Superlight Rocks...

There's been a bunch of reviews written about superlight rocks since they came out. I'd like to say ever since the days of sharing a rack with my friend I've loved these nuts, but that's not the case. When I first found them on his rack I was pretty dubious about them. A single wire? really? Also they had a pretty odd shape. Eventually I started to carry them and then used them regularly. I've been pretty much using them every weekend for the last 2 years and then on all my trips and during winter. So are them any good?

Yes, Yes they are. You get 6 nuts for the weight of a pack of peanuts. That's pretty impressive in itself. But how do they perform?

As with all nuts I think if you carry them then you'll find a place for them on your rack, but I think these come into their own for the mid-grade climber (HVS - E4ish). An extra 6 wires on those long leads can really come in handy. Because they pretty much wild country rocks cut in half any Rock user should be able to find a place for them easily. Having said that they are rocks cut in half, they're actually cut at an angle giving them a little bit of an offset shape. This I think increases they're usefulness. On more than one occasion I've found them to be the only thing that will fit in a placement.

Of course with everything there is a downside. I've found 2 limitations. The first is visible when you inspect the nuts. Sizes 1 & 2 are rated to 4Kn, Sizes 3 to 6 are rated to 6kn. Now seeing as the average fall has been calculated to between 4 - 7kn, you've got the be a little careful where you use these. Having said that I've fallen on them a couple of times and they haven't broken. The second problem is what I'd tend "cable bend". They are pretty prone to having the cables bent through over enthusiastic cleaning. I've always just bent them back but over 2 years of use they have started to show a little wear. Actually I've noticed a wire fray so I'll be replacing this as soon as I can. Also the head of the smallest wire became loose at one point. This was easily remedied with the application of some epoxy.

These little buggers are a great addition to any rack, but as I already said I think the mid-grade climber would benefit most from them. They can take an absolute beating when it comes down to it, I've used them week in week out, and sat on them aiding, hammered them in place with ice axes, fallen on them and god knows what else... and they've survived, then again I've got 1 wire fray from over use and glued back one head. I would still recommend them highly, with the amount of abuse that I give them I'm not surprised they've suffered a little.