf yelling at me to get the next bolt clipped! I could hear a good deal of fear in his voice and I looked down and saw that the flippin quickdraw had unclipped itself. Being 12 metre up on a 5b crux was not wear I wanted to be. Adrenaline fueled I nipped up to the next bolt clipped it and yelled a thanks to Toaf for pointing it out. I hammered up the route as quick as I could so I could get off it.

Tim needed to head off so we all walked out. As we left Toaf jumped on a F6c sport route we found and I couldnt not have a go after he fell off the final move. It just so happened that we got talking to a couple of local old boys who informed us of a load of really awesome sport climbs within our grade. Im actually pretty psyched to go check them out actually so it looks like the single rope and the rack of draws will have to be dug out so a days slatey-sport routing!